Philbert's Chain Salvage Challenge

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Not able to 'like' threads right now, but I like the posts above.

Some PB oil soaking on them for a couple days freed up some of the links

'PB oil' is . . . . ?

Picked up the stuff from Steve NW WI today at a charity firewood GTG. I haven't mentioned other donor names, in case they wanted to remain anonymous, but since Steve already posted photos . . . .

Philbert
 
Not able to 'like' threads right now, but I like the posts above.



'PB oil' is . . . . ?

Picked up the stuff from Steve NW WI today at a charity firewood GTG. I haven't mentioned other donor names, in case they wanted to remain anonymous, but since Steve already posted photos . . . .

Philbert

Does he mean PB Blaster?

Nice thread Philbert. You're good at doing things to help the rest of us! (like the Powersharp threads)
 
good stuff. subscribing.
got a chain in a tranny fluid bath; been there about 6 months. really wrestled with the links, with two pair of pliers, but kinda got them freed up; sorta. i know i shoulda added some acetone to the bath but didn't cause?????
also had immersed a couple of links in some aerokroil but no joy
not sure i'd ever use it but.....
lots of tooth left so eagerly anticipating your results.
 
Thanks Jerry!

This thread needs input on other methods that work, as well as things to stay away from.

And rust is only one challenge for a chain. Imagine what rusty rocks would do!

Philbert
 
I have thought it would be interesting to have a rack (maybe an old bar section) with a shaft on the end with an old clutch rum and sprocket welded on. You could have a hand crank on it to roll over the rusted links to break them free while keeping the chain in tension.
 
I have thought it would be interesting to have a rack (maybe an old bar section) with a shaft on the end with an old clutch rum and sprocket welded on. You could have a hand crank on it to roll over the rusted links to break them free while keeping the chain in tension.

I have from time to time put a rusty chain on a saw, cranked it up, and force the chain around by poking the bottom of the bar tip on a log. Once you get the chain to move, oiling it up is easy and cleaning it up only takes making a cut or two. If a chain is really stuck bad it may be necessary to work a few kinks out with pliers, or sometimes a hammer with the chain tucked in a bar or in the vice with a slight gap between the jaws. I have plenty of old hard nose bars that I can use to get some old chains moving and I'm not too worried about the bars since I won't be using them in wood anyway.

I have also left really bad chains soaking in my parts washer (mineral spirits) sometimes for weeks at a time but I have never found that to be particularly effective at getting stuck chains freed up.

I am not a patient as Philbert when it comes to getting old chains working again.

Mark
 
A number of guys have posted about forcing a chain around a bar, e.g. for cleaning up burred drive links. I have to think that this is also hard on the bar and sprocket.

I think that it was BobL who posted a device to run his chains at slow speeds while he wire brushed them to remove crud ('Search' is down, but I think it was in one of the chain cleaning threads). EDIT: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/cleaning-long-milling-chains.150461/

Some chains probably need multiple steps, which is why this thread could be really helpful as people post different methods.

If it is just 1 or 2 links that are frozen, it might be possible to mechanically loosen them, or even to break and re-spin them, or replace a few links. I am hoping that some of these less viscous solutions can penetrate enough rust to allow some of the solvents an lubricants in.

Philbert
 
I have from time to time put a rusty chain on a saw, cranked it up, and force the chain around by poking the bottom of the bar tip on a log. Once you get the chain to move, oiling it up is easy and cleaning it up only takes making a cut or two. If a chain is really stuck bad it may be necessary to work a few kinks out with pliers, or sometimes a hammer with the chain tucked in a bar or in the vice with a slight gap between the jaws. I have plenty of old hard nose bars that I can use to get some old chains moving and I'm not too worried about the bars since I won't be using them in wood anyway.

I have also left really bad chains soaking in my parts washer (mineral spirits) sometimes for weeks at a time but I have never found that to be particularly effective at getting stuck chains freed up.

I am not a patient as Philbert when it comes to getting old chains working again.

Mark

I would think for cheap, the home made pb blaster penetrant, half acetone, half ATF, would work better than mineral spirits for getting in under rust. then maybe rinsed with mineral spirits or diesel, then run around a chain with baroil.

An electric chainsaw might be useful inside a shop for the "running around" part.
 
I would think for cheap, the home made pb blaster penetrant, half acetone, half ATF, would work better than mineral spirits for getting in under rust.

Zog,

Got any results with this mix?

I am working in the basement, so I have not experimented much with the petroleum-based solutions.

Lots of guys have mentioned ATF. Might be a 'second step' penetrant, for getting between links, after knocking off the heavy surface rust?

Philbert
 
Zog,

Got any results with this mix?

I am working in the basement, so I have not experimented much with the petroleum-based solutions.

Lots of guys have mentioned ATF. Might be a 'second step' penetrant, for getting between links, after knocking off the heavy surface rust?

Philbert

I have only used it on rusty stuck nuts and bolts, etc, like PB blaster, but it works for that. Have to use it a lot working on farm equipment here.


Acetone and either ATF or PSF, power steering fluid, half and half.

I guess to avoid stinky in the basement, you'd need to put the chain in a jar or something, add the stuff, and cork it up for awhile.
 
I have only used it on rusty stuck nuts and bolts, etc, like PB blaster, but it works for that. Have to use it a lot working on farm equipment here.


Acetone and either ATF or PSF, power steering fluid, half and half.

I guess to avoid stinky in the basement, you'd need to put the chain in a jar or something, add the stuff, and cork it up for awhile.

There was quite a bit of discussion of that acetone/ATF mix on one of the other threads on freeing up a rusted up/seized saw. Someone even quoted a scientifically designed test where that mixture did pretty well.
 
There was quite a bit of discussion of that acetone/ATF mix on one of the other threads on freeing up a rusted up/seized saw. Someone even quoted a scientifically designed test where that mixture did pretty well.


Not on topic but an ounce of acetone per 10 gal of gas yields me 3 to 4 mpg. Any additional and it goes back to normal. I am not sure why but I have done this as long as the alcohol has been in the gasoline. People look at me strange when I put a big syringe of fluid in my tank when I fill up.:msp_biggrin:
 
Have to try the ATF thing in the garage. If the chain is frozen it probably won't fit in a jar, but maybe some Tupperware. . . .

Does brand matter? Dextron, Ford, etc.?

If anyone can find that thread, please post a link here.

Philbert
 
I have from time to time put a rusty chain on a saw, cranked it up, and force the chain around by poking the bottom of the bar tip on a log. Once you get the chain to move, oiling it up is easy and cleaning it up only takes making a cut or two. If a chain is really stuck bad it may be necessary to work a few kinks out with pliers, or sometimes a hammer with the chain tucked in a bar or in the vice with a slight gap between the jaws. I have plenty of old hard nose bars that I can use to get some old chains moving and I'm not too worried about the bars since I won't be using them in wood anyway.

I have also left really bad chains soaking in my parts washer (mineral spirits) sometimes for weeks at a time but I have never found that to be particularly effective at getting stuck chains freed up. I am not a patient as Philbert when it comes to getting old chains working again.

Mark
Use a 5% to 6% vinegar soak instead of mineral spirits for 24 hours. Mark, believe me that works. Watch the bubbles do their stuff. After a strong detergent wash and rinse, soak again overnight in diesel fuel. I've never had to use pliers on links after that to loosen them up. I imagine I've salvaged 50 good saw chains this way that were rusted orange and locked up.

Cheers!
 
Thanks for the input WD!

Vinegar then oil: sounds like Italian dressing. Any oregano? Will this work on French and Russian chains as well?

Philbert
Heheheheh. I think so. I salted away about $100 worth of chains today that some loggers gave me for free. Sometimes they forget and leave them out in their trucks in the rain. It doesn't take long for a chain to ice up from rust. I figure the vinegar and diesel fuel costs me about a buck at most. Best part is that you are making something out of nothing. The rusted chains are normally thrown away, and these had almost full cutters on board.

Look at it this way. If I save a dozen or so of these chains, I've saved the price of a new saw.
 
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