Only place I could find tube was ace hardware, not sure if pa has them or not but maybe other hardware stores do.
Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)
- Thread starter wampum
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Hey Ezra. Glad you got @Brufab on the right track. I'm over in York co.
Hi guys,I haven't been ignoring anyone here,just busy as hell out cutting.Trying to keep some saws going too.I've been thinking about that MW 4.0 that I've got with no oioling going on.I think I'll bypass the automatic oiler with a zip tie.I've done this on a couple of SL9s & it has worked just fine.I hope it'll get the manual oiler going.
Got the pl7a running great. Then the clutch side bearings went
hope I can find bearings. When I spin the crankshaft backwards all is good. Spin forward and lots of grinding and crunching
hope I can find bearings. When I spin the crankshaft backwards all is good. Spin forward and lots of grinding and crunchingIf you can pull the bearing without destroying anything,there should be numbers stamped on the bearing's race & possible mfr.If no numbers are present,take the bearing to a bearing house & they should be able to match it up.If you have a good bearing house,like I have here,they can give you a new bearing using the original part # from Remington.Lots of options.Got the pl7a running great. Then the clutch side bearings went
Thanks! Turned out to be a part of the saw vibrated loose and got caught behind the flywheel. I'm struggling with this duckbill check valve. I did everything like guys said but I'm still pouring bar oil out the exhaust. I rebuilt the carb and made some cuts, saw running good till you have more than 1/8 tank of bar oil.
Ezra
ArboristSite Member
Whats compression on it brufab?
Not sure, I will have to check. The piston looks real good. Probly tomarrow I can check it out. Still struggling with bar oil in the cylinder. The duckbill is in and I can use the air compressor and watch it open and close. But when installed, wow dumping bar oil out exhaust like crazy.
This came out of check valve and locked up the saw. Luckily I had a sl4a I took a new part off of. It got behind the flywheel 
I have my oiling woes as well on the MW 4.0.I fiddled with it for a while today & I just can't figure it out for the life of me.If I run the saw for a bit it builds up a pressure in the oil tank & I have to "burp" it.I tried to depress the manual oiler as hard as I can & it moved oh so slightly.I've got a tiny bit of oil coming out at the bar pad,but nothing like it should be.Now here's a real kick in the butt - I loosened the fitting that goes from the manual plunger to the fitting on the FW side of the saw.I was able to depress the manual oiler easier,but the oil came out of the fill opening with the cap on (?).I don't know if there's just old crusted up bar oil in the oil passage,or something else going on.To sum it up,Remington had the worst automatic oilers on the market (& cheapest too),nothing but a headache.I was going top bypass the auto oiler like I did on some of my SL9As,but I can't do it like I did on those saws.The trigger isn't hooked up to the manual oiler like on the SL9As.I think what can be done is pop the flywheel off & plug the impulse line opening & plug the line off that goes to the tank.That would eliminate to pressure build up in the tank & give me manual oiling only (in theory).
That's exactly my train of thought edju. The tricky thing I believe is 1/8" flare plug. Can't find in store. Will have to order. I did buy a ton of fittings, set screws and stuff. May have to plug it like you were saying. I'm hoping I have everything I need. What's crazy is I lost the screen in the fitting and the duckbill on the 1st go around.
Brufab,I bought some 1/8 pipe plugs for a Homelite saw back a few months ago from McMaster Carr.I think they were less than $1 each.
Ezra
ArboristSite Member
I'm coming up with 7mm x 1.0 on the crank case oiler fitting.All of the o rings need to be replaced and the trigger pump plunger has to return all the way i check them by pressing against the plunger after operating if they don't return all the way the o rings are hard and jamming up i like the oiling system they really squirt oil out.The problem is the handle assembly threads strip out then need a heli coil
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I'm gonna try and take the saw apart more tomorrow. They got this stupid compression release on my saw. If your not careful as @Maintenance supervisor has said, thing will fall right out, I was experiencing the issue today. Without the compression release saw is almost impossible to start. I have sl4a that doesn't smoke, I can swap that in. I'm almost to the point of just crimping the copper line and pluging the tank.
So I think I may have found my issue with the check valve. Part #5 from in the #32 assembly is a washer. It isn't shown on the pl7a ipl but it is shown on a sl11a ipl. 
I'm thinking that the plug that screws into the fitting must press against that washer to hold the check valve in place? When I can get back into the shop I will have to try making a washer out of gasket material or possibly trying to find a metal washer. I have a sl4a that I believe the check valve works I may swap out to see. 
I bought a bunch of plugs and fittings. Probly a week till I can get back into the shop. That McMaster Carr does carry about everything a guy would need.
I think 1/8 or 1/16" compression plug is what I need to plug the line from cylinder, maybe I will take line off an see if I can just plug the cylinder if I can't get the check valve to work.
I know alot of old automotive check valves were nothing more than a ball bearing in a tube with a tapered edge with a spring in the opposite side.
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