PowerSharp!!!!

[BloodOnTheIce]

We have had many requests from arborist/tree service companies for PowerSharp units, but the problem is compatibility, like Philbert mentioned, PowerSharp being currently limited to 3/8" low profile severely limits its application among professional users, who use saws like Stihl MS260, Husqvarna 346XP etc. Word is, around March they will have the .325 version out, adding compatibility for Oregon K095, D025 and D009 bar mounts. (I'm not 100% on the D009 mount, it may have been a typo, I don't know as I've ever seen a saw with a D009 mount that uses .325, although you could always convert it). Also, there's a big price drop on PowerSharp units being rolled out.

We've sold over 100 Power Sharp starter kits, and the two biggest complaints have been no .325 chain and the price. It looks like Oregon, and its distributor network are working on addressing both issues. I'll continue to stock them, and sell the hell out of them.

 

[BlacknTan]

I'm not knocking the system, but I just wish I could figure out how it works..

In a past life, I was a Tool&Die Maker. 40 years of it, so cutting edges are my baby!
We're all used to sharpening chain from the bottom up, so to speak. This system appears to sharpen from the top down.
The top of a traditional link has clearance toward the back. The top is in a downward angle from the face back. So we sharpen the radius back from the front and under the cutting edge to form a sharp wedge.
The cutters on the Oregon "system" chain seem severely angled on top toward the back, and the stone forms a radius as the chain runs around the nose of the bar against it. This radius, I assume is what forms the top clearance to provide wedging action. But, Is iot a true wedge, or is there a small area that rubs because the radius on the top of the cutter comes up on tangent? Not a 100% true wedging action.
Further, I don't see the "dressing link" as sufficient to dress the stone and keep the top cutting edge of the cutters flat, as the chain and stone wear together. To my way of thinking, the stone should be dressed across the full surface to provide a new cutting (or semi-cutting) edge to the chain. The chain and stone will degrade and deform together with each sharpening.
Now, all this may make little difference to the average user. He is still getting a reasonably sharp chain with a simple system that anyone can use. But, sharp is sharp, and no matter how small an area that just rubs, it's not sharp.
I may be all wrong in my assumptions about this, but I just can't wrap my head around how this system can provide a true cutting edge by matching radii between stone and cutter.. and even then in the first moments ofv the first sharpening until stone and cutter deform each other.

In any case.. this thread is interesting reading.

 

[PowerSharp Eng]

Past Thread explains some details on Powersharp

BlackTan

Just like you a lot of AS members had questions on PowerSharp chain when it first came out. There is an old thread that addresses many of the questions about the PowerSharp chain. The explainations begin on page 3.


http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/125402-4.htm

 

[BlacknTan]

BlackTan

Just like you a lot of AS members had questions on PowerSharp chain when it first came out. There is an old thread that addresses many of the questions about the PowerSharp chain. The explainations begin on page 3.


http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/125402-4.htm

Thanks!

I'm looking forward to learning more about the system..

 

[Philbert]

EDIT: This is a repaired link to the thread PowerSharp Eng referenced in Post#143, above:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/oregon-powersharp.125402/

I'm not knocking the system, but I just wish I could figure out how it works..! . . . We're all used to sharpening chain from the bottom up, so to speak. This system appears to sharpen from the top down. . . .I may be all wrong in my assumptions about this, but I just can't wrap my head around how this system can provide a true cutting edge by matching radii between stone and cutter. . .

I was pretty skeptical at first. Partially, because it violated everything I had learned about chain design, as you note, and partially, because I had an earlier version of the chain (20+ years ago) that only worked 'so-so'.

As for the cutting angle thing, I think about woodworking planes - smooth and block models. One cuts with the plane bevel face up, one with the plane bevel face down. They both cut the wood grain, but at different angles.

Theory aside, Oregon provided me with a sample to test, and it worked. I posted some of the early reviews here on A.S. I would not say that the PowerSharp chain is ideal for every need, but for general cutting it seems to work in a number of situations.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

On the Belt, On the Job

Their slogan is, 'On the Saw, On the Job, In Seconds'. But you can't sharpen the chain if you don't have the bar-end cassette with you. So, I have been keeping an eye out for a suitable belt pack to carry it.

Found this one at a garage sale, and have seen a similar one at Menard's. Fits pretty well. Looks like it might also work for smaller (8") wedges . Was also going to look at Army surplus stores, but haven't made it to any when they were open.

I think that an OEM version could include some improvements and make the PowerSharp system easier to use:

- make it simpler, without all the extra pockets that are not needed, and which will collect sawdust, etc.;

- put some holes in the bottom to let sawdust out;

- add a strap over the top with a Fastex type buckle to keep the cassette from falling out;

- add a sleeve on each side, with a Velcro flap, to carry a scrench.

Philbert

 

[s219]

You can get those belt pouches at Northern Tool for about $5. I bought one about two weeks ago. I found they can hold 2-3 wedges (8" max length as noted, but a 10 could work if you don't mind it sticking up a bit). There is also a decent place for a scrench in some narrow elastic sleeves inside the largest opening. Finally, a light hatchet hangs from the loop very nicely. The pouch comes with two sizes of belt loops and a metal clip (which I removed). The larger loop fits the belt on my Labonville chaps perfectly.

 

[tallfarmboy]

Thought I would dig this thread out of the cellar... In the Christmas giving thread, Philbert so kindly gifted a "slightly used" 16" Powersharp B&C to me! Thank you very much Philbert... Well, I wanted to share my experience with this cutting system.

First, I am using this bar and chain with an MS170 Stihl... not exactly a powerhouse of a saw... I have used it on 3 different trips cutting firewood and have been pleasantly surprised with the results.
The chain looks like it would be very aggressive and overly grabby in the wood with a small saw, but it turned out to be a very smooth and predictable chain in the wood. I have used it to limb a lot of hackberry, a lot of dead elm, and a little hedge here in SW MO. The chain loves the Hackberry... very smooth, big chips, and the saw (30cc) handled it very well. The dead elm and hedge were much harder wood and the lack of power in my saw showed it. From a chain hardness standpoint, this chain holds an edge VERY well. I don't know how many cuts I have made with it, but it is still throwing big chips. I did sharpen the chain one time just to see how it was done and, WOW that was easy... Judging by the amount of wear on the sharpening stone, I would guess I could get 12-15 sharpenings out of this chain.

Realize that the MS170 is nowhere near my "go-to" saw, but with this bar/chain on it, it has moved up in the pecking order a little in my opinion. It is pretty nice to not have to worry about having a file around and it is very easy to keep track of the sharpening tool by keeping it on the tip of your saw.
I think I'm going to MM this saw or maybe even do a little porting to it to utilize this bar/chain a little more..

Thanks again Philbert!
TFB

 

[Fish]

Yes, the saw I put mine on was a Poulan Pro that ran a .325 chain, and the extra power make the powersharp sing!.

 

[KiwiBro]

We have had many requests from arborist/tree service companies for PowerSharp units, but the problem is compatibility, like Philbert mentioned, PowerSharp being currently limited to 3/8" low profile severely limits its application among professional users, who use saws like Stihl MS260, Husqvarna 346XP etc. Word is, around March they will have the .325 version out, adding compatibility for Oregon K095, D025 and D009 bar mounts. (I'm not 100% on the D009 mount, it may have been a typo, I don't know as I've ever seen a saw with a D009 mount that uses .325, although you could always convert it). Also, there's a big price drop on PowerSharp units being rolled out.

Thanks.
I can see the case where owners would rather not muck about training or relying on, staff to sharpen properly and keep a sharp edge whenever practical. PowerSharp does subscribe to the KISS mantra in that regard and could very well end up saving enough time/hassle and being relatively productive to be worth it, but I do suspect that might only apply in comparison to the edge maintenance and sharpening work of mostly slack or incompetent staff, or speciality uses where one would otherwise be forever grinding rocked/nailed/metalled chains. This suspicion is obviously from someone who has never used the PowerSharp system, so I wouldn't call it a fully informed/experienced suspicion.

Until I become aware of switched-on people here down under cutting the sorts of woods we have (apart from Pinus Radiata) and raving about their PowerSharp system and the time/money/hassle it saves them, this Luddite will probably stick with his 'never run 'em dull, two-chain plan' (3/8LP .050 on all saws from MS241C down and 3/8 .063 on all others).

Again, as always, I'm happy to be proven wrong.

 

[dboyd351]

Powersharp combo discounted @ Home Depot

Just thought I'd pass on a Powersharp update. I was in Home Depot yesterday and walked by the outdoor power equipment section for a look see. The Powersharp kits that include the bar, chain and sharpener were marked down to $25 for the 14 inch size!!! I had just bought a 14" non-Powersharp Oregon brand bar and chain combo (combo #27856) at Lowes for $30. Both units were for small Poulan/Echo/Homelite, etc. applications. The 14" bar Stihl combos were the same price.

The Powersharp combos had a yellow sticker over the old price tag, which looked like it was indicating a sale price.

 

[rockandroller]

Hi all - and THANKS - this thread has been very helpful for me.

Total chainsaw noob here - bought an Echo 370 at HomeDepot, which seemed to come with the dullest, sloppiest OEM chain ever. Read the books, watched manufacturer's videos, set up the thing meticulously, carefully tightened as per instructions, etc etc. Wasted several hours trying to fell a few little birches with it. Cut down a few, but the chain kept stretching and slipping off, broke several drive teeth, smoked the bar a little.

Time to buy a new chain!

HomeDepot only offers the $12 chinese cheapo chains (probably what was on the saw originally) and I considered driving to the other side of town and paying $24 to get an Oregon chain instead. But then I realized I needed a sharpening set anyway, and - not wanting to risk putting a new chain on a slightly mangled bar - I decided to try the Powersharp system. (Since it comes with a new bar and a "sharpening kit"!)

Off to CanadianTire... and $80 bucks later, got the saw running again, now with Powersharp bar and chain.

Wow.

Like night and day. Not much stretching, took maybe 20 minutes to break-in the chain so it held tension. Excellent cutting performance. (Noticeably faster cutting than the stock chain provided when it was brand spanking new.)

I ran through two tanks of gas today, cut down about two dozen ice-bent birches (3-6 inch trunks) and bucked a couple of them before the second tank of gas ran out. Last cut seemed as clean as the first, lots of big square chips. This chain was tad more "grabby" than the stock chain, but easy enough to get used to for me. I like it a lot.
It will be interesting to see when I'll finally get to try out the sharpener ( maybe tomorrow?).

Incidentally, I have to say I'm liking this ECHO saw a lot. Lightweight, easy starting and it idles nice and smooth.

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

Hi all - and THANKS - this thread has been very helpful for me.

Total chainsaw noob here - bought an Echo 370 at HomeDepot, which seemed to come with the dullest, sloppiest OEM chain ever. Read the books, watched manufacturer's videos, set up the thing meticulously, carefully tightened as per instructions, etc etc. Wasted several hours trying to fell a few little birches with it. Cut down a few, but the chain kept stretching and slipping off, broke several drive teeth, smoked the bar a little.

Time to buy a new chain!

HomeDepot only offers the $12 chinese cheapo chains (probably what was on the saw originally) and I considered driving to the other side of town and paying $24 to get an Oregon chain instead. But then I realized I needed a sharpening set anyway, and - not wanting to risk putting a new chain on a slightly mangled bar - I decided to try the Powersharp system. (Since it comes with a new bar and a "sharpening kit"!)

Off to CanadianTire... and $80 bucks later, got the saw running again, now with Powersharp bar and chain.

Wow.

Like night and day. Not much stretching, took maybe 20 minutes to break-in the chain so it held tension. Excellent cutting performance. (Noticeably faster cutting than the stock chain provided when it was brand spanking new.)

I ran through two tanks of gas today, cut down about two dozen ice-bent birches (3-6 inch trunks) and bucked a couple of them before the second tank of gas ran out. Last cut seemed as clean as the first, lots of big square chips. This chain was tad more "grabby" than the stock chain, but easy enough to get used to for me. I like it a lot.
It will be interesting to see when I'll finally get to try out the sharpener ( maybe tomorrow?).

Incidentally, I have to say I'm liking this ECHO saw a lot. Lightweight, easy starting and it idles nice and smooth.

Welcome to AS!

IMO...you'll like how the chain cuts after a sharpening! I'm using the system on my Pouland 2550. I feel it does a great job!

 

[Philbert]

Light Storm Damage Clean-up

Helped a friend today cleaning up some trees from a wind event a week or so ago. Used the 40V Oregon saw with the PowerSharp system on wood up to about 6 inches in diameter, and a 16" PowerSharp bar & chain on my electric Makita chainsaw for the bigger stuff.

The chains cut aggressively through the wood. Had to noodle some of the bigger, crotch sections. My friend thinks that the trees were box elder. I really like PowerSharp / electric chainsaw combination for cutting like this.

Philbert

P.S. - so much for not being 'real' saws and chains!

(EDIT - replaced lost photos - should be similar to originals)

 

[Philbert]

Had a couple of PowerSharp questions sent to me by PM, so I thought I would post some of the info / tips here for others as well.

1. The PowerSharp chain has chisel cutters that actually bite fairly aggressively. Apparently, some people assume that it is a wimpy homeowner product that can't cut well.

2. The bevels on the cutters are 'upside down', but they are still chromed on the back side. Like the bevels on woodworking planes: block planes and smooth planes are opposite of each other, but each cuts if properly sharpened, and if the depth gauges are properly set.

3. The PowerSharp chain and stone need to be thought of as a matched pair, due to the wear pattern that develops. This may be obvious if you only have it on one saw. But if you have it on multiple saws, or cut with a friend who also uses it, you don't want to switch between different stones/cassettes. I marked the name of each saw on mine with labeling tape to keep them straight. When you replace a chain, replace the stone, and vice-versa.

4. For the same reason, always mount the sharpening cassette the same way on the bar. I always mount it with the lever on the same side as the bar nuts - easy for me to remember.

Philbert

 

[PowerSharp Eng]

Where's the chrome at?

Had a couple of PowerSharp questions sent to me by PM, so I thought I would post some of the info / tips here for others as well.
........
2. The bevels on the cutters are 'upside down', but they are still chromed on the back side. Like the bevels on woodworking planes: block planes and smooth planes are opposite of each other, but each cuts if properly sharpened, and if the depth gauges are properly set.
..........
Philbert

Thanks Philbert for posting the answers you gave to the PM's. The answers are right on track.

I wanted to add some detail to number 2 for those AS members that are curious about how the chrome layer works on the PowerSharp cutters.

The PowerSharp cutter is chromed on the twisted section that supports the cutting edges as shown in the picture.

The chrome on a PowerSharp cutter experiences forces from the wood that pushes it against the base steel so it does not chip off as fast and stays on longer, as shown in the picture .

Whereas the chrome on a standard cutter experiences forces from the wood that tends to push the chrome off the base steel in the form of very small flakes, as shown in the picture below.

Getting large pictures is a tricky process.

 

[Philbert]

How do I get the pictures larger???

Just ask!

Philbert

(EDIT - Hopefully PowerSharpEng can replace these lost illustrations)

 

[zogger]

@powersharp engineer

I believe, not sure, but believe, if you try to embed a picture that is too large, it only posts as a thumnail. I think your pics are just too large. Scale them down in half, then repost embedded, see what happens.

 

[dboyd351]

Just ask!

Philbert

Sure seems like that would help the chrome stay on better.

 

[zogger]

Hey Philbert, you ever try hand filing one of those yet? I havent, just wondering. I kept my worn out one, I need to look real close at it.