Pioneer chainsaws

[Lou]

The gtg was a few years ago (5-7 wag).
I think the Prestolite coils easily develop moisture shorts and if properly stored it isn't a problem (I will not store her on a cement floor).
I have an electronic background courtesy of my rich uncle.
Avionics Instrument Systems are probably slanted to the mechanical side but I did get a rudimentary electronics training. I never needed to isolate any solid-state components but chasing shorted and open wiring happened fairly often (F4-every AF model ever flown, a few Navy and Marine models too).
Lou
A very small amount of moisture that condenses inside the coil can cause a short!

 

[mogulmasher]

The gtg was a few years ago (5-7 wag).
I think the Prestolite coils easily develop moisture shorts and if properly stored it isn't a problem (I will not store her on a cement floor).
I have an electronic background courtesy of my rich uncle.
Avionics Instrument Systems are probably slanted to the mechanical side but I did get a rudimentary electronics training. I never needed to isolate any solid-state components but chasing shorted and open wiring happened fairly often (F4-every AF model ever flown, a few Navy and Marine models too).
Lou
A very small amount of moisture that condenses inside the coil can cause a short!

So once the moisture is dried out and saw stored properly the issue should be solved?

 

[mogulmasher]

Also can it be better sealed to prevent future moisture issues?

 

[Svlmustang]

So how long you been running it since the slow bake Lou? I'm just wondering if this is a temporary fix or long term.

It doesn't last long

 

[Lou]

So once the moisture is dried out and saw stored properly the issue should be solved?

Also, can it be better sealed to prevent future moisture issues?

It seems to have solved my no spark problem that occurred so long ago.

I doubt anything can prevent a reoccurrence when conditions are right.
The electronics are cast in what appears to be epoxy. I don't think epoxy will ever properly adhere to the rubber insulation of the wiring, diodes, capacitors, and whatever else is within that block.
Perhaps a liberal application of WD-40 will help but I cannot promise.
I use WD-40 for all kinds of quick repairs from ignition wires that leak electricity. to the moss that wants to grow on my outside heat pump fan.
I just pulled the plug, attached a jumper wire from the plug to ground, and pulled the starter. She sparks. I'll not gas her up until she is needed. When I do I'm confident she'll fire!!!
Lou

 

[mogulmasher]

Okay, well saw will be stored up on a shelf in my garage so hopefully it'll stay dry. I did have a Poulan Pro 405 for awhile, that always started and ran great. Did those have the blue prestolite coil?

 

[Lou]

If you read earlier posts you'll surely find mention of baking your Prestolite coil.
My FarmSaw lost its spark as I've stated in recent posts here... I planned on baking mine at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for 16 hours... I have a modern dual oven set-up (GE digital, set for 24-hour operation) that's smarter than am I, at 12 hours it shut down. I accused my lady of trying to save a few $ on electricity. After she questioned the marital status of my parents at the time of my conception, I checked the oven manual... 12 hours is as long as it will go. I would have needed to reset the bake time sometime during the procedure. It worked on my coil, even though it was shorter than I wanted. It costs very little to try baking it. Good luck
Lou
PS Please don't falsely accuse your mate. I thought an ice age was moving through the house for a while!

The above is from a post quite a while back. I thought you might like to see it.
Posted 27 Apr 2018, the bake happened sometime prior to that.
If I'm not mistaken some HomeLites also used the Prestolite coil.

 

[mogulmasher]

Well back from camping for a couple days. Just emptied box of saws/parts. Coils weren't included with the saws as promised, so guess I gotta source a couple of coils. Ugh

Also both saws are missing handle bars. Also no hardware included at all to put them back together. Should be a fun learning experience I guess. Haven't searched yet, but if someone has copies of an IPL for both p39 and p45 that'd be awesome!

 

[89HD]

I just checked a coil I cooked it’s a few months ago, still good.

 

[Otis B Knotknocker]

Well back from camping for a couple days. Just emptied box of saws/parts. Coils weren't included with the saws as promised, so guess I gotta source a couple of coils. Ugh

Also both saws are missing handle bars. Also no hardware included at all to put them back together. Should be a fun learning experience I guess. Haven't searched yet, but if someone has copies of an IPL for both p39 and p45 that'd be awesome!

Blue coils!! I have two still on the jugs from the P60 era, I assume they are good. Also other P60+ parts and Hardware if interested. Don't know if they will fit the 42s

 

[Beavers]

I haven’t used mine, should have power to cut most anything. Parts are scarce Around here. Just working trying to fix the clutch cover up and need a muffler.View attachment 839360View attachment 839361View attachment 839362

l am seperating my Crankcase on the 750 and it has 2 alignment pins l want to remove. l do not want to break anything hammering them out. Have you any advise on how you did it on your saw their.

 

[cbfarmall]

The aligment pins are tapered. Drive them out from the flywheel side towards the clutch side. Use a hammer and punch.

 

[Beavers]

The aligment pins are tapered. Drive them out from the flywheel side towards the clutch side. Use a hammer and punch.

Will l need to applie heat, will l need to support the block in any such manner? l notice the pins coming out the F/W side are not flush . Maybe l am overthinking this. l have 2 blocks here l want to split.

 

[cbfarmall]

They shouldn't come put real hard. A couple solid strikes are better than a bunch of half-ass ones. Support it in whatever way makes you comfortable.

 

[Beavers]

l will give it a go tomorrow, Thx alot.

 

[Beavers]

They shouldn't come put real hard. A couple solid strikes are better than a bunch of half-ass ones. Support it in whatever way makes you comfortable.

l managed to remove the 2 tapered alignment pins by striking each one with a hammer from F/W side as you mentioned, both popped out on floor. l then installed a 3 -leg puller into the threaded holes on F/W side, heated up bearing bore and the case easily seperated.
l split 2 cases this way and one case looks better then the other.

 

[89HD]

l am seperating my Crankcase on the 750 and it has 2 alignment pins l want to remove. l do not want to break anything hammering them out. Have you any advise on how you did it on your saw their.

I heated the case a little with a propane torch and tapped them out, they came out no problem

 

[xl130]

Looking for some help with the bar mount for a couple of Pioneers. I have recently acquired a P41S and Farmsaw. I would like to buy new bars for them but I can’t seem to figure out the bar mount.

There must be some other common saws that share the same bar?

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[fossil]

Looking for some help with the bar mount for a couple of Pioneers. I have recently acquired a P41S and Farmsaw. I would like to buy new bars for them but I can’t seem to figure out the bar mount.

There must be some other common saws that share the same bar?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Oregon D196. You can easily make a large Husky mount, Oregon D009, work as well. I'm not so sure you have to do anything to the Husky mount.

Just make sure the bar has the upper oiler hole and not just the adjuster holes which the Homelites oil through.

Try the bar from your XL-76 which should be a Windsor UXL or TXL bar which is the same as the D096 / D196 Oregon mount.

 

[xl130]

Oregon D196. You can easily make a large Husky mount, Oregon D009, work as well. I'm not so sure you have to do anything to the Husky mount.

Just make sure the bar has the upper oiler hole and not just the adjuster holes which the Homelites oil through.

Try the bar from your XL-76 which should be a Windsor UXL or TXL bar which is the same as the D096 / D196 Oregon mount.

Thanks fossil. I’ll check those bars.