I haven't had the issue on 390's. Never tried it on a 395.Iv'e had no problem using them on other saws including 372, 390, & 395.
Like I said, it's only with a richer tune running a 32" bar with an aggressive chain on a 365 and 372xp.
I haven't had the issue on 390's. Never tried it on a 395.Iv'e had no problem using them on other saws including 372, 390, & 395.
That exhaust port is a snagged ring waiting to happen. Yes, you need to raise it. Yes, the transfers have to come up.
Interesting, I haven’t experienced any issues like that. I’ve only 6 of them on though, 4-2171’s,2186,&2188. Eric actually did something to the carb on the one he ported for me but I can’t tell any difference in it. My biggest issue is the fine line between pig rich and lean. They are really touchy to get just right for me anywaysIts not an issue cutting small diameter wood when the rpm's are up. It's when I stuff it with a long bar and aggressive chain. Possibly due to the richer tune running a longer bar. If it bogs at full throttle and I hold the trigger wfo, it floods and is slow to recover. Like when you get chips packed between the bar and chain.I sometimes have to shut the saw off and hold the trigger open while I restart it. It does it on both the 365 and 372. Not so much on the 7900 and 390 as they can take the extra fuel
How much of a head banger? Lock up and won’t go any more or a light tap? How big was the old pop up. Best thing to do is figure your squish and go from there? You can put 0.040” gasket in and measure to see what you haveA bit off topic, but I've been working on a 385 that's been ported with 22 thou taken off the base.
Anyway, with a stock piston and 20 thou base gasket, it's a head banger.
Somewhat elementary, would a 40 thou gasket smarten it up?
The original jug came with a pop up slug.
The figures are as follows:
Intake:165 66.5 mm
Ex: 24 mm
Tr: 130 29 mm
Bye the way, it's just 20F here now, no snow on the ground, Blaze King blazing. 80f in my shack right now.
Been thinking about flinging doors and windows open , cracking a liquid refreshment and cranking up the tunes.
I didn't get aggressive enough to see if I could get it to rotate past tdc. I do have a ballpeen around here somewhere.How much of a head banger? Lock up and won’t go any more or a light tap? How big was the old pop up. Best thing to do is figure your squish and go from there? You can put 0.040” gasket in and measure to see what you have
I always told the wife when she turned 40 I was gonna trade her in on 2 20's. For whatever reason, that never happened.I didn't get aggressive enough to see if I could get it to rotate past tdc. I do have a ballpeen around here somewhere.
I'd do a squish if I had any solder handy.
As you mentioned, I'll try 40 thou+ bg.
Will keep you posted, as I think this saw is a potential ringer.
I always told the wife when she turned 40 I was gonna trade her in on 2 20's. For whatever reason, that never happened.
So I guess you could use 2 .020" gaskets instead of finding a .040
ProbablyI hear ya, so twenty is tight, 40 is ok, but 60 may be to loose?
All depends on condition!I hear ya, so twenty is tight, 40 is ok, but 60 may be to loose?
And the size of your solderAll depends on condition!
I did my 48mm Tecomec like this:
100 exhaust
117/122 staggered transfers prim/sec slightly champhered towards the intake.
77 intake
Squish just came out about .021
Runs out nice. Prefer it to stock open transfer cylinder (1997 model 2065) with a 20" bar.
Plan to try a Meteor 630 windowed piston with a little popup next. Figure the added heat of the popup should be mitigated by the lighter windowed piston. My intake might be excessive no worries have another cylinder if I have to start over.
Had originally wanted a 24" bar for this but have another saw setup pulling a 24" 8-pin so it isn't needed. Keeps it pretty nimble with the 20" for its size.
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