Pioneer chainsaws

[lil171]

Thanks Lou. Here is a picture I saved from online of the same bar as mine. I hope this clears things up a bit for you. Yes, I will be taking it in when I head to the end of the city that has a supplier.

 

[fossil]

@ fossil; Just so I understand... There are no teeth on the nose of that bar? Similar to a solid nose?

@ lil171; If it were a sprocket nose (what I am accustomed to) the wrong gauge chain would actually rise and fall when the drive links didn't properly engage with the spikes of the rotating nose sprocket.
It should do the same to a lesser degree if a different gauge than the spur sprocket of the clutch.
My FarmSaw spur sprocket is in considerably worse shape than is yours... I guarantee it has never run the wrong pitch. My FarmSaw is now for emergency use only. I have both 20 and 24-inch bars that fit that saw, I won't swear they are the same gauge. She treated me well for many years. I purchased it new in 1979 without a chain break. My first saw was a 16 inch Skill... if I'd found a cliff in New Mexico it would have fallen to its death!!! One time the FarmSaw ignition failed me. A few hours in the oven @ 200° resurrected the coil.

Lou


I strongly suggest you invest the time and gasoline required to take the saw and bar to a local logger supply retailer. It will remove all doubt and you will almost certainly get the correct chain; pitch, gauge, and length.

Yes, It's just a roller with no teeth so any pitch would work. Not sure how gauge specific they were.
I believe they were the first bar nose out that wasn't a hard nose bar. They do not rob as much power as a hard nose bar.

If you look at the design you can see a gap between the bar and the roller tip. They were prone to detailing the chain when limbing if a small branch got in there so the toothed sprocket nose came about which eliminated that issue.

The roller nose bars are still built by Cannon and maybe others for race saws as the roller tips have the lowest power robbing drag.

They are desirable as a bar to add to a vintage saw for period correct plus the "cool" factor. I have a few even though I am far from "cool".

 

[pioneerguy600]

@ fossil; Just so I understand... There are no teeth on the nose of that bar? Similar to a solid nose?

@ lil171; If it were a sprocket nose (what I am accustomed to) the wrong gauge chain would actually rise and fall when the drive links didn't properly engage with the spikes of the rotating nose sprocket.
It should do the same to a lesser degree if a different gauge than the spur sprocket of the clutch.
My FarmSaw spur sprocket is in considerably worse shape than is yours... I guarantee it has never run the wrong pitch. My FarmSaw is now for emergency use only. I have both 20 and 24-inch bars that fit that saw, I won't swear they are the same gauge. She treated me well for many years. I purchased it new in 1979 without a chain break. My first saw was a 16 inch Skill... if I'd found a cliff in New Mexico it would have fallen to its death!!! One time the FarmSaw ignition failed me. A few hours in the oven @ 200° resurrected the coil.

Lou


I strongly suggest you invest the time and gasoline required to take the saw and bar to a local logger supply retailer. It will remove all doubt and you will almost certainly get the correct chain; pitch, gauge, and length.

Havn`t been following this thread as close as I should lately, very busy time of year for me. Lou, its not the gauge that determines the number of drive teeth on a sprocket its the pitch, I know you already know this so maybe just edit out the gauge for pitch.

The clutch drive drum will have the pitch stamped on the back side of it, has to be pulled off to see it.

 

[lil171]

Thanks for the info on the clutch pitch on the drum.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Saw chain is one of my greater interests concerned with chainsaws, I lived and breathed the parts that make up a chain, building a race chain link by link , preset, joiner, left and right cutter , thinning ,shapes and angles are the most fun one can have with chain. I have handled all the old Pioneer chain they made and most other makers chain as well. The members have mostly been correct on their posts while helping you out, they are all great fellas and fine assets to this thread and site.

 

[Lou]

Fixed, thank you, Jerry, you meant what I knew...
Just shy of 70 and still cannot multitask. Too many things banging around in my old processor.
Lou

 

[pioneerguy600]

Fixed, thank you, Jerry, you meant what I knew...
Just shy of 70 and still cannot multitask. Too many things banging around in my old processor.
Lou

I am in the same boat, the stuff I once knew is getting more difficult to get out of my brain in the correct order, its like I have contacted a case of dyslexia. When you guys see a post by me that is incorrect please bring it to my attention so I can correct it, I would like to keep the info in this thread as close to correct as possible.

 

[fossil]

@Acornhill

Here's vid of the P41H. I did at least find a piece of wood a little larger that I could close to bury a 20" bar in.

The saw is wearing an 8 pin rim as that's what the repair manual said it came with and an Oregon semi chisel chain.

The wood is maple and it a crotch. You can see it's chucking half noodles and half chips.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Thanks Lou. Here is a picture I saved from online of the same bar as mine. I hope this clears things up a bit for you. Yes, I will be taking it in when I head to the end of the city that has a supplier.

Whatever you do, don't let em talk you out of that bar.

 

[lil171]

Just out of curiosity, is there something special with that bar, or are they just hard to find and come by? Thanks for your input.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Aside from being very, very cool, they're vintage bars and desirable by most who appreciate and seek era and model accuracy in maintaining originality for saws that used them. They also add a serious 'cool factor' to older saws that may not have offered a roller nose option.

And they're..., well...., very, very cool. LOL

 

[Huskybill]

There’s a guy selling the roller nose bars for $10 each on eBay but there for partner saws do they interchange with pioneer?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Partner-chainsaw-15-roller-bar-058-gauge-3-8-pitch-/192926429463

 

[fossil]

There’s a guy selling the roller nose bars for $10 each on eBay but there for partner saws do they interchange with pioneer?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Partner-chainsaw-15-roller-bar-058-gauge-3-8-pitch-/192926429463

The rear set of holes on that bar looks very close to a large Husky mount (Oregon D009) which Oregon says is a fit for the R series Partners.

The large husky mount adjuster holes line up with the Pioneer larger P series (Farmsaw to P62) holes. The oil holes are a little high on the D009 bars but can be opened up to work,

You can do a lot with a file and a grinder.

Hard to tell from a photo though.

If I was looking, I'd take a chance at that price.

 

[pioneerguy600]

That HO 10 mount pattern has me drawing a blank right now, don`t remember handling one of those but that packaging is of the last few years Partner was in business for itself.

 

[Pokey493]

Thanks Lou. Here is a picture I saved from online of the same bar as mine. I hope this clears things up a bit for you. Yes, I will be taking it in when I head to the end of the city that has a supplier.View attachment 738860

Here are some pics from the sales brochure I got with my P25 in 1973.

 

[Huskybill]

Bar mounts,

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...e39f46cf37dbe4a088256e0d0051dd49?OpenDocument

 

[fossil]

I think the oddest Pioneer bar mounts I've seen is the one on the 3200.

 

[Huskybill]

The rear set of holes on that bar looks very close to a large Husky mount (Oregon D009) which Oregon says is a fit for the R series Partners.

The large husky mount adjuster holes line up with the Pioneer larger P series (Farmsaw to P62) holes. The oil holes are a little high on the D009 bars but can be opened up to work,

You can do a lot with a file and a grinder.

Hard to tell from a photo though.

If I was looking, I'd take a chance at that price.

Since I have older partners these older roller nose bars would look unique on the older saws at $10 each for a new bar and nose it’s worth it.

 

[fossil]

They sure will. I bought some new Sabre roller nose bars for MAC 10 series. So nice I haven't used one.

 

[lil171]

Havn`t been following this thread as close as I should lately, very busy time of year for me. Lou, its not the gauge that determines the number of drive teeth on a sprocket its the pitch, I know you already know this so maybe just edit out the gauge for pitch.

The clutch drive drum will have the pitch stamped on the back side of it, has to be pulled off to see it.

@pioneerguy600
Thanks for the tips. I just took the cover off my saw a minute ago, and the only markings that were on the inside by the sprocket were the following:
'PL23 J8' (on the top), and directly opposite on the bottom was '079'.
Do these numbers reflect to anything you may possibly know, or can anyone else with one of these please confirm pitch. Due to work and such, I will not be making it to my saw shop for a couple of weeks. Thank you again for your patience with me and all of your help.

And on another note. Since this is my first 'big' saw and the fact it is older, is it me, or are they louder than their new counterparts. I just ran it again, and it sure is loud.