Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

[edju1958]

Lots of Remy stuff going on.I didn't get the SL7A,but I did get what was supposed to be a PL5.I have my doubts if it's a PL5 because the recoil model tag says it's a PL4.It could be a PL5 with a PL4 recoil on,I'll find out soon enough.

I pulled the reed assembly off a Woodmaster that I bought for parts,the reed is no good due to corrosion,but I had something to compare the reed to from a SXL that I pulled apart today.Good news - the reeds are identical! The old style single reeds that were used in the older XL12 & SXL will swap right in on the PL4,PL5,SL4,& Woodmaster.Homelite part # is 58775.For a comparison the reed on the right is out of the Woodmaster & the reed on the left is out of the SXL.

 

[edju1958]

Lots of stuff going on again.I got another PL4 today that was supposed to be a PL5.I need to measure the cylinder to find out exactly what saw I have.I'll have pics a bit later in the post.
I pulled apart the other PL4 (Agway Special) that had the sticking reed.I couldn't find anything wrong with the reed,other than there might've been some crud built up which might've prevented it from closing tight.Needless to say,I'm putting a new reed in it as it'd be foolish not to for $3 & the saw is already apart.I also found an HS79 carb which has the same size venturi in it as the HS87A.It just needs a rebuild kit.

 

[edju1958]

A little while back I mentioned that I got an SL11 that turned out to be a good runner.I had it running last week & tried to start it today,but it was a no go.It acted like it didn't have spark.I'll have to check it.Here are a couple pics.One thing I noticed about this saw is the different throttle lock they put on it.

 

[edju1958]

Well gang,I've got some more good news - a cylinder gasket for a Homelite XL12 fits right over onto the PL4 & SL4.It has to be the old style XL12 with the single reed,an XL12 with the pyramid reed will not fit as the gasket is made differently.I figured I couldn't go wrong for $4.If nothing else I'd have a gasket on hand for an XL12.I hope the same gasket will work on the PL5 too.Homelite part # is 58513.

 

[edju1958]

I had to pull the carb off the SL11 for a rebuild.I could start the saw cold no problem,but after I shut it off it wouldn't restart.The fuel line needed to be replaced too.I have to hand it to the engineers who designed the Remington saws for making it one of the most difficult saws to replace a fuel line on.I had to pull the rear throttle handle,pull the front handle off,pull the flywheel & coil stator off,disconnect 2 oil lines,& remove 3 screws that hold the fuel tank on.I guess the good news is that the saw will get a thorough cleaning.To top it all off I didn't have a 6 in.piece of fuel line on hand to replace the old one,Lol.Here's a pic of the old line.

 

[edju1958]

I just picked up a real nice like new Mighty Mite,manual oiler only.I'd like to know what bar mount pattern this saw used.Acres' site doesn't give a bar mount pattern for the whole Mighty Mite series.I believe it's set up for 1/4 in.chain.

 

[edju1958]

I'm getting the PL4 Agway Special back together again.I put the new reed in & got the rear handle back onto the rest of the saw.Getting the fuel line back in the air box was quite a challenge,it must've taken me at least 30 min.to accomplish that feat.Then while putting the carb back on I noticed that the inlet elbow fit rather loosely on the fuel line,a zip tie took care of that.Originally the carb that was on the saw was an HS7A.I couldn't get that carb to hold any pressure at all after rebuilding so I bought a different carb.I thought the carb was an HS87A,so I bought an HS79A.While putting the needles back in I noticed they were sticking out quite a bit further than the original carb's needles did.It was then I found that the original carb was an HS7A,not an HS87A.That's what happens when your eyes are good for chit.I'll put the points & coil stator & the flywheel back on tomorrow & see what happens.Anyone know the size of the venturi on the HS7A?The HS79A venturi are 9/16.

 

[edju1958]

I guess I'm typing this for nothing as I don't see anyone responding to any of my posts.This might get your attention though,I bought a brand new still in the box,never used Tilly HS7A carb for my PL5 for $25.02 & it wasn't from Feebay either.Come to find out,that carb was used only by Remington.

 

[Marine-piper]

I guess I'm typing this for nothing as I don't see anyone responding to any of my posts.This might get your attention though,I bought a brand new still in the box,never used Tilly HS7A carb for my PL5 for $25.02 & it wasn't from Feebay either.Come to find out,that carb was used only by Remington.

[emoji112][emoji112][emoji112] Good morning Ed!
I have 2 really nice SL-11's that I'm going to try to use this weekend, got a lot of buckin' and splitting to do.

Homelite enthusiast in training.

 

[edju1958]

I've got an SL9 that the fuel tank doesn't want to vent.Is there a duckbill type valve that goes in between the fuel tank & the throttle handle on the upper left side next to the carb?

 

[67L36Driver]

DuPont supplied better paint to Remington for the Wards saws.

 

[northwest saws]

For anyone interested. Super 754 up for auction on hibid. https://hibid.com/lot/87714375/remington-super-754-chain-saw

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

 

[edju1958]

Not much going on here,huh?I tore an SL9 auto apart today to see what was involved with the auto oiler & how to fix it.I don't think it's getting fixed at all & will be a manual oiler only.I'd like to know if I can block off the port where the pressure comes from the enginge?There was no duck bill in that fitting at all,not even a remnant of slimy goo.That explains why the saw doubled as a mosquito fogger.The reason I'll need to eliminate the auto oiler is because the filter that attaches to the rubber hose was laying in the bottom of the oil tank.I don't think those parts exist anywhere.I might be able to reattach it & put a zip tie on it,but I don't know if it'd hold up.

 

[67L36Driver]

You can plug the check valve device between the crankcase and oil tank but, you will have to prop open the shutoff valve linked to the throttle trigger.

It’s just as easy to use a new Poulan duckbill in the fitting.

Use an oil tank strainer from some other saw, like the common Stihl number.

 

[edju1958]

Thanks Carl! I have the Poulan duck bills,not a problem.I tried putting a zip tie (cable tie) on it last yr.to by-pass the auto-oiler,but it had no effect,it kept sucking oil through the exhaust.

Now I've got the saw apart,which was quite easy actually.I thought the gasket was still good,but after further examination I found part of it to be missing for the fuel tank portion.That explains why it won't hold fuel over time.My question here is rather than take the time to make a new gasket,could I use a sealant like Moto-Seal?

 

[67L36Driver]

I make my own gaskets. I don’t trust liquid gasket maker.

I do use Permatex #2, on my base gasket delete.

Been using that and 3M weatherstrip adhesive since high school.

 

[edju1958]

Moto Seal is made by Permatex & I've heard good things about it.I think I might try it & see how it works only because that gasket is quite intricate to make & looks to be very time consuming.If the Moto Seal doesn't work it'll be no big deal to take it apart again & make the gasket (or at least try to).

 

[67L36Driver]

Place the cover or crankcase on your printer/copier/scanner and hit copy. Take the copy and staple it to your gasket material. Using a common hole punch, leather punch and Xacto knife and cut it out. [emoji106]

Staple it in lots of places to prevent shifting.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Isn't there a Homelite gasket that'll fit like it was made for it?

 

[mbourdon]

I picked up a super 660 recently off Facebook. Too good of a deal to pass up. Tore the saw down and found out it had one broken piston ring. Is there any availability of parts on these saws? Otherwise it’ll look cool on the wall, but I would love to get it back running. Thanks.