Pleasantly Surprised by First Attempt at Plastic Restoration

[srcarr52]

Plastic is a petroleum base so often when weathered looking an oil based penetrating oil/cleaner will restore the color. An occasional wipe down with WD40 will keep the fades away.

 

[husky01]

That looks like a mighty fine job you've done there champ:msp_thumbup:, it's better than i could ever do. well done!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

...Which leads into my next question, how rugged is the clear? does it chip off easily? I realize that they are saws, but im curious.

I used a Krylon specifically labeled "indoor/outdoor" vs. a regular clear coat. Guess I'll find out how rugged it is over time.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Plastic is a petroleum base so often when weathered looking an oil based penetrating oil/cleaner will restore the color.

My reasoning, exactly.

 

[mt.stalker]

Bottom line? Nuthin' to it and it pretty much looks like it should.... and I'm pleased with the effort to result ratio.

Effort /result ratio , I like that :msp_thumbup:
Looking good

 

[cmarti]

Plastic is a petroleum base so often when weathered looking an oil based penetrating oil/cleaner will restore the color. An occasional wipe down with WD40 will keep the fades away.

Good point!A well, Marvels Mystery Oil works well for cleaning and sanding plastics. Old guy showed me on faded truck molding, Lasts months longer than armor all types.

Your stuff looks great Pogo. I have never taken the step of clear coating. Thanks for posting

 

[Dusty dingo]

I have used a limited trial of Penetrol, an old time paint additive, which also has a host of other uses if you read their literature and user feedback. (Most hardware and paint stores have it). I've used it on fiberglass, plastics and wood, steel. It's a wonderful 'deep creep' agent, and maybe would figure in to what's being discussed here. Has anyone here used it long term with an observation? You simply apply with a rag, let dry and buff. It's an additive to prevent brush marks in latex and enamel paint.

I am presently restoring a couple of weathered Stihls (just general fading and oxidation) and one Echo (shiny but dark staining, can't figure what from other than mold or ?? , it comes from Florida... ).
Lots of great trial and error and good results being traded here, hope someone is posting the best of them to other relevant threads .
Thanks everyone!!

 

[SteveSr]

Have seen several threads on the subject and finally got around to trying the wet sanding and clear coat approach on some really nasty 066 plastics and I'm delighted with the results so far. Started out with 400 grit and wasn't getting very far very fast. With not much to lose, I went down to 220, put some ass into it, and started getting through the fading and oxidation fairly fast. Then back to the 400 wet (with Liquid Wrench), then some 600, then a bath in Blue Dawn before a coat of Krylon indoor/outdoor Crystal Clear gloss. BTW, I got the Liquid Wrench tip from JJ for wet sanding metal, but it works great on plastic, too. Thanks, JJ. If I would have known it was gonna turn out as well as it did, I would have been a little more patient and detailed in my sanding, but I'm thinking another light sanding and another fine coat should finish it up decently. The shroud will be a little more challenging and ain't no way I'm sanding all the way through some of the impregnated stain, but I intend to take a little more time with it and see how it goes. I'll post a coupla more pics when I'm done with it. I have about a half hour total in the air box cover which doesn't seem too bad for the result

Anybody else NOT seeing any of Pogo's photos? Is the site messed up?

 

[hanniedog]

No photos either.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

They were all before the site hack when inline pics were lost. FWIW, the 066 plastics are still holding up. Also recently cleaned up a 300th Anniversary Husky Model 50 black top cover with Pledge on a tip from another guy. Worked well for the more porous type of finish and even brightened up some scuffs on the sprocket cover. Was kinda surprised.