Pioneer chainsaws

[cjcocn]

Thanks guys.

I'll have to check on that P60. I ended up with over 90 saws and there are more that I have to go and pick up, so I am not sure right now. Once the dust settles I will make a list of saws so that I can keep it straight.

Here are some pics that I could use some help on:

Pic 1. This is a HC, correct?

Pic 2. This is an RA?

Pic 3. If so, then so is this?

Pic 4. So what is this model?

Pic 5. And this one with a square brown cover?

Thanks for any help on ID'ing these ones. I will have many more questions for you fellas as I time goes on.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Just get my RA back together and running after carb rebuild/gas tank flush. Running good!....nice score!

 

[cjcocn]

Thanks for sending me the IPLS! I really appreciate that. An opportunity came up for me purchase what appears to be a complete set of Mculloch IPLS and service manuals. So I certainly hope I can help others out in the same fashion.

What happened with these IPLs and Manuals? I just got a couple of Macs and have zero service manuals for these saws (sorry to go off topic).

Thanks

 

[pioneerguy600]

Thanks guys.

I'll have to check on that P60. I ended up with over 90 saws and there are more that I have to go and pick up, so I am not sure right now. Once the dust settles I will make a list of saws so that I can keep it straight.

Here are some pics that I could use some help on:

Pic 1. This is a HC, correct?

Pic 2. This is an RA?

Pic 3. If so, then so is this?

Pic 4. So what is this model?

Pic 5. And this one with a square brown cover?

Thanks for any help on ID'ing these ones. I will have many more questions for you fellas as I time goes on.

Nice bunch of old IEL`s and Pioneers.
Pict #4 is the later RA.
Pict # 5 looks like a a 3071, does it have electronic ignition?
Pioneerguy600

 

[cjcocn]

Nice bunch of old IEL`s and Pioneers.
Pict #4 is the later RA.
Pict # 5 looks like a a 3071, does it have electronic ignition?
Pioneerguy600

Jerry

Thanks for the ID on the saws!

I will have to go out and check on the 3071, but it is raining out and my new saw storage shed doesn't have any lights in it. I hope to get back out there and start making a list this week.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Jerry

Thanks for the ID on the saws!

I will have to go out and check on the 3071, but it is raining out and my new saw storage shed doesn't have any lights in it. I hope to get back out there and start making a list this week.

The 3071 was Pioneer`s first electronic ignition chainsaw, it has a strange 47.6 mm bore .
Pioneerguy600

 

[Brmorgan]

Well, Chris, ya finally got that Pioneer project saw you've been wanting! And one for each of the rest of us too, by the looks of it. Nice haul.

Just noticed this'll be my 1000th Post. Seems like I just joined up.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Just get my RA back together and running after carb rebuild/gas tank flush. Running good!....nice score!

I hope that saw finally gets to running right for you, it will show its power and torque if the comp is good and the carb set right. What type of chain you running on it? They usually had chipper chains back then but the newer chisel type makes them cut much faster. I change the runners that I cut with over to Stihl 404 full comp chisel that I square file by hand,outside in method, do the chips ever fly.
Pioneerguy600

 

[mtfallsmikey]

I hope that saw finally gets to running right for you, it will show its power and torque if the comp is good and the carb set right. What type of chain you running on it? They usually had chipper chains back then but the newer chisel type makes them cut much faster. I change the runners that I cut with over to Stihl 404 full comp chisel that I square file by hand,outside in method, do the chips ever fly.
Pioneerguy600

Are there any bars on the market that fit the RA without mods? Mine has 3/8"chain...BTW Jerry, dunno why, but my RA seems to like the 25:1 mix better than 40:1

 

[Brmorgan]

I'm pretty sure that the newer (so to speak) Pioneer mount is the same. The bar on my RA was originally on the 1967 Pioneer 1450 that was here when I bought the house. It fits the mount just fine, though the oiler holes extend slightly past the oiler channel in the saw. The bar shim plates block it off though so it doesn't leak. I should point out that it looks like the oiler holes were drilled out to ovalize them, but I can't be sure. To extend my theory, the bar on my late-70s P41 appeared to fit the 1450 just fine, though since I never got that saw running I never actually used that setup.

 

[Wildman1024]

looks like fun cjcocn

I see your 1073 (or 4) is missing it's plastic top cover....seems to be contagious.

Does anyone have a new recoil spring for a 1073? I think I put mine in backwards when I cleaned it up the first time...

:newbie:

Doesn't parts from the p28 interchange to that saw??? If so I have a complete running p28 in good shape I may get rid of. I haven't decided yet. Only problem with saw is 1 striped bar stud. I may keep it though if its an easy fix

 

[pioneerguy600]

Are there any bars on the market that fit the RA without mods? Mine has 3/8"chain...BTW Jerry, dunno why, but my RA seems to like the 25:1 mix better than 40:1

If that is so then you should check the compression, it may be down and the oil helps keep it up a little. I get a lot of correspondence saying that the old saws ran ok years ago on 100 lbs compression and some even ran a little lower but the oil used back then was thicker and mixed to a heavier ratio so I think the oil may have contributed to that reasoning.To days oil mixed at 40:1 will protect the moving parts very well but may not contribute to boosting the compression on worn rings and pistons. I could be all wrong on this but its just my observations especially on older vintage saws.
There is a couple of bars made today that come close to fitting but will require some mods to work, we discussed it further back in this thread and the makers and numbers were posted but I don`t have them here right now. NOS bars come up on eBay occasionally and they are the best bet as the new bars don`t have the same dimensions and look out of place on the older saws. The new bars will work and usually have sprocket tips but don`t have the same depth so they look skinny if you know what I mean. LOL
Pioneerguy600

 

[gmax]

Jerry, Do you have any trouble finding new chain sprockets for the Pioneer 620?.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Jerry, Do you have any trouble finding new chain sprockets for the Pioneer 620?.

No problem to find them in 3/8 pitch, the 404 ones are getting a little scarce.
Pioneerguy600

 

[Cerran]

Still looking for the Yoke Clip or a fix for a pioneer farmsaw so that the recoil starter works again. The saw itself works great.

Thanks for any help in advance.

 

[husqvarmit]

Still looking for the Yoke Clip or a fix for a pioneer farmsaw so that the recoil starter works again. The saw itself works great.

Thanks for any help in advance.

I purchased one of those for mine along with a recoil spring just a few months ago from wallenberg

Ph#1 800 225 4756


varmit

 

[Jacob J.]

Wallenberg is a good outfit to do business with.

 

[WesternSaw]

Still looking for the Yoke Clip or a fix for a pioneer farmsaw so that the recoil starter works again. The saw itself works great.

Thanks for any help in advance.

Not sure if I mentioned to you before Cerran,you might want to ask propliner (Brendon) if he has one.
Lawrence

 

[propliner]

Farmsaw fix

Cerran, if you go back a number of pages we detailed a fix for these yoke springs using one from a P20 series. There was a service bulletin posted outlining the procedure. If this interests you, I have the spring for the mod. It is a more sturdy spring and works just fine.

On another note, I finally got my P41 Western all disassembled and stripped, and all the magnesium parts primed with zinc chromate primer. This stuff really sticks. Prior to priming I washed the parts with an aluminum etch solution and used alodine as a rinse. It turns the metal a dull grey. I've purchased a good Sherwin-Williams two part paint and hope to spray a few pieces this weekend.
When Jerry says that the paint stripping is labour intensive, he's not kidding. I probably have 25 hours into that alone. It's a slow project but I want to do it right. I'll post my progress and put a photo up tomorrow.

Brendon.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Cerran, if you go back a number of pages we detailed a fix for these yoke springs using one from a P20 series. There was a service bulletin posted outlining the procedure. If this interests you, I have the spring for the mod. It is a more sturdy spring and works just fine.

On another note, I finally got my P41 Western all disassembled and stripped, and all the magnesium parts primed with zinc chromate primer. This stuff really sticks. Prior to priming I washed the parts with an aluminum etch solution and used alodine as a rinse. It turns the metal a dull grey. I've purchased a good Sherwin-Williams two part paint and hope to spray a few pieces this weekend.
When Jerry says that the paint stripping is labour intensive, he's not kidding. I probably have 25 hours into that alone. It's a slow project but I want to do it right. I'll post my progress and put a photo up tomorrow.

Brendon.

Brendon; not sure what alodine is but I guess it must be a conditioner of sorts, magnesium turns dark grey quickly after exposure to air and that is why I changed over to using rattle cans of etch primer from using epoxy primer through a gun . I coat each piece immediately after the hot water wash and rinse cycle, before it turns dark as that dark color is the first stage of the mag breaking down. We once used zinc chromate primer exclusively but its hard on spray equipment,your health and has a short pot life. It is more necessary around water, especially salt water and is still used on outboard engines somewhat but the epoxy primer works as well or even better on outboards I have painted.
Pioneerguy600