gr8scott72
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sorry. Don't have a clue. That was many years ago and I'm not even in the business anymore. I do remember it being very hard to keep tight enough to keep from slipping.
Rayco 1625 belt woes
- Thread starter gr8scott72
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Sorry. Don't have a clue. That was many years ago and I'm not even in the business anymore. I do remember it being very hard to keep tight enough to keep from slipping.
MSgtBob66
ArboristSite Operative
Per the owner's manual (my machine is a 1999): the cutting wheel be free to rotate (off the ground ), remove hole plug in guard, belt should deflect 1/4" when 15-18 lbs is applied. Use 18-20 lbs with a new belt.
MSgtBob66
ArboristSite Operative
I can't post a pic of the manual! My issue has been the v-belts, the chinese junk I get from CarQuest need constant attention to tension, but it is manageable. I run 700 series Green Teeth, they smoke the Rayco Super teeth. If you resharpen the, use a wet system. I cooked 4 sets of teeth using the recommended dry system Green says to use. I rigged up a wet system with a parts washer, messy but new teeth!
Bendigonian
ArboristSite Lurker
I'm in the process of upgrading the RG1625 ( early 2000's ) now. The jackshaft is corroded and worn so I'll have to turn a new one out of some 40mm truck S cam shaft I have. Someone didn't do up the grubscrews on the bearings and I think one of them spun, wearing out the shaft. They hadn't been moved in years. One grubscrew was so seized that, after breaking three impact bits, I cut the grubscrew out with an angle grinder. The bearing housings were knackered anyway. I don't care what Rayco or everyone else reckons, pillowblock housings and bearings only need a few grams of grease every 500 to 1000 hours. Any more and it just wrecks the seal on the bearing and overgreases the pillowblock housing. You only need enough grease to help the bearing align .. no more. Otherwise the bearing starts spinning in the housing which rapidly wears out. Perhaps these pillowblocks and bearings aren't original. All I know is that there was grease everywhere and the bearing had spun and worn out the housing.
The American QD style taper bushings were an absolute pain. Ok, you pull out the three bolts and insert in the other holes to break the taper hold. But then you find the the bolts have stretched over the years and are no longer UNC. Then you break one putting too much grunt onto a weakened and stretched 5/16" bolt. Then you go to shop and get three 1.5" UNC hi-tensile bolts and eventually it gives way. Not before one of the hi-tensiles bends under the load. Then you find that the cutter pulley has the QD reversed so you need 2" 5/16 UNC hi-tensiles; the 1.5"s won't screw far enough into the reversed taper lock housing to break the taper, and I wouldn't trust the original bolts. Not sure why Rayco did that. Back to the shop. When it's reversed the QD housing doesn't have the three clearance holes drilled like the forward facing QD so the breaking bolts coming from the other way have something to push against.
As you can see from the pic, I'm using the good old British taper lock. Never had a problem with them and no need for reversing.
Both pulleys were knackered. The cutter puller was obviously worn by sight. With the jackshaft pulley I set the vernier caliper to the top width of the tooth near the flange, locked it and then ran it along the top of the tooth. It sank a few mm in the middle of the tooth which seems to indicate a fair bit of wear even 'tho it's not totally obvious to the naked eye and it's hard to put a straight edge on it with the flanges in the way.
Got new Optibelt HTD pulleys from ptparts in Northcote Melbourne Australia and online. Order online even if you want to pickup direct. They seem to have a much higher counter price than eshop price. AUD$98 for the 28T 14M 40 and AUD$132 for the 32T 14M 40. AUD$297 for an 1190 14M 40 85T belt. Seems a bit steep but Optibelt are supposed to be pretty sturdy. I'll see how the existing (new) Mitsuboshi goes. Optibelt also supply High Strength timing belts too, about $AUD500 or very high strength for over a thousand !!!
The flanges on the 28T pulley are a lot smaller than the standard, (see the pic). This may make it easier to get a new belt on without pulling the pulleys. We'll see.
If this belt doesn't give good service I may go to dual B pulleys or triple A section. The HTD pulleys are about 54mm deep. I reckon you maybe could fit a triple B section pulley there. It would be touch and go. Double B no problem.
It may happen. I am also re-motoring.
I retired the Kohler, the bores were within a couple of thou of maximum wear and I think the valve guides might need replacing (if possible). The bores were worn but showed no sign of taper or ovalling. Pretty impressive Mr Kohler. Old and worn out but still chugging along. Bit like me actually
I've gone for a 33hp Chinee motor from Jonno and Johno in Ballarat and online. (AUD$2599 including muffler and big filter ). In Australia 33hp Kohlers are AUD$4000 or so and 37 hp Vanguards are AUD$5000 odd.
There's no reviews for the 1000cc but quite a few good one's for the 850cc. We'll see how it handles 3/4 power for extended periods. The 33hp gives 61nM at 3000 rpm and the Ogura clutch is good for 271nM. Hopefully the triple A section belts on the primary drive (Optiplex VB series), will handle the load. Optiplex (ptparts) can also supply higher strength A section belts too.
The motor fits suprisingly well. The PTO is the right diameter and length ( give or take a few mm ) and the right height above base line. I did have to put the PTO hydraulic pulley in the lathe and give it a good inner chamfer. The Chinee motor had a more generous fillet on the PTO shaft and the pulley didn't seat properly. I also took 4 or 5 mm off the inner boss of the pulley as the Chinee crankcase seemed to poke out a bit more than the Kohler and I had to do that to make the two hydraulic pulleys align. The two inner round mounting holes line up with the far mounting slots on the mounting plate with good adjustment scope. But I do think that I'll have to extend the nearer slots 30 or 40 mm forward and back. The 1000cc's PTO side mount holes are a little wider than the Kohler. Not a massive job.
It looks very pretty, all new and black and chrome.
The American QD style taper bushings were an absolute pain. Ok, you pull out the three bolts and insert in the other holes to break the taper hold. But then you find the the bolts have stretched over the years and are no longer UNC. Then you break one putting too much grunt onto a weakened and stretched 5/16" bolt. Then you go to shop and get three 1.5" UNC hi-tensile bolts and eventually it gives way. Not before one of the hi-tensiles bends under the load. Then you find that the cutter pulley has the QD reversed so you need 2" 5/16 UNC hi-tensiles; the 1.5"s won't screw far enough into the reversed taper lock housing to break the taper, and I wouldn't trust the original bolts. Not sure why Rayco did that. Back to the shop. When it's reversed the QD housing doesn't have the three clearance holes drilled like the forward facing QD so the breaking bolts coming from the other way have something to push against.
As you can see from the pic, I'm using the good old British taper lock. Never had a problem with them and no need for reversing.
Both pulleys were knackered. The cutter puller was obviously worn by sight. With the jackshaft pulley I set the vernier caliper to the top width of the tooth near the flange, locked it and then ran it along the top of the tooth. It sank a few mm in the middle of the tooth which seems to indicate a fair bit of wear even 'tho it's not totally obvious to the naked eye and it's hard to put a straight edge on it with the flanges in the way.
Got new Optibelt HTD pulleys from ptparts in Northcote Melbourne Australia and online. Order online even if you want to pickup direct. They seem to have a much higher counter price than eshop price. AUD$98 for the 28T 14M 40 and AUD$132 for the 32T 14M 40. AUD$297 for an 1190 14M 40 85T belt. Seems a bit steep but Optibelt are supposed to be pretty sturdy. I'll see how the existing (new) Mitsuboshi goes. Optibelt also supply High Strength timing belts too, about $AUD500 or very high strength for over a thousand !!!
The flanges on the 28T pulley are a lot smaller than the standard, (see the pic). This may make it easier to get a new belt on without pulling the pulleys. We'll see.
If this belt doesn't give good service I may go to dual B pulleys or triple A section. The HTD pulleys are about 54mm deep. I reckon you maybe could fit a triple B section pulley there. It would be touch and go. Double B no problem.
It may happen. I am also re-motoring.
I retired the Kohler, the bores were within a couple of thou of maximum wear and I think the valve guides might need replacing (if possible). The bores were worn but showed no sign of taper or ovalling. Pretty impressive Mr Kohler. Old and worn out but still chugging along. Bit like me actually
I've gone for a 33hp Chinee motor from Jonno and Johno in Ballarat and online. (AUD$2599 including muffler and big filter ). In Australia 33hp Kohlers are AUD$4000 or so and 37 hp Vanguards are AUD$5000 odd.
There's no reviews for the 1000cc but quite a few good one's for the 850cc. We'll see how it handles 3/4 power for extended periods. The 33hp gives 61nM at 3000 rpm and the Ogura clutch is good for 271nM. Hopefully the triple A section belts on the primary drive (Optiplex VB series), will handle the load. Optiplex (ptparts) can also supply higher strength A section belts too.
The motor fits suprisingly well. The PTO is the right diameter and length ( give or take a few mm ) and the right height above base line. I did have to put the PTO hydraulic pulley in the lathe and give it a good inner chamfer. The Chinee motor had a more generous fillet on the PTO shaft and the pulley didn't seat properly. I also took 4 or 5 mm off the inner boss of the pulley as the Chinee crankcase seemed to poke out a bit more than the Kohler and I had to do that to make the two hydraulic pulleys align. The two inner round mounting holes line up with the far mounting slots on the mounting plate with good adjustment scope. But I do think that I'll have to extend the nearer slots 30 or 40 mm forward and back. The 1000cc's PTO side mount holes are a little wider than the Kohler. Not a massive job.
It looks very pretty, all new and black and chrome.
![A17[1].jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/arboristsite/data/attachments/794/794474-1ac7d6b71755617299df06d9289bf202.jpg)
