camel2019
ArboristSite Guru
looks like its supped to go from somewhere to the coil then to the switch. don't have OHM meter yet probably should grab one
Pioneer chainsaws
- Thread starter WesternSaw
- Start date
-
- Tags
- operator manual
Help Support Arborist Forum:
looks like its supped to go from somewhere to the coil then to the switch. don't have OHM meter yet probably should grab one
It looks like the wire goes from the on/off switch to the terminal block on the points and from there to there to the coil so the on/off switch would ground out the points. Since you have spark, the issue would seem to be from the switch to the points block. The points block is behind the flywheel.
You should be able to pick up a cheap multimeter at Canadian tire for less than $20.
If you do manage to pick one up, set the multimeter to ohms and connect it between the wire at the coil (disconnect the wire from the coil) to a ground point on the saw like the cylinder. Switch in the off position, the meter should read zero ohms meaning the circuit closed and the saw should shut off. Switch in the on position should read infinite ohms meaning the circuit is open and the saw should have spark.
Yotaismygame
Juiced Saws #GetJuiced
Little bored at work right now, who wants to talk about porting P-series pioneers? I've got a P62 and P41 I think would be fun to port. I can do anything and everything involved in porting now. Anyone have some good tips for a power boost on these saws? I'm thinking cutting the base/ and squish band or pop for starters? 180-200 psi p62 could be fun.
hillwilliam
ArboristSite Operative
No secrets here:
I believe my 655BP is at 95 and 119. The squish is about .024". That's stock porting - I didn't mess with the internals, other than a little case matching and shining up the ex. port. It would have been easy to widen the ex. port, but I left it alone. It runs like, well, a 655BP.
My P52 has a squish of .020", and I think it's at 95 and 118. The ex. port is plenty wide, and then some w/ the divider web long gone. It's strong and will run right with my 655 in a 20" log. I had a pop-up piston in the previous iteration of that saw, but the current version turned out stronger.
I put together a P42 just to have a small saw to run over the winter. The squish is a porky .027" w/o a gasket. Ported it to 97.5 and 118 without bothering to change the size or shape of the ports much, and it's pretty snotty.
I'm rebuilding/ building a P45 now. Just waiting for bearings. I may go with the 96.5 and 119 where I had it before, unless I find a better idea. I'm getting a squish of .025" w/o gasket with the new top end. I'd like to get it down to about .019. I checked with the two machine shops in this rural area, both with good people and good reputations. Not having cut the base of a saw jug before, they both figure they'd have to charge me a lot for all their set-up time. So I'm stuck with .025" for now.
I don't know what actual compression psi any of my saws have at this altitude. I'm not worried about the number, anyway.
Yotaismygame
Juiced Saws #GetJuiced
I’ve got my machine shop trained and they do excellent work at very reasonable prices. They will cut the base and band for under $80. Most of the cost is in the tooling they have to make. If I brought in another of the same cylinder it would only be about $20 for a cut. If you want to send me the cylinder I would take it in. You just pay all shipping and shop fees. I don’t mind. They cut pop ups for $25. They also tig weld so I would assume could add a pop up. Haven’t needed that done yet though.
High 90s for an exhaust port is pretty high. Never ported a saw with less than 98. But they run good?
High 90s for an exhaust port is pretty high. Never ported a saw with less than 98. But they run good?
Yotaismygame
Juiced Saws #GetJuiced
Could always drop the cylinder an extra .020” and make a pop up or cut the squish band. Then bring the ports back to near stock. Would gain about 20-30 compression.
camel2019
ArboristSite Guru
here's my 620 I think I'm going to leave this one in its "work clothes" and not repaint it 
camel2019
ArboristSite Guru
here's my super 620 its going to get a repaint because someone had some fun with a rattle can 
Hell, I like that one better!
camel2019
ArboristSite Guru
its been well used that's for sure but the piston is great in it. the normal 620 needs a new crank(got one on the way) and both need their crabs rebuilt and most likely fuel lines replaced and the felts in the sediment bowls have seen better days but that seems to be common on these saws.
im going to post pics later of my 1074 I still needs an air filter cover air filter and the seal but I did have a bar that fits it
i have 1074/p26 stuff. should fit 1073. green covers, tho.
hillwilliam
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks for the offer - I'm gonna think hard about sending you the jug. I think the bore is 50 mm, the same as some 372s, if that helps with the tooling.
I don't think I'll get too carried away w/ compression on this saw, since I never found a new crank for the rebuild. And I have blown a big-end rod bearing once. Also, just my experience, but it seems a Pioneer can run really strong w/o crazy compression, even at 10,000'. Maybe due to the long crankcase compression duration of a reed valve saw?
That said, an old friend nearby is building a 372 w/ ceramic bearings, high compression, etc., and it would be kinda fun to build a P45 that's faster.
Also, just one goober's experience, but on my last couple of P52 builds, I started with the exhaust somewhere around 100 and incrementally worked my way up and stopped at 95. I did test cuts and made gains in power/ speed at each stage while still maintaining plenty of torque. I'll not likely find my data from those tests, but that's pretty much it. Maybe you'd have the patience to do a similar experiment. Wish you could try my hillbilly hotrods and judge for yourself. They do run.
Thanks again for the offer.
Yotaismygame
Juiced Saws #GetJuiced
I appreciate the info. Whenever I get around to it ill play with it and see what happens. I don’t have any problem getting your cylinder cut if you decided you want to. Just a base cut is only about $40. They might have a mandrel cut to size already. Can’t remeber what size cylinders I’ve had them cut already.
hillwilliam
ArboristSite Operative
Gonna send the jug out to you. PM coming.
p61 western
ArboristSite Guru
I will look through my stuff. I think I have a crank for you if you want to build that saw again. If I remember right that was quite the hot rod.
hillwilliam
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks for checking; I appreciate it. Turns out the ID of the main bearings is 1/16" bigger than for other/ older P-series because of a shoulder. Looks like the saw will be apart for a while more, so if a stronger crank turns up in the meantime, that would be great!
F-M tree
ArboristSite Member
Any chance I could get the workshop and parts manual for a stihl 020av, 020t, 066, 044,192t , and 032 av with elec quickstop? My first ever post on this site, thanks in advance!!
Drptrch
Addicted to ArboristSite
You posted in the “Pioneer” thread
Here’s the “asking pot”
The Beg for Manuals Thread
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sh...he-Beg-for-Manuals-Thread.68615/&share_type=t
Erik
hillwilliam
ArboristSite Operative
This sure is a good community we have here. Right quick, I had two guys I've never actually met offering assistance with what I need. I'm glad I'm able to contribute a little something on occasion too.
p61 western
ArboristSite Guru
Yep it sure is. You helped me with good info, and a spike. Your responsable for getting me grinding on these p series lol. I have the newer style crank, and I think the older as well. Let me know what you prefer. The newer crank has a p45/455 piston on it, and your welcome to that as well.
Similar threads
- Locked
