Rare Grafted Elms

[PinkFloydEffect]

I shall do that then before they topcoat and seed it.

What I mean is it says not to apply when the ground is waterlogged, and not to "water in" the pesticide after application. In other words use only the amount of water used to delude/mix the solution during application, don't stand there with a hose after and water it. When the idea of giving it more water was brought to the table I figured every day, so I did not want to water it 1 day after application.

 

[Ed Roland]

I shall do that then before they topcoat and seed it.

What I mean is it says not to apply when the ground is waterlogged, and not to "water in" the pesticide after application. In other words use only the amount of water used to delude/mix the solution during application, don't stand there with a hose after and water it. When the idea of giving it more water was brought to the table I figured every day, so I did not want to water it 1 day after application.

Water stress is a two way street. Every day would be too much but you gotta know the stress on the system when so many roots are now nonfunctioning at the hottest part of the year.
Drought is a mighty stressor. Hacking away 1/3 the roots is a mighty stressor, too. Combine mighty stressors and you get tree mortality. Keep the tree properly watered.

In the Fall - water the soil one day and apply chemical the next. Resume proper irrigation after you are sure of uptake - several days. Months down the road the chemical should have translocated upward giving control of the target pest when it is most susceptible.

You can also look into spending more $ by having an experienced applicator apply paclobutrazol in an effort to increase root density. There would be other benefits to the treatment as well.

 

[PinkFloydEffect]

More money is not an option right now, I would say all in all MAYBE 1/4 of the roots were affected and those are within 3ft not the lower roots (there are tons more then 3X what you see holding up this tree).

It says it takes 1 week to 3 month's for larger trees to uptake.

 

[PinkFloydEffect]

I applied the Bonide today since we have had such a warm few weeks, the circumference is about 9'6" so I mixed up 114 FL.oz. in 3 gallons of water (38oz. per gallon). I did 3 rings around the tree, one at 1ft, one at about 2.5ft and another around about 4ft. Well see if the leaf miners come back this year!

 

[ROOTSXROCKS]

Glad to see you still at it PFE

 

[ROPECLIMBER]

Nice Pictures
I read the entire post and (trying to be nice) It reminded me of working on a rare car in a dirt floor garage with no manual an a sledge hammer and a pair a pliers, "loving the tree to death"
Hot munure bagged compost on bare roots.(root burn)
Watering every day (over watering an already stressed tree does more harm than good (Transperational pull)
Jagged trim back of (epecormic) roots (Delays compartmentalization process and exposes more area to new pathogens)
Digging into decay and hollows (Exposes pathogens to alreaddy walled off areas)CODIT
Trimming shoot tips (exposing trunk to sunscald) and eliminated natural root growth hormones that are produced in tips
removing bark letting any remaining live pyrincima cells dry and dye too (Shigo)
The true root line of a tree goes far beyond the actual canopy, so the backhoe probably severed 45% of support and absorption roots.
The whole thread something said gas leak
They Should have tunneled under with new gas line,
Ancient trees grow in remote areas where we wont love them to death,
I will probably get crucified for this post but felt compelled to share

 

[ROOTSXROCKS]

hey were have you been for two years Rope ?
I had concerns about the exposure of the root but was listening to the advice of treeseer . I certainly don't have the expertise to butt in .
Your comments seem to have some valid science behind them.
maybe you could comment on my crotch questions and Ill update with the progress thus far on my experiment. http://www.arboristsite.com/arborist-101/165892.htm


Damn Pink I just saw the Gas destruction (i was gone to ban camp ) sorry that city workers are idiots sometimes Ill bet you were pissed .

 

[PinkFloydEffect]

The gas line was deff a fiasco, I made sure to document it well. If the tree fails this year I'm going to try to use the photos against the gas company and collect some sort of composition for their cheap sloppy work (refused to re-sleeve the pipe, etc.)

If the leaves do not curl up and yellow this summer then I am making progress!

Some may think my surface root removal was harsh but if a tree WANTS to be saved it will work with you, its a very fine line when to know when to leave a tree alone (too far past correction). I may have crossed that line, but it seems strong enough to cope with the corrections which SHOULD benefit it for the long-term without flare suffocation. I do not recall really removing live bark

I need to get to the bottom of what is boring into the wounds where the tree had lost large limbs, that's what is causing extreme fluxing which is burning the bark on one side of the trunk as is drips down....

 

[himiler]

Good to see you still at it PFE. You might say the Camperdown fan club has reconvened now that you're posting again. Looking forward to the continuing saga although the latest news isn't what I wanted to hear.
Steve

 

[PinkFloydEffect]

Good to see you still at it PFE. You might say the Camperdown fan club has reconvened now that you're posting again. Looking forward to the continuing saga although the latest news isn't what I wanted to hear.
Steve

I'm really happy to see my research and work is followed up on by so many of you, it's going to be a long summer guys! I'm working on starting a camperdown nursery I already have the land allotted to me I just need to start my rows of potted Wych Elms. A completely, successfully grafted camperdown could bring upwards of $500+ USD per tree (@ roughly 6ft) since the market is not flooded with them the price is exotic.


Since you guys are eating up the media here are some more photos of another Camperdown, diagonally across from the Heywood Mansion Caperdown (largest in Gardner). I took them last year, I know I seem to be posting a lot of Camperdowns for a "rare tree" but by no means are these popular go look for yourself and you will see. I just happen to live in an area where there was a Johnny Appleseed of the Camperdowns at one time and I am trying to be that second generation "CamperdownER" spreading the second generation of them. This is on a very nice piece of property like I said digonally across from the Heywood Mansion:

The graft meet is spotless, probably chosen from a selection for it's location:

 

[twofusion]

cool thread. Good luck and I will continue to follow your updates.

 

[PinkFloydEffect]

New Generation

SO, I visited the "Heywood Mansion" camperdown previously shown in this thread since I am friends with the property owner. Since I did not have any luck with cloning a base stock (wych elm) I located a handful of seedlings around the tree itself (there are none around other camperdowns; only shooters which roots come from the tree) this Heywood campedown has a large 5 foot tall shooter which probably spawned these seedlings years ago (some hundreds of feet away). Dominate wych elm is even rarer than camperdowns around here:

They are all dominate wych elm, great and hard to find base stock!

 

[PinkFloydEffect]

I will probably wait until next year to graft them once they have established themselves in the pots, I may try one (not sure if times of year make a difference for grafting) I'm going to research up some fruit grafting material since there is none on camperdowns. This is my plan so far though, cut the main leader leaving a branch or two below it with vigorous leafs to continue photosynthesis during the grafting then the branch can be removed once the top has taken and begun to thrive off the main leader:

 

[PinkFloydEffect]

Aside from the new generation of camperdowns....back to my project tree. The trunk is getting worse and I am almost certain the fluxing is not a borer its just an elm heartwood infection which is incurable. The pictures are 2 years ago and then now:

The rest of the tree, healthy! I have made the decision it would be wise to insert some plastic drain tubes to releave the pressure and safe the bark, which I read is to be 1ft below the exit wound. Two spots on the trunk and possibly a third on this limb wound unless I find the lower, larger trunk wound tubes releave pressure from the upper wounds as well (entire heartwood drain):

Nice looking moss but it's probably doing more harm then help haha:

 

[PinkFloydEffect]

Seeing how everyone is quiet I'm going to keep on trolling haha I have another set of comparisons exactly 2 years apart, you can see that Bonide really helped! I would say 90% of the leaf miners are no longer active, maybe I need a higher dosage or it takes 2 years to reach all ends, works better on each annual application?

Overall the tree is much greener and less crispy, but the miners ARE present still. Either way I am impressed with the results but time will tell how green it is come fall time.

 

[ROOTSXROCKS]

Glad to see you carry through with this project, that reminds me I need to update my crotch pictures .

 

[PinkFloydEffect]

...that reminds me I need to update my crotch pictures .

LOL

I deff made a dramatic difference in the health, but it freed up more green leaf surface area for this OTHER problem (mites??) As you can see still some minor mining but drastically improved overall, what are these tall yellowish things pointing up?!

Whatever it is it's population exploded this year, identification HELP!?

 

[NCTREE]

They look like galls to me idon't think they are hurting the tree it's just cosmetic.

Insect and Mite Galls

 

[PinkFloydEffect]

They look like galls to me idon't think they are hurting the tree it's just cosmetic.

Insect and Mite Galls

Thanks! They seem to match their description, I tracked them down to a spinal gall or pouch gall. As long as they are just cosmetic but...is there a cheap drench that will kill them anyway?

 

[sgreanbeans]

U could try horti oil, just put a thin coat on, get it at a good nursery. I would put a positive ID on those galls first. Ask JPS, he will know of the top of his head exactly which one that is.