Do you have the sprocket/clutch drum off?
Pioneer chainsaws
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No, sorry I do not. I do not have the proper tool to do so.
After checking out the pic on page 690 of the drive sprocket and chain, that is a 3/8" pitch chain and the sprocket on that drum should be a 7 tooth which was Pioneer part number 474447. A .325 pitch drum would have 8 drive teeth and would be Pioneer part number 474417. These drums are the star type drives, the floating rim sprocket type drums were an optional system that did not come as a stock item on these saws, they could be added on by the dealer or purchased and installed after the saws were sold .
You are welcome, hope you eventually identify just what model saw you have there but it looks fine just the way it is.
Sorry for thsi new question, but this is regarding a Pioneer 3/8" saw chain. I just picked up a chain grinder and want to sharpen my chains I have here, but I did not know the correct angles to use to sharpen my Pioneer Chainsaw chain. Would it be the same as my Oregon 3/8 LP chains. Set grinder for 30 degrees(cutter angle) and the motor at 60 degrees(as I pull teh grinder down to sharpen) as standard, or what is best for these? Sorry I am absolutely new to sharpening with a grinder, as I just got it yesterday, and hope my question makes a little sense for those more knowledgable than I. Thank you.
Have a look on the Oregon site at their LPX chain and go with that
I should have asked you, chisel or semi chisel?
I have a Northern Tool, Oregon 511 clone. I use those numbers (30/60) for all chains regardless of manufacturer. I have no Pioneer chain. If I did I'd likely put it aside where it won't corrode because it may be worth additional money some day.
I researched many many threads here and IMO the majority of people that grind chains use those numbers.
My grinder uses the 3/16" wheel for normal 3/8 chain and the 1/8" wheel for 3/8 low profile (I have no 325). I've flattened my 1/4" wheel to grind my rakers (040±). There is probably a greater danger of kickback but the way the chains cut more than outweigh that danger, again IMO.
Lou
Want to take on an impossible mission? Find a 040 raker tool! Anything except 025 is most difficult.
I researched many many threads here and IMO the majority of people that grind chains use those numbers.
My grinder uses the 3/16" wheel for normal 3/8 chain and the 1/8" wheel for 3/8 low profile (I have no 325). I've flattened my 1/4" wheel to grind my rakers (040±). There is probably a greater danger of kickback but the way the chains cut more than outweigh that danger, again IMO.
Lou
Want to take on an impossible mission? Find a 040 raker tool! Anything except 025 is most difficult.
I purchased the little red barn piston for my P41 build and it comes with cerclips that have the little ears on them. Whats the odds the original cerclips are going to fit the AM piston? I also bought a pair of the 5606 seals, base gasket, oil pump gasket, exhaust gasket and carb kit. Once the rest comes in I should be ready to start rolling on this project.
Check the clip grooves in the aftermarket piston and compare them to the OEM piston before trying to fit the used OEM clips. It's been a long time since I've been in one of those saws but I remember those clips being pretty thin.
Ok. So here it is. It was bothering me of what chain this unknown model Pioneer saw should use/take. It came to me with a 3/8" chain on it, and would believe that this is the way the gentleman I got it from had run it. Yes, I did try a few cuts, but the chain was dull. Regardless, as it was bothering me, I did the unthinkable. I attempted to remove the clutch for some pictures for you to hopefully ID what exact chain I should be using on this saw. It came off rather easy, and I am not scared to do it anymore! I will also type the info here of both the sprocket, and bar (not pictured, but all marks will be given below) to help in identifying it. I thank you all so far for the generous help, and I apologize for the reluctency to remove the clutch from the saw earlier. With that said, here are the pictures. In the pictures with the chain on the sprocket, the chain is 3/8". I am thinking I may need a .325, and hope you can please clarify that for me. Thank you.
Marks on the sprocket are : P1 23 J8 079
Marks on the roller nose bar : 474254
16 058
43
PIONEER
Marks on the sprocket are : P1 23 J8 079
Marks on the roller nose bar : 474254
16 058
43
PIONEER
Forgot to add if someone here can identify the above set-up and can please tell me what chain I should get (size/gauge, and DL) would also be greatly appreciated. The saw again has a Pioneer P26 on the recoil, Pioneer 1074 on the chain cover, and Pioneer P25 on the air filter cover. That is why I am not 100% sure what make or model it really is as the id plate on the bottom was also missing...
From the Oregon site I gather I need a 66DL chain in .058. However, that number of DL given on the Oregon site also shows a 7 tooth sprocket, and mine is 8 tooth. Thank you again.
From the Oregon site I gather I need a 66DL chain in .058. However, that number of DL given on the Oregon site also shows a 7 tooth sprocket, and mine is 8 tooth. Thank you again.
I'd take it all to my local stihl dealer. They can figure out what you need and cut you a very high quality chain.
It appears to me that that clutch spur drive is an aftermarket one, it does not look like a Pioneer original, the markings on it does not correspond to Pioneer literature also. The bar does have a Pioneer number but it does no correspond to any of my bar charts. I have encountered this many times over the years and my solution was to try a length of chain in either 3/8 or .325 and see what fits, only making guesses any other way.
If that is a 3/8" pitch chain wrapped around the spur sprocket, it does not fit right, try a .325 chain on it and see how the drivers fit.
Had you taken it to a local dealer you would by now have the correct pitch, gauge, number of drive links, a working chain, and the sprocket would still be installed. You could have actually cut wood 15 days ago!!! I don't see what you saved by continuing to post here!
If you must find one person that agrees with your opinion, Jerry (pioneerguy600) is a good source.
The poster clearly gained enough confidence to actually remove the clutch drum in an attempt to acquire additional knowledge about his situation and move as far forward as he could on his own. I would respectfully suggest that what he may not have saved in time he likely gained in experience.
And maybe he just felt more comfortable interacting here rather than with the 'local chainsaw store'..., until now, perhaps.
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