Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

Rugged made
Wesspur
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Some more pictures of my Mall 2mg rebuild. Here are a few before primer. I used a Soy based stripper that has almost no odor and didn't use any gloves! Great stuff if you like to strip paint inside with the air conditioning....
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Here is a pic of the split tank assembly with half stripped and half not yet touched...
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And here are the handle parts, and the recoil assembly stripped and ready for paint...
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I cleaned the inside of the tank using a dremel flex attachment and wire wheels to remove the clay colored goo. Then I put the 2 halves back together with Yamabond 4. After a 24 hour test period with no leaks we are ready to move on. Began putting the parts to be painted back together to prime with grey metal etching primer...
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What is a good color/brand spray paint for the red topcoat? What have you other guys used?

Jim
 
gomlin said:
I cleaned the inside of the tank using a dremel flex attachment and wire wheels to remove the clay colored goo. Then I put the 2 halves back together with Yamabond 4. After a 24 hour test period with no leaks we are ready to move on. Began putting the parts to be painted back together to prime with grey metal etching primer...
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What is a good color/brand spray paint for the red topcoat? What have you other guys used?

Jim
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If you want a really durable, fuel and oil resistant finish, it's hard to beat automotive lacquer. It goes on smooth and dries hard and fast. A good hard enamel works well too, just takes longer to dry and is a little fussier to work with. Has a tendency to orange peel really bad on second coats if you're not careful. Krylon seems to apply easier, don't care much for Valspar. Rustoleum has some good enamels, slow drying but hard finish. With your prep and primer work, you should get a nice finished product.:msp_thumbup:
 
Kingsley said:
Checked the float bowl and found all kinds of grit and scale from some where? The float was operating correctly though so I cleaned it out, but still no flow. I'm really thinking I need to start over again with a complete disassembly of the carb. While I have it apart I was wondering what anyone might suggest for cleaning it out or checking in any problem areas.

Thanks for the replies,
Marty
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Your old cork float is likely descintegrating from this new craptacular gas, my floats started falling apart fast when in this new fuel. What i do for all of my old 2 mans with irreplacable cork floats is i paint them with 2 light coats of POR-15 fuel tank coating. Dirt cheap in comparison to replacing floats, if it were possible. Have not had weight issues either with this method. Be sue to clean the tank well, and be sure the filter is working properly. These carbs plug VERY easily. The ignitions are also tricky, but not bad. A condensor for a bendix ignition off of a merc boat motor will replace the old mall condensors which can act up due to age.

I know an ultrasonic cleaner is not always an option for some dueto cost, how ever i found them to be a necessary tool to have when working on carbs that sat for 40 years with crap in them.
 
Thanks for the help. Saw runs great, but I have to replace the throtle cable and sharpen the chain. The throtle cable ended up breaking after an attempt in the wood. The scratcher chain did nothing more than scratch. It is coming along though.

Marty
 
Kingsley said:
Thanks for the help. Saw runs great, but I have to replace the throtle cable and sharpen the chain. The throtle cable ended up breaking after an attempt in the wood. The scratcher chain did nothing more than scratch. It is coming along though.

Marty
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Well glad you got it running.;)
 
Hey Mr. Bowsaw,

Kinda missed it for several days, we REALLY like that camouflage job on the bow saw. It looks good enough to have been produced that way. NICE WORK!

Brian and Tina
 
Got a top coat on most of the Mall 2mg parts yesterday. Just have the crankcase sides of the jug and the transmission to paint. I ended up using Valspar Tractor and Implement Restoration Paint from TSC in Massy Furguson Red. I'm very happy with how it came out, the paint went on very evenly and dried very smooth. I was able to remove the original metal stickers off the saw before stripping, any idea what kind of adhesive to use to reapply them? Also there was a tiny bit of a white sticker remaining on the bar cover plate of the transmission, anyone know what is supposed to be there?
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gomlin said:
Got a top coat on most of the Mall 2mg parts yesterday. Just have the crankcase sides of the jug and the transmission to paint. I ended up using Valspar Tractor and Implement Restoration Paint from TSC in Massy Furguson Red. I'm very happy with how it came out, the paint went on very evenly and dried very smooth. I was able to remove the original metal stickers off the saw before stripping, any idea what kind of adhesive to use to reapply them? Also there was a tiny bit of a white sticker remaining on the bar cover plate of the transmission, anyone know what is supposed to be there?
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Looking good so far.:msp_thumbup:
 
gomlin said:
Got a top coat on most of the Mall 2mg parts yesterday. Just have the crankcase sides of the jug and the transmission to paint. I ended up using Valspar Tractor and Implement Restoration Paint from TSC in Massy Furguson Red. I'm very happy with how it came out, the paint went on very evenly and dried very smooth. I was able to remove the original metal stickers off the saw before stripping, any idea what kind of adhesive to use to reapply them? Also there was a tiny bit of a white sticker remaining on the bar cover plate of the transmission, anyone know what is supposed to be there?
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I believe you can get decal adhesive at Hobby Lobby. You'll need something that will stick to the paint without acting as a solvent. You might want to check on some of the spray adhesives as well. I think the adhesives sold for headliner repair might be mild yet strong enough.
 
apse said:
Hey Mr. Bowsaw,

Kinda missed it for several days, we REALLY like that camouflage job on the bow saw. It looks good enough to have been produced that way. NICE WORK!

Brian and Tina
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Thanks, Brian and Tina

I thought I would give it a try.
It was not easy to do with spray cans.
I do like the way it turned out.;)
 
PL-4 filter

Still looking for a PL-4 air filter. That's basically all this saw needs to be a runner once I slot the recoil cup.

Anyone know of a stash?
 
Figured you guys would like this!!!

The little one doesn't like to run them, just ride them! LOL!!!

Remington 660G (ARMY)
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Hey Jim,

That 2MG is looking real good so far! There are a variety of good adhesives available for the metal tags, the best stuff is from 3M, General Trim Spray Adhesive, Clear, Super Weatherstrip Adhesive, etc. They will dissolve the kind of paint you have used so be careful! The trick is to fit (pre-conform) the plates first and make sure they lay against the surface the way you want them to be before any adhesive is applied. The other thing that might be easier to use is automotive double sided, emblem and moulding tape, it is very easy to work with and quite forgiving.
Oh yeah... Matt, Nice pictures, Thanks for sharing.

Brian and Tina
 

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