Pioneer chainsaws

[p61 western]

Nice 41, looks like it's real strong.

Thank you Paul. Have you had a chance to mess with any saws lately?

 

[2stroke_shaman]

I see a problem .Taking a few thou off the gaskets on the 600a .. Now the true squish at the angle of the piston top is only .012. The top piston to head is .032 but the angle thats close . Pioneerguy ?

 

[rocketnorton]

id think it'd "squish" it up into the cc, where you'd be wantin it to go. kinda thought that since seein one apart. just my $.02.

 

[2stroke_shaman]

Pete ,
The tight spot is only at the arrow in the pic . Plenty of clearance on the angle (.062) and top to head (.032) . But at the arrow (.012). Will probly knock into it when hot . I still want to try it! Whats your thoughts?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Turn some off the piston shoulder, just a 15 min job in the lathe.

 

[rocketnorton]

if you have access to a lathe, do what pg says. I don't. havin a 044 w/that much squish, worked hard, no problems, I woulda tried runnin it.

 

[2stroke_shaman]

I thought that too . If you dont trim the top and angle of the piston the .010 I took off gaskets means nothing . I created a new problem .

 

[pioneerguy600]

if you have access to a lathe, do what pg says. I don't. havin a 044 w/that much squish, worked hard, no problems, I woulda tried runnin it.

I would run it if it was .015 or over, seeing .012 seems a little too tight even for me and I have ran many engines with very tight clearances.

 

[2stroke_shaman]

I do have access to the lathe... Working great by the way.




I could dust off a couple off the piston .

 

[pioneerguy600]

Its much easier to turn the piston. We used to mount and turn the head down also but it means making a fixture plate to mount it in the 4 jaw. A complete new head with a slight domed combustion chamber really works great on them but heat dissipation becomes an issue.

 

[2stroke_shaman]

This is a loud toy .Im game for cutting piston . Take .005 to .008 off the angle. Squish it again.

 

[Cookie]

Played with an old Oregon bar last night. Chemically stripped it and sanded with 320. Then gun blued the tip. Seemed to turn out ok

 

[p61 western]

Played with an old Oregon bar last night. Chemically stripped it and sanded with 320. Then gun blued the tip. Seemed to turn out ok View attachment 632683

Hard to tell, but sure looks like a chisel file or square filed chain to me? The bar looks really good as well.

 

[Cookie]

Hard to tell, but sure looks like a chisel file or square filed chain to me? The bar looks really good as well.

Bran new stihl RS CHAIN.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

What did you use to strip it? I'm getting ready to do one myself. Was going to use an orbital sander, but chemically stripping it sure sounds easier and probably a little cleaner in the long run, too.

 

[Cookie]

I had some antique furniture stripper on the bench, worked ok with some elbo grease and a green scotchbrite. I’m sure there is a better produce to use tho.

 

[Cookie]

Question. The p41 is going back together here. P62 jeff sent me a great p/c, but I’m not sure what ruined the last motor. Are crank seals available threw the Poulan p/n still? Available anywhere ? Or should I slap it together and vac test it after? Thx guys

 

[fossil]

Question. The p41 is going back together here. P62 jeff sent me a great p/c, but I’m not sure what ruined the last motor. Are crank seals available threw the Poulan p/n still? Available anywhere ? Or should I slap it together and vac test it after? Thx guys

The seals are SKF CR 5606, or National (Timken) 472705 both double lip nitrile

Pretty common size 9/16"" shaft, 1" case bore. There are likely others who make it as well.

The Poulan seals have gone obsolete.

I would definitely pressure and vac test it. They can leak elsewhere. It's very common to have a cracked carb adapter / reed block on those.

 

[Cookie]

The seals are SKF CR 5606, or National (Timken) 472705 both double lip nitrile

Pretty common size 9/16"" shaft, 1" case bore. There are likely others who make it as well.

The Poulan seals have gone obsolete.

I would definitely pressure and vac test it. They can leak elsewhere. It's very common to have a cracked carb adapter / reed block on those.

It did have a heavily cracked reed block. I’ve replaced it with one that has a very slight hairline on the inside. It’s the best I had of the 3 on the bench. I think I’ll put it together and go from there. I’ll Order some seals also. Thx fir the p/n

 

[Modifiedmark]

It did have a heavily cracked reed block. I’ve replaced it with one that has a very slight hairline on the inside. It’s the best I had of the 3 on the bench. I think I’ll put it together and go from there. I’ll Order some seals also. Thx fir the p/n

You should grind that crack out of that block then fill it with JB weld to keep it from cracking more, at least in that crack.