Outlet check valve. Use a viton oring, I think it is size 001. Also, where the primer line enters the case, that fitting may contain another check valve. The bigger 3200 series have 2 outlet check valves.
Pioneer chainsaws
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Should the inlet check valve move freely of the seat. l have seen ones that are sticky texture but have a clean seat.
They should not be sticky at all. The disk should be free to move under the w spring. There is a little bit of room under there.
l have some newer old stock ones in Package, , They get gooie after long shelf life somewhat. l guess that is another problem and something to look at with a old primer not working.
l wonder if making a new disk from a fibre reed would work on these primers.
Anyone tried this ?
l wonder if making a new disk from a fibre reed would work on these primers.
Anyone tried this ?
Just use carb diaphragm punchings. As long as they are flexible. Some guys will stack a couple as carb diaphragms are thinner than original.
A single carb diaphragm disc is all mine ever needed, thin is good as the fuel pressure is what closes them tight against the metal seat. The cup shape of the diaphragm is what gives the movement forward and back that a flat diaphragm cannot, not as much travel. A sharp neck on a rifle shell will cut a nice clean disc if one does not have a punch. I mount my punch in a drill press and used a block of hardwood on the table to place the diaphragm material on, the rotating sharp edges of the punch cuts a nice clean disc.
I have to wonder if there is some other diaphragm with a shape similar to this one, that needed bit could be cut out of. Anything with that cupped profile.
I never tried it but have thought about trying a wheel brake cylinder piston cup, no idea if it would withstand gasoline though.
These don't have primers.
Seems like a good idea but judging by how they used to swell when oil is accidentally used instead of brake fluid, may not be a good choice. Any chance they changed to silicone cups in the last few years?
Wha about a piece of leather? The accelerator pump in my Homelite Super 1050 is leather.
l found some blockage in the tiny inlet check valve orifice in the C-case , l found this blockage after rebuilding the Primer assy and then installin on saw , then before l attavhed the Hose from C-Case to Primer l push primer button to check for fuel squirt. l narrowed the problem down to the c-case check valve body blockage.
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I am quite surprised that the primer pump on my 1450 still works like it always has, never been rebuilt or serviced since I bought it new in 67. It cut a lot of wood in its time and shows some wear.
Most Saws would not even work after 56 Years of service . T
hats pretty remarkable.
hats pretty remarkable.
It`s been a good saw over the years, my 1957 RA is still a runner, its had one carb rebuild back in the mid 80`s and nothing else, of course they are not used much so the hours have not accumulated much wear n tear. Most of my old Pioneers from the late 50`s to the 70`s will run if fueled up and taken out for a run.Most Saws would not even work after 56 Years of service . T
My Farmsaw has been good to me too. I bought her new in 80 (I thought 79 but the serial number crosses to 1980). She was most often run in the NM Cloudcroft National Forest. Back then she always ran leaded regular gas. I think I always drained her tank once she went into my garage. When I got orders for Germany (Late 1985 or early 1986) she went into storage and remained there until early 1991 when we bought this place (Buckley WA). Once I got her back I always fueled her with 100LL Av Gas mixed at 50:1/40:1 (still do; still drain all fuel tanks too). I have 20" and 24" bars. She does not have a primer but a small slug in her throat works like a primer. I also have 2 Husqvarna. A 359 running a 20 or 24 inch bar, and a T435 running a 16" bar. All 3 of these saws have been good to me. I hope your saws are as reliable and trouble free for you. Lou
I had a 2 cycle Lawnboy lawnmower (1991) that smoked terribly. I tried to lean it out to reduce the cloud of smoke it created any time it was run. It is now a large paper weight. I try to learn from my mistakes I do/will not adjust any 2 cycle carb! I have my choice of an independent, a Husky Dealer, or a Stihl dealer. I like Stihl chains, the Husky dealer does almost all maintenance needed. The independent used to sharpen all my chains. I now have an Oregon clone chain grinder (not Harbor Freight).
I had a 2 cycle Lawnboy lawnmower (1991) that smoked terribly. I tried to lean it out to reduce the cloud of smoke it created any time it was run. It is now a large paper weight. I try to learn from my mistakes I do/will not adjust any 2 cycle carb! I have my choice of an independent, a Husky Dealer, or a Stihl dealer. I like Stihl chains, the Husky dealer does almost all maintenance needed. The independent used to sharpen all my chains. I now have an Oregon clone chain grinder (not Harbor Freight).
I have had a chainsaw in my hands since around 8 -9 years old and have almost every saw myself and close family members have ever owned, we cut a lot more than most over the years and would buy a new saw every 5 -7 years , they were not worn out but better smoother faster cutting saws were coming out on the market making them more comfortable and better production saws for us. When I look back over all these saws and see the improvements each new era saw has built into them, its been quite a journey. Cutting with a new saw required some adjustments, good memories set deep into my brain. Hand filing is all I have ever done, learned very young how to make em cut through trial and error, had plenty of chains to experiment with, mostly big .404 cutters back then on 100+cc chainsaws and even some less cc gear drives.
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