propagation from cuttings

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The three shats are of the lateral bud above the leaf stem. The leaf was cut off, and has now developed a dome of tender callus tissue, which will differentiate into root tissue over time. Root primordia is already forming in places along the lower stem.

The lateral bud is a meristematic growth region. Plant hormones called auxins concentrate in bud areas and control and stimulate elongation. If this cutting were on the tree, that would be fine. That is vegetative growth, That is life.

But, my little pet is in a yogurt cup being asked to set forth roots. The hormones that stimulate rooting are called cytokinins. What I see is is auxins being produced in a region where I want cytokinins.

The plant is stable and healthy, living in it's high-tech enviro-chamber.

I'm thinking of doing a little surgury, excising those two meristematic buds.

What do you think?
 
mrniceguy said:
Gumneck.....Please explain what stooling is and can I do it to a weeping higan cherry? Thanks! Joe.

Stooling is where you essentially are piling a mixture of soil/sand/mulch material over a trees/vines new growth in order to make that new growth send off roots. I've used it to reproduce apple trees/grapevines with great results. Keep in mind the tree produced will be an exact copy of the new growth where roots were formed. So if your weeping higgan cherry is on
rootstock, the new growth from the tips will be different. If it is grafted you can propagate the rootstock by taking a root cutting.

A trench or whole can be dug laying the cherry tree in it laying down on its side. Then begin covering up the tree with the s/s/m material continuously throughout growing season. I let the new growth just barely sit above the material. Then when its dormant brush/remove the material and you should have roots formed at various branch of new growth. Cut behind those roots and you have produced a copy.

If its a patented plant, keep it on the downlow.(not that I would ever violate a patent law)
 
I'll bite. Looks more like a plant.

I'll guess: how about a SquashEucalyptus!

Sorry.
 
Yer funny, Gumneck.

It's a tree. Grows at a phenomonal rate. The new branches are hollow and very fleshy. I'll have to swing back over there and take pics of the tree itself, as well as the bioremediation gardens at the bases of the trees. Fascinating stuff for a recycling freak like myself.

Keep guessing
 
TM

The suspense is killing me. Please give us the answer.

Tom
 
Stooling is where you essentially are piling a mixture of soil/sand/mulch material over a trees/vines new growth in order to make that new growth send off roots. I've used it to reproduce apple trees/grapevines with great results. Keep in mind the tree produced will be an exact copy of the new growth where roots were formed. So if your weeping higgan cherry is on
rootstock, the new growth from the tips will be different. If it is grafted you can propagate the rootstock by taking a root cutting.

A trench or whole can be dug laying the cherry tree in it laying down on its side. Then begin covering up the tree with the s/s/m material continuously throughout growing season. I let the new growth just barely sit above the material. Then when its dormant brush/remove the material and you should have roots formed at various branch of new growth. Cut behind those roots and you have produced a copy.

If its a patented plant, keep it on the downlow.(not that I would ever violate a patent law)
Question will that approach on fruit trees make fruit quicker on the clone?
Does the graft think its older than it is?
 
Question will that approach on fruit trees make fruit quicker on the clone?
Does the graft think its older than it is?

Good question. I dont think so but depending on what your trying to propagate is the key. I do it to produce rootstocks(apples,pears,peaches) or regenerate grapevines.

Lets assume its an apple.
The way I understand it is that If your top variety is lets say Fuji and you get the Fuji part of the tree to send off roots then the speed with which the new tree develops fruit spurs depends on that varieties characterstics(If Fuji ungrafted trees take 10 years to fruit than it will take 10 years).

Your second question...Kind of and depends on rootstock variety too. Although different cultivars develop fruitspurs faster than others, the rootstock makes the big difference with how soon a variety will fruit. I've had varieties of apples grafted on a dwarfing rootstock called Budhovsky #9 that developed spurs two years after grafting while still in a pot.

I hope I was clear and all should feel free to jump in,add to, correct, critique, send money etc.
Tom
 
Finally...I have been looking for discussions like this for a long time. Anyone have pictures of their mist beds and propagation set up? Can anyone recomend a mist system or heads?
 
Finally...I have been looking for discussions like this for a long time. Anyone have pictures of their mist beds and propagation set up? Can anyone recomend a mist system or heads?


http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=50151&highlight=mistbed

The green tip heads came from DRAMM. My timer and valves are actually a sprinkler type system that was in the house I bought. Luckily, I can adjust the timing to get very close to 8 seconds on time. Much more is too much for what I do.
 
So what's my tree? It's from Australia.
I wouldnt have known it was Australian. We have been plauged by them here since the 70's. You are right about their growth rate. They are an extremely invasive tree that will proliferate at the first oppurtunity.

Extremely fast growers. You could plant one when your kid is born and they will be able to climb in it when they are old enough.

We always refered to it as Pulpwood. I think it might be a Camphor ( cam - fer' ) tree. I dont recall any bugs in them except tiny red tree mites.
 

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