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Just heads up. I dont know squat on pioneers.

Looking at a PP655 BP cylinder then a P60 cylinder. Does the PP655 work on a P60 and P65 too? Shape of bases appear different looking at them.

Will PP655 bolt on the P60 P61 P62 P65 is what I want to know. Dont care about the BP part myself.

NOS BP set I found.
 

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There was a time where they didn’t really ID them very well with the tags. Just a series of numbers. Not sure there’s a way to dicepher those. I’m sure the experts have more info.
 
Just heads up. I dont know squat on pioneers.

Looking at a PP655 BP cylinder then a P60 cylinder. Does the PP655 work on a P60 and P65 too? Shape of bases appear different looking at them.

Will PP655 bolt on the P60 P61 P62 P65 is what I want to know. Dont care about the BP part myself.

NOS BP set I found.
@av8or3
 
I'm sure this topic has been touched on before but I wasn't able to find what everyone's favorite adhesive / epoxy that they claimed worked the best for repairing the cracked reed blocks?? I have quite a few products that I had around that would work but didn't know if folks were glueing the cracks on the inside of the intake or just on the exterior?

View attachment 1135291

I didn't want to use an epoxy on the inside of the intake if it couldn't stand up to the petrol.

I figured that you would just want to glue any split area and fill the cracks in?

Thank you so very much in advance!!!
I've only fixed one and the saw didn't see a lot of use, but it was in there for a while and was still working fine when I found a NOS part and replaced it.
I cut a vee clear to the brass insert with my Dremel and used JB Weld. I did it on the inside and outside. When It was hardened I used the Dremel and emery cloth to smooth out the inside of the intake. It didn't leak at all when I p/v tested it, and the saw ran fine for as long as it was in there. I couldn't see any evidence that the gas had affected it at all when I removed it. I didn't throw it away, but I couldn't find it for pictures--I suspect that I used it again but don't remember for sure.
 
Stuff I learned on CRG FB from a super knowledgeable chainsaw collector and shop owner.

So good to go with all the info I got from there yesterday. Amazing how fast info is there.


EMAB. Later production. Much better quality.

507…. That means it was after they merged with partner when that cylinder was built.


Stuff from pics.

Gil cylinder and K&S piston

BP Boost Port
 

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I'm sure this topic has been touched on before but I wasn't able to find what everyone's favorite adhesive / epoxy that they claimed worked the best for repairing the cracked reed blocks?? I have quite a few products that I had around that would work but didn't know if folks were glueing the cracks on the inside of the intake or just on the exterior?

View attachment 1135291

I didn't want to use an epoxy on the inside of the intake if it couldn't stand up to the petrol.

I figured that you would just want to glue any split area and fill the cracks in?

Thank you so very much in advance!!!
3M makes a fuel resistant epoxy that I've used before but don't remember exactly what it was. I see that JB Weld makes a fuel resistant blend too but don't know that it's ok for plastic or not.

I have some reed blocks on my to do list that could use fixing before going back on a saw. Let us know what you try and how it works.
 
3M makes a fuel resistant epoxy that I've used before but don't remember exactly what it was. I see that JB Weld makes a fuel resistant blend too but don't know that it's ok for plastic or not.

I have some reed blocks on my to do list that could use fixing before going back on a saw. Let us know what you try and how it works.
I have a new reed block printed on a 3D printer using carbon fibre material, looks and feels good. Have to get it on a saw and try it yet.
 

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