Rancher 55 crank seals and bearings - do I need special tools?

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monaco

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I'm about to do my first top end rebuild. I want to replace the crank bearings and seals too, just to be safe.

Will I need any special tools for this? What is the trick for getting them off, and getting the case split?
 
Flywheel should be fairly easy. Heat is your best friend here. A little PB blaster doesn't hurt any either. Undo the nut and start heating. Be sure to keep your torch moving, and watch out for the crankshaft itself; don't want to heat it up too much and ruin it. Many people simply hit the crank end with a rubber mallet or hammer w/ a wooden block. Doesn't matter as long as you don't screw your crank or its threads up. Sometimes it'll come off quite easily, but other times it'll be a pain.

When they're really stuck on there, this is what I've done in the past:

I assume the flywheel, like everyone I've seen, has threaded holes in it for the starter pawls or for removal. Put some long bolts in there and give them several turns in each. What I do is take the vice and clamp these two long bolts in between two wood blocks. I align the two bolts vertically equidistant from the center of where the vice's pads are (basically so both bolts have the same clamping force). Then take a drill and drill out the wood where the crank is (normally dead center where the pads are) so I can get a brass rod in there to hit the crank. What you're doing here is holding the flywheel stationary with the bolts and the vice, and pushing the powerhead away from it by hitting the crank. When I use the rod, I put a nut on the crank end, but not all the way on or flush. Let the nut take the beating and not the crank end.

If you want, let me know if you need me to take the flywheel off of my 55 and take pics of the process.

Matthew
 
For the flywheel puller, just make from a piece of plate. I think this was 1/2 plate, tapped center hole (or you can put a nut on the back side) and drill three holes to match the wheel. Don't go through too long with the bolts, don't hit the coil inside. Tighten the center bolt, rap on the head, tighten, rap again, maybe heat. It will bang and release.
The rest, I've never worked on one.
 

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Thanks for the tips, I got it off!

My bearings are good. I'd still like to replace the seals though.

Can I do that without splitting the case?
 
Well - no responses, I'm assuming I'd need a shop to split the crankcase to replace the seals and bearings.

I'd be doing it as a "just in case" measure.

I don't have special presses, pullers, etc. Is it worth $60 to have a local shop do this?

The bearings have no play and the seals look pretty good.
 
Seals can look good but still leak. You don't have to split to replace seals IIRC. I've always done bearings/seals in conjunction with each other so I may be wrong. You need to make or buy a tool to get the seals out if you decide not to split. There's threads here that show and explain how to do this.
 
You will also need to make or buy a tool to remove the oiler gear. Threads on here about that also.
 
A new challenge... the blasted worm gear... $70 tool!
 

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