9/16” x 24”I'm sure the SL5G is even heavier with the spur gear transmission.
BTW, helluva nice bar/chain on that saw.
Was it a ND or NRD? I have had the worst luck with the NRD version. That bar looks long is that 24" or longer? Saw looks great!Got the 660G finished. The Carter carb took a bit of fiddling but it starte, idles and runs out well. Be time for a test soon.
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Was it a ND or NRD? I have had the worst luck with the NRD version. That bar looks long is that 24" or longer? Saw looks great!
For some reason I thought you lived in Wisconsin. After clicking on you I see thats not the case. Thought for the right price it make a good parts saw.Not mine and I got one. Those bar nut standoffs sure look what you might use on a chainsaw mill. Strange.
Yup thanks cb I have switched flywheels and recoils before when needed. Your right about the timeline on things, plus any literature or information is hard to come by. Thanks again and hope you have a great holiday weekend take care cbThat is a Fairbanks-Morse recoil. I figured the later model Bamtams used it but there is no real rhyme or reason to it. I've seen models with both styles. My 82cc 770s have Remington starters, my 89cc 770 has the FM. The early Super 75 uses a right hand FM recoil.
If you need an FM recoil, any 754 has it. That seems a consistent fact, 754s use that starter.
Remember, the flywheels have to match the cover and I think the crankshafts are different as well.
I'm reading quite a few of your older posts in this thread as I am a collector of Remington saws, very very impressive edju1958. Lots of help and knowledge. Thanks! Now if only I can get this dang pl55a wards saw to oilI brought the PL4 Agway Special up from the back barn to put the recoil back on it that I'd borrowed a couple weeks ago to put on an SL4.I tried starting the saw & it wouldn't start.I pulled the plug & it was wet,so it wasn't firing under compression.I put a new plug in it & it fired right up.
I also noticed the muffler wasn't quite right,so pulled that off & found the upper boss for the muffler stud to be stripped out.Normally I'd put a helicoil in,but didn't know if I had the right size,so I mixed up some JB Weld & put that in the boss.Then I put the muffler back on & it seems to be holding up just fine.The last thing I did was put a felling spike on the saw from a parts SL4.
Check valves...Having an issue on my pl55a oilers neither are working, the manual plunger has a good seal just not pushing any oil thru. Any suggestions? Thanks.
If your going to collect Remington's of that style, you need to get used to dealing with those ball and spring check valves as well as the rubber duckbill check valves.Yea that's the direction I'm heading, but need to pull the flywheel for one of them. The one I could take off worked with compressed air. It's the one that is coming off the cylinder that I'm guessing is the issue?
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