SuperDuty04
ArboristSite Guru
He gets deals like this through the university all the time tho. He bought a Chevy sedan that had 1400 miles for a thousand bucks. I got a 6 holder kayak trailer for $100 from the same place.
Really really really want a tractor
- Thread starter husky455rancher
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Oh my wife wants a “farm” not really specific other than “farm” I would more land but I have a pretty small mortgage by todays standards, which allows me to buy stupid things that I don’t really need.
Thank you sir
"....which allows me to buy stupid things that I don’t really need."
Okay, I'm puzzled--what's that got to do with buying a tractor?
One thing I don't think I saw mentioned--is your land flat? If so then one doesn't really need 4WD, and then some of the older farm tractors, if found well maintained, can be a lot more solid than a lot of this new stuff. Say like an IH 504 Utility diesel. I have no idea how one could destroy one of those.
Okay, I'm puzzled--what's that got to do with buying a tractor?
One thing I don't think I saw mentioned--is your land flat? If so then one doesn't really need 4WD, and then some of the older farm tractors, if found well maintained, can be a lot more solid than a lot of this new stuff. Say like an IH 504 Utility diesel. I have no idea how one could destroy one of those.
yeah it’s pretty flat. There is a steep hill on k e side but if I drive to the other side of the house it’s a much more gentle incline.
iceclimber
ArboristSite Lurker
Nothing wrong with stick shift. All I have every had on my tractors. Did have shuttle on. 580 Case backhoe.
I bought my last tractor in 2005. A 243 Massey-Ferguson . Has 52hp, and 49 pto hp. Went to East Texas to get it. Dealer had 12 of them in an outbuilding. It was 20,000.00 with frontend loader, and dual remote rear hydraulics. Been a great tractor all these years.
laynes69
Addicted to ArboristSite
I picked up a 2820D Yanmar for 11,500 out the door with a new front loader and a 6' brush mower. It's a grey market tractor that was rebuilt and sandblasted and repainted. Runs and looks like new, a real workhorse. There's deals out there, you just have to look. A Kubota equivalent would cost me around 26k. Always go bigger (more HP) and 4 wheel drive is a must. This is my 1983 tractor. 
Got a few more numbers today and waiting in the bobcat numbers. The 2800 difference between the 2610 and 3510 all said and done. Third function is a grand. Not sure if I can add that on myself for less or not I have to look into it. I’d like a grapple but not sure it’s in the budget at this time. The grapple is another 2500 on top of the third function. 5’ brush hog brand tiller is 2500 and brush hog brand box blade is 1k. Trying to decide on attachments as well.
A universal 3rd function kit is around $500. Summit's includes a high quality joystick handle with buttons. You'll need to fab a couple brackets and buy hydraulic hose not included in the kit.
Ryan'smilling
Addicted to ArboristSite
I installed this kit to give my tractor hydraulics for running a grapple. It's a diverter, which personally is what I'd prefer instead of a "true third function" because I can feather the action of the grapple. It does require buying some hoses and fittings, but the price is great. You can diy it even cheaper, but I'm not that good.
https://www.boltonhooks.com/product/the-ultimate-diverter-valve-kit/
Also, for $2500 I'd really be looking hard at an everything attachments grapple instead. They're light and designed for use on compact tractors. A heavy skid loader grapple sucks on a cut.
That's why I prefer a bale spear rather than a grapple on a bucket. It's WAY lighter and MUCH faster. It has drawbacks, but they are relatively minor.
A double spear can be used as forks in a pinch too.
Overbuilt is just as much of a problem as underbuilt, imo.
the loader on my Deutz could destroy itself and the tractor if you aren't careful, for example. It could lift way more than it could realistically handle, which is not a common problem with farm loaders.
A double spear can be used as forks in a pinch too.
Overbuilt is just as much of a problem as underbuilt, imo.
the loader on my Deutz could destroy itself and the tractor if you aren't careful, for example. It could lift way more than it could realistically handle, which is not a common problem with farm loaders.
The EA grapple is good. Many skid steer grapples weigh hundreds of pounds more which takes away from the net lifting capacity. I've exceeded capacity a number of times.
I have my EA grapple connected to a rear remote. I can feather with it but I never do. I just keep it on until the lids stop crushing whatever is in them. A 3rd function would work fine for me. I'll make one someday.
You'd be hard pressed to find all the components in Kenny's diverter kit linked above for significantly less money.
I have my EA grapple connected to a rear remote. I can feather with it but I never do. I just keep it on until the lids stop crushing whatever is in them. A 3rd function would work fine for me. I'll make one someday.
You'd be hard pressed to find all the components in Kenny's diverter kit linked above for significantly less money.
As long as the remote levers are conveniently placed, there's not a whole lot of benefit for the cost compared to a "third function" button. The remote lever is fine albeit a little less "ergonomic". Unless you are in a super duper hurry all the time. In that case you will create more to worry about..
This stuff is all new to me guys so I really appreciate the info!
h455r, you are doing the right thing to put a lot thought into it before you buy as things add up in a hurry. Prioritize what you plan to do with the machine then spec from there. Same for attachments. Do your homework and when you have a general idea ask a friend or two to help with a search.
I determined that mine would be used the most for moving and loading logs, so it need to be easily transported on my existing trailer, agile to fit in yards and the woods, and with significant lift capacity. I toyed with a small skid steer but there aren't many under 6000#. For that and other reasons I decided on a tractor. The size and weight limitations quickly eliminated the more-bang-for-your-buck farm tractor. As I dug into loader specs, it was easy to see that only the larger compacts could handle the size logs I regularly cut. Given the costs, I bought an older large compact tractor that needed a lot of attention but had a loader and auxiliary hydraulics. I then turned my attention to a grapple and soon found they were very expensive and many prohibitively heavy. I narrowed the field to the Everything Attachment Wicked Root Grapple and the Rural King Granite Grapple, but both were between $2500 and $3000. A friend spotted on FB an ad from Southern Implement Depot for the grapple pictured below. Though it doesn't have a500 steel it was fairly light and plenty strong for my application of picking up and moving logs and the occasional brush gathering and piling. The delivered cost was under $1000. I have been very pleased with it although I had to have the cylinder attachments re-welded due to inadequate penetration. I came to appreciate the two thumbs over the rather standard long wide thumb. As a cautionary tale: The wood ministry that I cut for, purchased a slightly smaller capacity tractor, spend a chunk of change at a dealership having a factory third function installed, and then bought a $1350 rock grapple locally only to find that there was very little lift capacity left. They replace the grapple with a set of forks and do the same jobs as I do just differently and with less maneuverability. The third function has no function with their set-up.
The Southern Implement Depot no longer list prices. This is like the one I bought except I splurged a little to get one in my tractor's color.
Ron
I’m was talking to the mrs about it last night and she made a good point. If I stepped down in size a bit to my original plan of a sub compact I could get the loader,mower deck and a backhoe ad opposed to the compact with just the loader. I’m sure the backhoe would be handy at times but I don’t see it getting a ton of use. We’ll at least not at this time. I def could make the subcompact work. I always tend to go for overkill more often than not it’s just my nature I suppose.
So now I’m more conflicted than when I started looking.
So now I’m more conflicted than when I started looking.
Sportfury70
ArboristSite Operative
A backhoe on a scut is little more than rear ballast. It’s fine for a garden or some very light duty digging, but for those few times you really need a backhoe it won’t give you what you need.
However, if you plan to use it to mow and move material, the scut is great. The whole reason I have mine is because I have a large yard to mow and a bunch of uses for the loader. It’s perfect for my 3ish acres of land. I still have to go around with the push mower to clean up the tight turns tho. A cut would be too big for it to be my primary mower, too many places it wouldn’t fit.
If mowing is not needed, GET THE LRGER TRACTOR! I was considering a bigger one and keeping my little husky ride-on, this one works better for me. Based on what you’ve said in this thread, I think a larger will work better for you.
Oh, and used implements are more common, at least in my area, for the larger tractors. Another thing to consider.
However, if you plan to use it to mow and move material, the scut is great. The whole reason I have mine is because I have a large yard to mow and a bunch of uses for the loader. It’s perfect for my 3ish acres of land. I still have to go around with the push mower to clean up the tight turns tho. A cut would be too big for it to be my primary mower, too many places it wouldn’t fit.
If mowing is not needed, GET THE LRGER TRACTOR! I was considering a bigger one and keeping my little husky ride-on, this one works better for me. Based on what you’ve said in this thread, I think a larger will work better for you.
Oh, and used implements are more common, at least in my area, for the larger tractors. Another thing to consider.
Ryan'smilling
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here's my take. If you wanna play with a backhoe, rent a mini a couple times. They're super fun and very handy. For serious digging, hire someone with insurance and skills. The guys who clock hours on those machines are orders of magnitude more productive.
About the mower: they're too much money for what they are. The price of a mid mount mower deck on a SCUT is about the same as a decent zero turn, which will mow better. Worst part about a MMM is that you're just about stuck with it. They're pretty much tractor specific, so you can't just sell it to anybody, like you could with a zero turn.
I don't mean to disagree with your wife, but if you want a loader for much over 500# or much pulling power, a CUT is a better buy.
Defdice
ArboristSite Lurker
I have been watching this thread for a while. I live on 40 acres that are 95 percent wooded with about a 1/3 acre "lawn" and have a massey GC1720. I don't use it for mowing the lawn as it is too heavy and ruts up and kills the grass. It is doable if you remove the loader and backhoe and have turf tires (or use it on drier ground/lawn), but I don't think its worth the money or hassle. I use the backhoe more than the loader, such as for digging/maintaining ditches, loosing dirt before moving it with the loader, digging holes, have a ripper tooth for roots and stumps, etc. Mostly I use it for skidding logs. I have a thumb on it and can pick up very large (in my opinion - 10ft by 18in pine logs) and place them on my raised chainsaw mill platform. Also, I hook up log tongs to the hoe bucket or ripper tooth for the bigger logs, and I put 2 hooks on either side of the front loader bucket to attach 2 log tongs to (having the weight closer to the pivot point really helps in picking up even larger logs as well). It is true that the backhoe is great ballast, my buddy has a larger Bobcat that he had to fill the tires with antifreeze and is always having to add more ballast to use his loader to full capacity - although more weight equals more damage to the ground.
Have I looked at the larger front end lift capacities of other tractors with a little bit of envy - yes. Have I ever needed more lift capacity - no. Not knocking bigger tractors, just giving my experience. If you're "just gonna use it to do my tree length firewood and log moving and clean up my yard and do some landscaping" then don't disregard scuts
Have I looked at the larger front end lift capacities of other tractors with a little bit of envy - yes. Have I ever needed more lift capacity - no. Not knocking bigger tractors, just giving my experience. If you're "just gonna use it to do my tree length firewood and log moving and clean up my yard and do some landscaping" then don't disregard scuts
Attachments
This seems to have become a conversation about manual vs hydrostat transmissions.
Manual transmissions last longer, operate with less friction and consequently, have lower operating expenses. They are also much less expensive to repair when you have a driveline failure. They are also vastly more precise with respect to ground speed, which can be very important to operations like spraying herbicides.
Hydrostatic transmissions are considerably more efficient with respect to any kind of operation involving frequent changes of speed or direction. Loader operation, mowing, and just general utility work are way easier and faster with a hydrostatic driveline. Any kind of work that involves clutch-eating jobs like the gradual application of maximum force against a load will almost mandate having a hydrostatic tranny, and they are much better for any sort of job that requires slow, precise control of the machine. That being said, some machines have really crappy controls, and the hydrostatic transmission can also become the biggest problem on a jerky, out of control machine.
