Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

[Brufab]

Get rid of that exhaust deflector, originally it was an open exhaust or just a screen .
That kind of restriction is definitely going to hurt not only performance but also carbon up the inside of the cylinder.

I wonder if the 754 and 660 type muffler will fit, I ran across some nos for a good price, with the factory screen in them.

 

[MatthewD]

Get rid of that exhaust deflector, originally it was an open exhaust or just a screen .
That kind of restriction is definitely going to hurt not only performance but also carbon up the inside of the cylinder.

Ok, I kept it on because I thought it would help quieten the saw a bit. Should there be a baffle inside that muffler? When I took the muffler off there was what looked like a baffle inside that had broken off.

I wonder if the 754 and 660 type muffler will fit, I ran across some nos for a good price, with the factory screen in them.

I saw a 754 muffler for sale which looked identical to mine.

 

[Brufab]

Ok, I kept it on because I thought it would help quieten the saw a bit. Should there be a baffle inside that muffler? When I took the muffler off there was what looked like a baffle inside that had broken off.

I saw a 754 muffler for sale which looked identical to mine.

I think every large frame remington uses the same muffler other than the 770/880/990 alot of pics show them with goofy looking exhausts. I think bantams, 65,75, 660,754 use the same.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Ok, I kept it on because I thought it would help quieten the saw a bit. Should there be a baffle inside that muffler? When I took the muffler off there was what looked like a baffle inside that had broken off.

I saw a 754 muffler for sale which looked identical to mine.

Just a screen

 

[MatthewD]

I think every large frame remington uses the same muffler other than the 770/880/990 alot of pics show them with goofy looking exhausts. I think bantams, 65,75, 660,754 use the same.

Yeah there seems to be a few different deflectors used on the 770s/990s.

Just a screen

Ah right. I wonder where the baffle came from then.

 

[Brufab]

Acresinternet shows it with a goofy looking exhaust. Also the bottom handle looks different than on the bantam/660/754, type saws

 

[Brufab]

They must of changed the design at some point based on this factory literature

 

[MatthewD]

Yeah there's definitely some variation in mufflers. The bottom handle on mine is stamped steel, most others seem to be cast magnesium.

 

[Brufab]

The pl7a duckbill check valve must be bad, I got it running good but wow alot of smoke. So that's something new I will have to learn how to fix/bypass, but on a more positive note the 660 fired right up.

 

[Brufab]

Remington pl7a and the super 754 share the same starter cup. The flywheels are different but the starter cups are identical if that helps anyone out.

 

[Brufab]

Anyone know where to find a primer bulb with only 1 connection? The primer bulb on this pl7a leaks like crazy. Never seen a primer bulb with only 1 barbed connector. Its plumbed into some kind of check valve unless the check valve is bad. Must of been cutting edge in 1970 but in 2022 its a

 

[MatthewD]

Something like this? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174633935791
I think those work by pushing air into the float bowl which pushes fuel out of the main jet, so it might not work on a diagram carb.

 

[Brufab]

Thanks Matt, for now I just bypassed it all and ran a line from the fuel line fitting to the fitting in the carb plate. The yellow line represents how I bypassed it. I do have a standard line fitting that I can use on carb, and I have a vacuum line cap to put on the barb connector on carb plate. I was also thinking that a standard 2 line primer bulb would work but I would have to keep it inside the filter box since the mounting hole for original bulb is maybe .375" and only use it for a cold start. Thanks for finding that bulb, I didn't think 1 line ones existed anymore. Today I will be working on the duckbill check valve. I also bought supplies to block off the automatic oiling system just in case. @Ezra walked me through some of the steps and told me how to orientate the valve in the fitting.

 

[Ezra]

Can't wait to hear this thing run!

 

[Brufab]

Can't wait to hear this thing run!

I had it running real good, then I added bar oil.... smoked insane, but I learned that echo bar oil when combusted smells alot like klotz, check valve shows up today, so hopefully will have an update

 

[Brufab]

@Ezra Thanks man! I got the poulan duckbill and installed it. I used 3/16 brass tube cut a 7/16" piece, belled both ends with a nail punch so it was a tight fit to stake the valve in since you mentioned you had to stake the one in you did. I pressed it in and duckbill doesn't move, with out it the valve would fall out if you blew in the end of fitting.

 

[Ezra]

Thats a good idea also holds it in place better from being pushed out next i do this will be the way

 

[Brufab]

Thats a good idea also holds it in place better from being pushed out next i do this will be the way

Thanks I couldn't of done it without you

 

[Brufab]

This is what I used to bell/flare the brass tube, I believe it's a 1/32 nail set but anything similar would work

 

[Ezra]

Yeah i bet a brake line flarier would work also it just has to hold it enough to seal but function