Poulan Pro - Which 'newer' ones are good saws?

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This is my view:

The ones with the four-digit model number where the first two digits are cc and the second two are bar length (e.g. 4218, 4620) are plasticky box store stuff.

The Poulan Pros with the three-digit number that are > 300 are good stuff. PP330 recently sold at Tractor Supply, for example. Be careful, though: PP295 is a 46cc plastic saw.



Other Poulans? I don't know, a lot of it is older stuff that I personally am less interested in.

Actually a 4 digit green one like a 2500 or 2900 is in fact a pretty darn good ones with Swiss made cranks and chrome bores!

Not much difference in them and the PP295 either which is also pretty good when fitted with a 16" bar, muffler modded and tuned.
 
I'm glad to hear that the 4620 is a good saw, of course I can't complain because mine was free. I figure I'll eventually pull the 20" bar, labelled Poulan made by Oregon (keep it for my Jreds), put on a 16" bar, & drill a couple of extra holes in the muffler. I'll need to get the right tool for the funky jets, or rig one.
 
I'm glad to hear that the 4620 is a good saw, of course I can't complain because mine was free. I figure I'll eventually pull the 20" bar, labelled Poulan made by Oregon (keep it for my Jreds), put on a 16" bar, & drill a couple of extra holes in the muffler. I'll need to get the right tool for the funky jets, or rig one.

Chris, just lay out the 10 bucks for the proper tool to adjust that carb.

You will be glad you did as I for one think that those splined carb screws are the best design going.

There the easiest to adjust on a running saw with the proper tool.
 
Chris, just lay out the 10 bucks for the proper tool to adjust that carb.

You will be glad you did as I for one think that those splined carb screws are the best design going.

There the easiest to adjust on a running saw with the proper tool.

Actually, I agree. I was annoyed at first at having to get one (mind you it cost like $6 + 3 shipping) but when you actually use it, its really east to work with because it "grips" the carb screw. Im sure im not the only one who has fumbled with a working saw trying to get the flathead screwdriver actually "in" the screw head.
 
pp295-4620

I have the 4620 which I believe is based on the 295. It actually gets some decent work for me when I want to pull out a lightweight saw. Its actually usually the first saw I use in the spring - when the wife wants some samplings or similar pulled & I dont want to fire up the big saws/havent got good mix yet that year.


Stock, however, its not going to be much fun to use, but here's what Ive done though:

1) get rid of the stupid 20" B&C. No way this little 46cc engine can run that effectively. Ive outfitted mine with a Husky 16" & it runs much better. It will take the husky bar pattern with no problem - should be the same for a dolmar bar, I believe.

2) (actually, this should probably be #1) get rid of the tool-less adjustment. You can just drill a hole if you like, or you can look online for the "old" style side cover. I think i paid about $15 for mine, shipping included. I know some people said they were able to just contact poulan & complain enough until they got one sent free. I got my saw free from the local landfill so I figured $15 was ok to spend.

3) Open up the muffler a bit. It makes a huge difference on this little thing.


After that, you have a pretty nice, light saw with decent antivibe. Its definitely got more grunt than my dad's limber (ms180) and at quite a lower cost.


If you do get one of these, make sure you get a hold of one of the carb adjusting tools. The stupid carb (while a good quality walbro) of course uses a special splined tool on the H & L needles. :p

I agree ,I bought the old style clutch covers, did a muffler mod,retuned the carb and changed them to a 16inch bar and chain ,they scream now!!! you can get a lot of parts off ebay
 
I've got a Jred 2036 turbo that I thought was a rebadged PP but maybe the opposite is true. With a MM and retune that little saw screams. It is 36cc's with a Windsor 16" b&c and it easily out cuts my SIL's Echo CS440. Love that saw for limbing. I feel that you would be making a good choice to purchase a PP of the same cc or higher.
 
I have the 4620 which I believe is based on the 295. It actually gets some decent work for me when I want to pull out a lightweight saw. Its actually usually the first saw I use in the spring - when the wife wants some samplings or similar pulled & I dont want to fire up the big saws/havent got good mix yet that year.


Stock, however, its not going to be much fun to use, but here's what Ive done though:

1) get rid of the stupid 20" B&C. No way this little 46cc engine can run that effectively. Ive outfitted mine with a Husky 16" & it runs much better. It will take the husky bar pattern with no problem - should be the same for a dolmar bar, I believe.

2) (actually, this should probably be #1) get rid of the tool-less adjustment. You can just drill a hole if you like, or you can look online for the "old" style side cover. I think i paid about $15 for mine, shipping included. I know some people said they were able to just contact poulan & complain enough until they got one sent free. I got my saw free from the local landfill so I figured $15 was ok to spend.

3) Open up the muffler a bit. It makes a huge difference on this little thing.


After that, you have a pretty nice, light saw with decent antivibe. Its definitely got more grunt than my dad's limber (ms180) and at quite a lower cost.


If you do get one of these, make sure you get a hold of one of the carb adjusting tools. The stupid carb (while a good quality walbro) of course uses a special splined tool on the H & L needles. :p
My 2775 is basically the same saw as the 4620 and 295, but I don't know if it has the chrome bore - no biggie to me. Get a Type 1 muffler, open up the baffle and it already has a big outlet so just pry that open a bit. Tune it and put on a 20BPX or similar chain. It pulls the 20" bar just fine and sounds pretty wicked too. It's also light, well balanced and narrow.

Chris, just lay out the 10 bucks for the proper tool to adjust that carb.

You will be glad you did as I for one think that those splined carb screws are the best design going.

There the easiest to adjust on a running saw with the proper tool.
I agree - I wish all my saws had them.
 
:agree2: Oh yeah, definately. I do some reading there, and have picked-up some good pointers. Used good saws in decent shape are rare around here, and the major brands such as Stihl & Husqvarna are usually priced accordingly. I'm curious because I've most certainly seen some of the better Poulan Pros, but didn't give them much attention because I don't know which PPs are sleepers.

Maybe it's time that I go through the entire Poulan thread, and the modern Poulan thread, & compile a list of PPs worth considering :monkey:.

Thanks to all for responding! :cheers: make mine n-a

Wait I haven't bought my "Good" Poulan's yet. When this crew finds out how good they are the price will go up. Ha Ha!
Shep
 
This thread showed up while I was researching a Poulan Pro 375, so why not give it bump.

When I started this thread I had a Poulan Pro 4620HDAV. In the last 14 months I've added several Poulans--5400, 3400, 3700 as a Craftsman 3.7, & SD25A. I'd like to get the PP375, but my tax bill gets top priority.
 
This thread showed up while I was researching a Poulan Pro 375, so why not give it bump.

When I started this thread I had a Poulan Pro 4620HDAV. In the last 14 months I've added several Poulans--5400, 3400, 3700 as a Craftsman 3.7, & SD25A. I'd like to get the PP375, but my tax bill gets top priority.

get the pp375. equivalent to the 3700. great saw. paid $25 for mine and a little tweaking runs well.
 
I'd satay away from pulans. There are often used saws on kijiji or craigslist which are way better.

That is one of the more ignorant posts I have seen in a while!!:msp_glare:

Oh, and by the way, they are Poulans, not pulans.

:cheers:
Gregg,

Gregg, dad used to tell me never argue with an idiot, sooner or later you realize he enjoys it and if someone walks by they may not be able to tell the difference.

:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
 
I'd satay away from pulans. There are often used saws on kijiji or craigslist which are way better.

Keep thinking that, please, that'll leave more Poulans for the folks who appreciate them.

Where is Modified Mark when we need him ;)?


get the pp375. equivalent to the 3700. great saw. paid $25 for mine and a little tweaking runs well.

The guy is asking $100.00, or a trade for a 32" TV (I posted a link in the eBay/CL thread). Maybe I could talk him into accepting our "retired" 14 year old 27" Magnavox :msp_unsure:....nah, my wife wouldn't like that trade :msp_ohmy:.


In my list I left off my Poulan (Craftsman) 2400.
 
Have Poulans improved similarly in the last 5 years? They never used to have fanboys.

Calling me "ignorant" and an "idiot" is pretty strong language just because I have found this brand of saws to be poor quality.

Gregg and barney: you list in your signature that you have Stihl's and Husqvarna's. Are you really telling me that a Poulan can hold a candle to your 385XP (Gregg)?
 
Have Poulans improved similarly in the last 5 years? They never used to have fanboys.

Calling me "ignorant" and an "idiot" is pretty strong language just because I have found this brand of saws to be poor quality.

Gregg and barney: you list in your signature that you have Stihl's and Husqvarna's. Are you really telling me that a Poulan can hold a candle to your 385XP (Gregg)?

I'm telling you that 505 in my sig will spank that 385 and the 5200/5400/8500 probably will too. Now, when you make a broad and uninformed statement you will receive these type of comments.

Know what you are talking about before you open your mouth.....
 

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