What carb did you use. Tilly HS number?.
Sucking air at crank seals and/or oiler check maybe.
Raise metering lever a touch first.
Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)
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What carb did you use. Tilly HS number?.
Sucking air at crank seals and/or oiler check maybe.
Raise metering lever a touch first.
happysaws
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Carb I used is a Tilly HS19A.
I'll try the metering lever when I get a chance.
Decided to "just" change the fuel line from the tank to carb...
Easy, like changing an AC evaporator on a Chrysler product.
New heater core in a '67 vet with AC? BTDT
happysaws
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I put the PL7 back together,
It has all new: fuel line, carb kit, pickup filter.
I did fiddle with the inlet lever, too.
Still runs lean after it gets hot. It will make 4-5 cuts with plenty of smoke, then on the 6th or so cut it runs lean with no smoke and shuts off.
Any more ideas?
It has all new: fuel line, carb kit, pickup filter.
I did fiddle with the inlet lever, too.
Still runs lean after it gets hot. It will make 4-5 cuts with plenty of smoke, then on the 6th or so cut it runs lean with no smoke and shuts off.
Any more ideas?
happysaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
All good (for now anyways), runs like a champ... Had a crappy spark plug.
I still can't get the high speed under 9500 rpm, no matter where the high speed screw is.
Not too concerned about this, as long as it doesn't run lean...always gonna run 16:1 in it I guess.
9500! [emoji15]
happysaws
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It was leaning out with the high open 3 full turns at 10,500.
The slower the better, I don't want to have to find a new piston!
When the Remy manuals say max speed of 9000rpm, do they mean in the wood or free-spinning??
No load max rpm.
happysaws
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Okay.
happysaws
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The plug I had in the PL7 was gapped correctly and produced consistant, hot blue spark.
I only changed it to rule out another problem. Once I did, the saw no longer ran lean. The carb settings remained unchanged. I went from a Champion J6J to a CJ6.
Why would a "bad" plug make the saw run lean?
I only changed it to rule out another problem. Once I did, the saw no longer ran lean. The carb settings remained unchanged. I went from a Champion J6J to a CJ6.
Why would a "bad" plug make the saw run lean?
Acres has the max engine speed of the PL5 (my saw) at only 6500 and yet the PL4 is rated at 9500. Would there be that much difference between a 59cc saw and a 65cc saw of the same design?
happysaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
No.
I have both. They both run around 9500 no load. I've never measured rpm under load, but I'd be willing to bet it's right around 6500. 6cc's will not make that great of a difference, especially since virtually everything else on those 2 saws are identical.
One valuable thing I've realized on these old saws ( with the help of a nearby buddy)--change the damned seals. All the tuning, timing, fuel lines, carb kits don't matter when the seals are leaking. After all, the Remy is probably 50 years and the rubber fuel line has likely failed at least once. Why wouldn't the rubber seals fail as well?
Being old American made, it will easy to match seals.
Chris B.
Being old American made, it will easy to match seals.
Chris B.
ChipsFlyin
ArboristSite Guru
happysaws
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I would be all over that like stink on a pig, but that's too long of a drive for one saw....
ChipsFlyin
ArboristSite Guru
I just used up the last of my fun money on th 797.
. Time to reload the stash.
happysaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm planning on retrofitting a modern .404" sprocket on a Remy S660G, how many teeth would you all suggest? It had a 7/16" 7 pin on it, I'm thinking of trying a .404" 9 pin. Would like to run up to a 30" bar on it. Thanks for any suggestions!
First of all, good luck finding an Oregon rim drive setup for one.[emoji849]
Secondly stick with a .404" x 7.
Third, .404" x .058" gauge is nearly extinct.
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