As a retired tradesman the c3 number means more clearance then the standard bearing clearance. No c is used if it is standard clearance. c2 means less than standard clearance.In this case it is used because chainsaws rely on the oil in the mix to oil them. Hi speed bearings are usually run in a oil bath and some using oil coolers. Greased bearings are usually standard clearance. I could go on all day about what types of bearings are stronger etc. but not today. Looser clearance is also allowed for bearings in hot envirement that can,t be cooled by water or oil. A chainsaw relies on the fan on ignition or starter end also cylinder fins. Allan
Pioneer chainsaws
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Went to gas station today to fill up after my trip and to go to parts store for a new car battery.Talking to the same young fellow who had filled it up friday be for my trip on saturday for the saws He asked how many I picked up . I told him and he said they had an old pioneer out in chicken coop covered with crap and could have if I wanted. Went to his farm and his wife showed me it. Put it in a bag and it is now in my wood shed. Not sure what model it is but the chain and bar look pretty good about 18-20 inch. Will clean it up tomorrow. With ontario full lock down will have lots to do. Allan
FXR they sell the primers after market just get the on e marked made in USA, The primers are a barrel type you push a plunger the barrel is an exact fit in the old primer hole I ground part of the plunger handle of with the operator prescence lever knob it only gives you one half stroke which is perfect for the small engine .It looks OK too.
Where are you located in Ontario I am near ThunderBay.
Kash
Where are you located in Ontario I am near ThunderBay.
Kash
Kash Thanks for primer info. Yesterday was horrendus shopping because of coming lock down.here.Had to get a new battery and a head lite bulb for my jimmy. Will probably try amazon for primer. I live 15-20 minutes east of cornwall. Allan. Just found out ctc has them.
The free pioneer saw was a 1200s. After cleaning about two six qt. baskets of chicken crap off found out it was a 1200. Pulled starter and it was seized up. Removed bar and chain. Removed clutch cover. The inside of the saw was the dirtiest I have ever seen. Removed starter cover,plugged solid but now could turn motor freely with seemingly good compression. Worked an hour freeing up starter and it works now. Used flap disc on bar to remove rust and soaked chain in penetrating oil and diesel fuel til tomorrow. Quit for the day. All good so far except the chicken crap was hard on paint.When I wiped detergent on it a lot of paint left with the crap. Also fuel tank all gummed up. Allan Forgot it had a 20 in. bar solid tip good shape with the chain at least half life.
Always nice when you get that recoil cover off and the engine turns over! I like bringing these old saw back to life.
I have never tried it in a metal tank but have cleaned many varnished molasses like snow mobile and lawn tractor tanks with MEK .Slosh it around in 5 minutes clean as a whistle.I have used toilet bowl cleaner in rusty steel tanks and it works good.MEK is hard to find but Canadian Tire has it in the small cans.Be very careful with it it is pretty toxic so they say.I pour it back in the can and reuse it Acetone and the modern cleaners are basicaly a waste of time in my opinion .
Kash
Kash
1200 stuffs here if ya need any
Lacquer thinner usually works for gummed up/varnished tanks. Gotta be careful about exposing plastic or rubber (grommets, hoses. etc.) to it for any length of time, tho.
MEK is the fiberglass stuff.I call it my miracle cleaner.I have used a lot of different methods Electrolosis works great on certain stuff nuts in a metal tank and strap to a lawn tractor tire. Industrial toilet bowl cleaner is really good to on metal tanks but you have to deal with flash over rust forming.
One stop shop easy button, no agitation required,
Pioneerguy600 Have already used my mec to clean tank out. Will try some of that remover on other saws I have to work on. Every thing on the 1200s gives me a fight to come apart. Working on flywheel now. Trying to find proper bolts for my puller to fit in flywheel now. So far only thing needed is a manual oil pump which was not there. Thanks for info. Allan
If you ever get the chance to use it, all the other methods will quickly be forgotten.
Looks to be NLA.
Do you have any NAPA outlets close by? They can get it here.
This product would work just as good,
https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catal...DTsYwHRsB8Fo2RNj7HpTrFa-OgGaOk4RoCbz4QAvD_BwE
https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catal...DTsYwHRsB8Fo2RNj7HpTrFa-OgGaOk4RoCbz4QAvD_BwE
brandonstc6
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Has anyone rebuilt a pioneer 650 and used standard sized seals? If so which ones did you use? Thanks
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I used to use this prior to the EPA banning the crucial chemical that makes it work so quick and well. I have 1 quart of the banned stuff left.
Homelite enthusiast in training.
Homelite enthusiast in training.
I have used Chicago Rawhide#6630 on the flywheel side and #6661 on the PTO side.Has anyone rebuilt a pioneer 650 and used standard sized seals? If so which ones did you use? Thanks
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#6630 is 17X32X7 MM and #6661 is 17X40X7 MM
I cannot currently find the Motion seal interchange chart but there is likely other charts out there that will give interchange manufacturers numbers for these seals. The link below may be of some help,
http://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/popup_parts_lookup_457012.htm
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