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S620

what a beast to work on,should get a motorcycle lift.
how much these things weigh ??
no spark so time to pull it apart and check points..
standard 15 thou and 12 on the coil pickup ?
tnx.
 
what a beast to work on,should get a motorcycle lift.
how much these things weigh ??
no spark so time to pull it apart and check points..
standard 15 thou and 12 on the coil pickup ?
tnx.

Points gap is 20 thou and air gap is non adjustable, the coil is under the flywheel.
Pioneerguy600
 
Points gap is 20 thou and air gap is non adjustable, the coil is under the flywheel.
Pioneerguy600

GOT SPARK !!
mix down the carb and it fired off :)
filled the tank and it's leaking out and i cant see where :(
fuel line in tank looks good but cant see were it comes out,will look harder..
tnx.
 
GOT SPARK !!
mix down the carb and it fired off :)
filled the tank and it's leaking out and i cant see where :(
fuel line in tank looks good but cant see were it comes out,will look harder..
tnx.

Remove the glass sediment bowl and there is a screw in there, remove it and the one outside, then the fuel bowl base, the fuel line from the tank is connected to it. The gasket between the fuel bowl base and the tank often goes bad.
Pioneerguy600
 
A pict of the fuel bowl base,

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IMG_3503.JPG


Pioneerguy600
 
Remove the glass sediment bowl and there is a screw in there, remove it and the one outside, then the fuel bowl base, the fuel line from the tank is connected to it. The gasket between the fuel bowl base and the tank often goes bad.
Pioneerguy600

Thanks Jerry.
almost all the fuel had run out so i started looking and narrowed the area down.it appears to be about a 1/2 in down ,or up in where the arrows in the pic point..i found fresh loose paint in there and when saw tipped so fuel is in that area it leaks.
i did notice toward the front of the tank two supports that have cracks were they attach to the tank like it has been dropped hard..it dont leak from there tho..
the IPL i have,tnx parris,dont show very well how it goes together.looks like everything from starter in has to came off before i can see in there very well.
and shortcuts or suggestions or warnings for getting there ?
tnx.

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You will have to work in from the recoil side, remove recoil housing, flywheel , key, stator assembly, the nuts that hold the fan housing and the fan housing its self, this also holds the crank bearing and seal in it. The fan housing usually needs to be pulled out as its an interferance fit to the main saw body.
Pioneerguy600
 
Oh my,,how do you "pull" the fan housing off ??
cant wack it with a rubber mallet ??
maybe i should try gas tank sealer instead ? :cry:
tnx.

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Oh my,,how do you "pull" the fan housing off ??
cant wack it with a rubber mallet ??
maybe i should try gas tank sealer instead ? :cry:
tnx.

LOL;
I knew this was coming, you need to fabricate a puller that will connect to the four fan shroud screw holes where the recoil bolts to, the push bolt of the puller presses on the end of the crankshaft and draws the fan shroud out of the main body. The big Pioneers are not the easiest saws to tear down. An alternative puller that will pull from the two machine screw holes that are used to hold the stator assembly in place, that is the one I use the most.
Pioneerguy600
 
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Pioneerguy600

Jerry,that's quite the tutorial you are giving here! I will most likely be looking at it when I come to do this myself! I would really like to give you some deserved rep but they say I have to spread more of it around first.Sorry
Lawrence
 
Jerry,that's quite the tutorial you are giving here! I will most likely be looking at it when I come to do this myself! I would really like to give you some deserved rep but they say I have to spread more of it around first.Sorry
Lawrence

The 600 series and the RA are saws that I have done a lot of work on over the years. I took a lot of picts when I restored the RA and they are very similar to the 600 series. I certainly don`t mind helping out anyone wanting to work on this series of saws. The rep thing is likely way over rated.
Pioneerguy600
 
Followed the link.
never seen so much spam,ads and malware on one site.
try to download and it wants to download a VKLC player,i dont want that,just want the file ! :cry:

OK,had to click on a yahoo banner ad toget it..i got it.
tnx.

Glad you got it. But I don't get any of that crap when I go to that site.

Jerry, all very useful info for me getting ready for my RA, and the S620.

Will
 
Glad you got it. But I don't get any of that crap when I go to that site.

Jerry, all very useful info for me getting ready for my RA, and the S620.

Will

Anything you need to know, any questions just give me a shout or post on this thread as I monitor it most evenings. Posting on this thread may help others with their rebuild or repairs.
Pioneerguy600
 
You will have to work in from the recoil side, remove recoil housing, flywheel , key, stator assembly, the nuts that hold the fan housing and the fan housing its self, this also holds the crank bearing and seal in it. The fan housing usually needs to be pulled out as its an interferance fit to the main saw body.
Pioneerguy600

Ok,,,is the crank seal and bearing going to present any problems coming out ?
how about installation of bearing and seal and housing ??

i put arrows on your pic of the holes to use for puller,correct ?

i was only wanting to get this going to hear it run and check it out before making it a bigger project later..after this much teardown it dont look like much more and it would be ready for a paint job :)
i think what i may do now is save all this info,put saw back together so i dont lose any parts and make it a winter project when i can take more time and be able to dry paint over the woodstove..that is how i seem to get my paint to last the best..
So,info on paint and prep is also needed.. I'm sure the other guys watching this will be interested in anything you can give us...
bearing installation also after housing removal,,i miss anything ??

Jerry,the rep thing IS way over rated,the exception is when somebody shares this type of info and knowledge as you do..
thank you.
Ron..



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Anything you need to know, any questions just give me a shout or post on this thread as I monitor it most evenings. Posting on this thread may help others with their rebuild or repairs.
Pioneerguy600

Jerry, I'm starting to work on the 1200 Pioneer finally. I found out that it does have spark. I rigged up the starter good enough for a few pulls. Seems to have good compression, haven't gauged it yet. I found out probably why the saw has been sitting for so long...whoever put the saw together squashed the fuel line against the fitting for the oil line when putting the bar mount on the saw. There's no way fuel could get through that line. You said the 1200 was going to be a loud saw...I doubt if it'll be too loud because somebody put a chrome muffler on it. Someone said this saw came out with a stack on it but I guess it's been replaced unless this was a model correction or something. Someone also put a new chain on the saw and neglected to look at the clutch, it's pretty much toast but the sprocket looks good. Anyway, just wanted to let you know the project's underway.
 
Ok,,,is the crank seal and bearing going to present any problems coming out ?
how about installation of bearing and seal and housing ??

i put arrows on your pic of the holes to use for puller,correct ?

i was only wanting to get this going to hear it run and check it out before making it a bigger project later..after this much teardown it dont look like much more and it would be ready for a paint job :)
i think what i may do now is save all this info,put saw back together so i dont lose any parts and make it a winter project when i can take more time and be able to dry paint over the woodstove..that is how i seem to get my paint to last the best..
So,info on paint and prep is also needed.. I'm sure the other guys watching this will be interested in anything you can give us...
bearing installation also after housing removal,,i miss anything ?
Ron..

Yes you can make a simple puller and use machine screws to connect to those two bosses and the puller bolt to the crank. The seal and bearing will come off with the fan housing, no damage usually. To install the four studs and the nuts will pull the fan housing back in place. Don`t heat the fan housing when putting it back together, it has to slip back inside the main housing , you don`t want it swelled. It is not a really difficult job to get to where you want to go , the first time around may seem like it but after getting the first one done it becomes old hat. If you missed anything else just give me a shout.
Pioneerguy600
 
Jerry, I'm starting to work on the 1200 Pioneer finally. I found out that it does have spark. I rigged up the starter good enough for a few pulls. Seems to have good compression, haven't gauged it yet. I found out probably why the saw has been sitting for so long...whoever put the saw together squashed the fuel line against the fitting for the oil line when putting the bar mount on the saw. There's no way fuel could get through that line. You said the 1200 was going to be a loud saw...I doubt if it'll be too loud because somebody put a chrome muffler on it. Someone said this saw came out with a stack on it but I guess it's been replaced unless this was a model correction or something. Someone also put a new chain on the saw and neglected to look at the clutch, it's pretty much toast but the sprocket looks good. Anyway, just wanted to let you know the project's underway.

Good to hear you are making some headway on the 1200, guess that previous saw mechanic overlooked the reassembly of the lines. LOL. The later 1100 and 1200 had the chromed mufflers on them factory.The early versions had the stack diffuser. If you find you need a few parts I could most likely scare some up and its good to hear you are underway on the repairs.
Pioneerguy600
 
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