Rare Grafted Elms

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Thanks!

This is the formula I used; so I used 7 of 8oz with a trunk circumference of 9ft
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Dear Sir,

The pictures you show are three splendid Ulmus glabra 'Camperdownii'. They originate from Camperdown Park, Dundee as a cultivar (not particularly these trees) and were distributed to nurseries world wide. There are many featured on Flickr.com. The original tree of which all Camperdown's have their origin is still in existence, growing in open woodland on the Camperdown Park estate which is now Dundee City Council property; the original tree is not huge in size, its a mere bush with a root graft. All other Camperdowns are stock grafted, usually onto Ulmus glabra, but occassionally other elms like Ulmue procera (English elm), Ulmus x hollandica 'Vegeta' (Huntington elm) and there have been some reports of possible stocks of Ulmus americana (American elm). The tree barely ever grows taller than 10m; the largest known trees to date reside in New Zealand. In Gothenburg, Sweden there was a cemetery with a field of the species (probably as many as 50 trees); these may still survive to this day (pictures are on Flickr.com look for Kviberg.) It is still readily available for sale as due to its size, it often avoids attack by the Dutch elm disease carrying beetle, Scolytae species. However as for its resistance other than this, the tree is quite easily succumbed to the disease and its virtually impossible to save a small tree once infected.
 
We're dealing with a fungus right?

Has anyone tried artificial lighting to mitigate the fungi's reproductive cycle?

You know electric UV light during the night time?

I tried mitigating a Ganoderma lucidum infection inside a hollow coastal live oak( Quercus agrifolia ) with the observable effect of the fruit bodies dying and drying up.

It was an ancient tree with structural splitting too far advanced to warrant cabling considering the extent of the Ganoderma infection.

There are spectrums of light that really mess with a fungi's ability to reproduce n grow larger IME.

jomoco
 
We're dealing with a fungus right?

Has anyone tried artificial lighting to mitigate the fungi's reproductive cycle?

You know electric UV light during the night time?

I tried mitigating a Ganoderma lucidum infection inside a hollow coastal live oak( Quercus agrifolia ) with the observable effect of the fruit bodies dying and drying up.

It was an ancient tree with structural splitting too far advanced to warrant cabling considering the extent of the Ganoderma infection.

There are spectrums of light that really mess with a fungi's ability to reproduce n grow larger IME.

jomoco
The fungus infects the vascular system. Transmitted by the elm bark beetle. Going to be kinda tuff to get the light into the xylem. Alamo works great.
 
Has the systemic actually saved infected trees that are now 5 years older and still living?

jomoco
 
I've heard of infecting trees purposefully with verticillium with some success being that the elm can fight off a verticillium infection naturally. That is for trees that are already suffering from ded. The disease kills so quickly it is difficult to systemically treat after in infection as the vascular system is so compromised.
 
Thanks for chiming in, I mostly knew all of what you had to say I have studied these trees extensively. I have even seen it grafted to its own native Wych Elm root stock here!

The issue I am treating is leaf miner and trunk borers which have been so drastically reduced we were concerned about foliage weight. The systemic application really does work! The only problem left is a cosmetic problem on the leaves there are mites.

This tree may potentially be living with DED but it is located in a wet sub-valley that gives it water supply year round, I have found a very large natural American Elm living in the woods off a railroad near me and sure enough a trickle stream runs right past its root flare!

My grafts have not done well I will need to try again next year, the root stock is a bit stressed out.
 
I've kicked butt on a few species of beetles. Specifically the Ips beetle from a heavily infested Jelecote pine, and western flathead borers infesting the trunks of Cal sycamores(Platanus racemosa).

Carbaryl' the active ingredient in Sevin powder, which I mix with water to a thick pancake batter like consistency, which I then apply to oneside of long six inch wide burlap strips about 15 feet long.

Then I wrap all the trunk wood and major branch scaffolding with the pancake side against the bark.

Kills Em comin n Goin quite effectively when sprayed with the hose every few weeks.

Drawbacks? The legality of usin Sevin powder for an off label use? The fact that carbaryl is toxic to fish and should not be used when the runoff reaches streams n lakes.

My current backyard experiment is using the same trunk wrapping method on an old orange tree infested with citrus borers. But I'm usin ground cigar butts in place of the sevin powder. Nicotine messes with insects too, not nearly the same punching power of carbaryl, but the ground cigars have killed the borers, in twice the time it took the sevin.

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jomoco
 
Cuttings are now available for sale on eBay from me! Simply search for Camperdown Elm Cuttings and you will find the only listing :)
 
I managed to uproot a small Wych elm before I fled Massachusetts last year haha, it was in the autumn and do to the stress it dropped its leaves early after potting it. I have tried several times to transplant a Wych elm over the last decade with no success but I think I am close this time! I have been babying this tree for the last 8 months, it stays inside with me in climate control and I make sure it never dries out for longer than 1 day. The top was cut last year as soon as I uprooted it which may not have been a good idea but I never learn...I will wait a few years before I re-cut and attempt a graft. It really does not get much light indoors where I have it, but for the last 6 months on average of 4 days a week I put it outside for the day in the direct Florida sunlight after watering it. I can tell it is 100% alive all the way to the top bud, they do not roll off the stem, the cut on the top is not dried out and I can see the bark just starting to roll over. The trunk itself is expanding, I can see it is GREEN in the vertical crack lines...but the buds will not open and I am getting impatient! What can I do to accelerate the success? More sun? Nutrients? Humidity? I need some seasoned advice please :)

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This is the main road leading into my town and I think all the ones in my town that were created in the early 1900s were taken from this tree literally horizontal from the tree I first posted and its HUGE. The mother tree :)
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I visited my hometown recently and my heart sank when I came over the hill and did not see this tree on the horizon. The new owners of this house have completely failed to recognize the significance of this tree, and appear to have gone on a wild tree cutting spree around the property.

R.I.P

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