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Nice job brandon. I'd be interested in the paint code i have a P41 and a P38 i will do later, both have very good original paint so i may just clean'em up. I also have a Holiday 2 saw i just got, paint is not good and i need the primer bulb for it also and likely a carb kit, i found a carb kit on ebay but no primer bulb yet. I always revert back to the Pioneer saws just something about them i like i guess. Keep up the great work and post some more pics when your done.
 
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Nice job brandon. I'd be interested in the paint code i have a P41 and a P38 i will do later, both have very good original paint so i may just clean'em up. I also have a Holiday 2 saw i just got, paint is not good and i need the primer bulb for it also and likely a carb kit, i found a carb kit on ebay but no primer bulb yet. I always revert back to the Pioneer saws just something about them i like i guess. Kepp up the great work and post some more pics when your done.

Is your primer pump body still in good condition, if so all you need is the diaphragm and the little check valve rubber. Brandon has some from time to time, I got 4 from him a year or so ago and he has come up with a few for others since then, hope he can pull a rabbit out of the hat for you this time. Best of luck JOE.
Pioneerguy600
 
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Hey Jerry. The pump body is ok its the rubber parts that has rotted away. Perhaps i should PM Brandon and see if he has anything. Thanks.
 
Today's progress

I worked all day on this P41 (I have a very understanding wife although at times I think she thinks this hobby a bit nuts). I rebuilt the starter, assembled the clutch cover and brake, detailed the fuel and oil caps, installed the reeds and carb and added a nice set of new spikes and a brand new Western muffler. I'm seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.
As requested I've posted the paint tag for the black I used on the other parts that I'll add later. It looks to be just right but you can judge for yourself in a couple of days when I get those final pics up.

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More pics soon.
 
I worked all day on this P41 (I have a very understanding wife although at times I think she thinks this hobby a bit nuts). I rebuilt the starter, assembled the clutch cover and brake, detailed the fuel and oil caps, installed the reeds and carb and added a nice set of new spikes and a brand new Western muffler. I'm seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.
As requested I've posted the paint tag for the black I used on the other parts that I'll add later. It looks to be just right but you can judge for yourself in a couple of days when I get those final pics up.

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More pics soon.

Looking real nice, the paint turned out good and I can see you are taking care assembling the parts, those screws chew the paint up under them and around them if they are overtightened.
Pioneerguy600
 
I can see you are taking care assembling the parts, those screws chew the paint up under them and around them if they are overtightened

Jerry, I know what you mean about the paint getting chewed up by the screws if overtightened so I left the ones that need removed occasionally fairly loose for now. The paint is really tough though even after only a week and I'm really quite happy with it. It flowed nicely and resists runs fairly well. The best part is that I avoided any major paint damage during reassembly... by being extra careful. It's not a job to do if you're short on time. It's a painstaking process and requires a lot of patience to say the least. I have a new respect for you and the saws you've restored now. I'd recommend the experience to anyone who's interested in doing the same and at the same time it would be nice to see some more Pioneers resurrected from the brink of the scrap heap.
 
Just another note, the guys at Sherwin-Williams said that a urethane would be better than a polyurethane for this purpose. It has fewer of the plastic-type characteristics that paints like Endura and other polyeurethanes have. It can also be repaired easier and is less likely to tear.
 
Just another note, the guys at Sherwin-Williams said that a urethane would be better than a polyurethane for this purpose. It has fewer of the plastic-type characteristics that paints like Endura and other polyeurethanes have. It can also be repaired easier and is less likely to tear.

I agree, have tried a lot of paint and seen myself where the multi component urethane we use on industrial equipment that is outdoors all year round stands up to the elements. To get a nice finish on the small bodies of chainsaws and outboard motors the prep work is the most painstaking. What goes on under the paint shows through after the paint is applied. The ultimate paint job can be achieved by using epoxy primer as it lays on smoother and has less buildup. It does not require sanding but has to be top coated immediately before it dries completely. I use it on outboard engines that are used around salt water and this stuff holds up real well subjected to the elements. Its very expensive system to buy and requires separate spray guns with the primer and paint needing to be mixed and ready before starting to apply. The epoxy system is also very toxic so it must be applied in a spray booth while wearing protective apparel. That is why I have settled on using the etch primer and 3 part urethane,once cured it is very tough surface wise and is highly resistant to gasoline and solvents, also scratching on the everyday work saws.
Pioneerguy600
 
100th Page!

:clap:CONGRATULATIONS:clap:
Pioneer Fans
100 Pages
To all the members that have made contributions to this Pioneer thread
WELL DONE!

Through this thread you guys have shared pictures,questions,history and
knowledge about Pioneer chainsaws and the company that made them.

A special Thank You to the Pioneer Gurus,you know who you are, for
helping to educate newbies like myself and others on this site.

AGAIN,THANK YOU TO YOU ALL!


Lawrence
 
:clap:CONGRATULATIONS:clap:
Pioneer Fans
100 Pages
To all the members that have made contributions to this Pioneer thread
WELL DONE!

Through this thread you guys have shared pictures,questions,history and
knowledge about Pioneer chainsaws and the company that made them.

A special Thank You to the Pioneer Gurus,you know who you are, for
helping to educate newbies like myself and others on this site.

AGAIN,THANK YOU TO YOU ALL!


Lawrence

That really is something to celebrate, 100 pages,YEAAAAAAAH.
I must admit that when this thread was first started I thought that it would peter out in a short time. Well just look at it now. Special thanks to petesoldsaw for starting this thread, and thanks to all who have contributed knowledge, pictures and to discussions. Can`t forget to thank all those who asked questions as that is as big a part of keeping a thread going as it adds new fuel to the fire.
Pioneerguy600
 
100

We sure do appreciate you starting the thread, Lawrence. It really did fill a gap in the Arboristsite website. You've been a friendly ambassador for those newcomers as well and have made everyone feel welcome.

Thanks to everyone who has posted, I've learned a lot and look forward to restoring many more Pioneers and posting them on this thread.

Guys, keep up the good work... and congrats on the 100th page!

Brendon.
 
P28 For Sale

Just in case you Pioneer Fans did not know yet I have a P28 forsale in the for sale section I placed recently!

Here is a short video of it running!

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P41 assembled

It's finally all done except for the decals. The paint was hardened nicely this afternoon so I went ahead and finished it. I'm super pleased with the results and I'll post some more pics after I get the decals for it and add a bar and chain. If anyone knows where I might find a full-wrap handle for this saw I'd sure appreciate the lead. It won't really be a Western saw without one.



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Oops, I forgot the rear hanguard. It'll be on there next time as well.
 
Real Sweet!

Brendon, that is one heck of nice job you have done there!That saw will also look like it just came out of a box from the factory.
Great to see the Pictures!
Lawrence
 
Brendon, that is one heck of nice job you have done there!That saw will also look like it just came out of a box from the factory.
Great to see the Pictures!
Lawrence

:agree2:

Superb work and it will look even better (just marginally possible) with the decals.

You guys are great restorers!

:cheers:
 
Fellas

I cleaned the fuel tank, fuel bowl, and carb on my 650 and it fired up, but when I went to start it again my starter pawls would not engage.

I took off the recoil and sprayed some silicon-based oil into the recoil, then wiped off the excess. It did not help.

Is there a trick to getting the pawls to engage?

The 650 is very clean underneath the covers and it should only be a matter of some very light cleaning, then I can strip and repaint the magnesium. I may get a few ready tho so I can use up the paint when I buy it.

Thanks for any help.

:cheers:
 
It's finally all done except for the decals. The paint was hardened nicely this afternoon so I went ahead and finished it. I'm super pleased with the results and I'll post some more pics after I get the decals for it and add a bar and chain. If anyone knows where I might find a full-wrap handle for this saw I'd sure appreciate the lead. It won't really be a Western saw without one.

Give me some time Brendon & I'll see what I have in my pile. Pretty sure I can find something, and that saw deserves it! Nice job.
 
Fellas

I cleaned the fuel tank, fuel bowl, and carb on my 650 and it fired up, but when I went to start it again my starter pawls would not engage.

I took off the recoil and sprayed some silicon-based oil into the recoil, then wiped off the excess. It did not help.

Is there a trick to getting the pawls to engage?

The 650 is very clean underneath the covers and it should only be a matter of some very light cleaning, then I can strip and repaint the magnesium. I may get a few ready tho so I can use up the paint when I buy it.

Thanks for any help.
:cheers:

The pawl system on those Fairbanks-Morse starters won't function if they're oily or rusty. Take it apart & make sure the pieces are all clean & dry. Under the E-clip you should have in this order: Washer, spring, thin metal washer, fibre washer, pawl assembly, fibre washer, and thin metal washer. Quite often the washers & pawl assembly get rusted together from sitting & you have to separate them & clean them up. It's important that you get no oil on the washers, or the spring tension on them is not enough to actuate the pawls.
 
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