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Nice bunch of Remys. The R.H. start Bantam types are way cool looking.
Is that Bantam a repaint?
Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)
- Thread starter wampum
- Start date
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Nice bunch of Remys. The R.H. start Bantam types are way cool looking.
Is that Bantam a repaint?
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
I respect the labor of love that goes into fully restoring vintage chainsaws,
and I like seeing the 'battlescars,' kind of a "If only that chainsaw could talk."
Did you leave something out of your post, such as photo(s) and/or a link?
and I like seeing the 'battlescars,' kind of a "If only that chainsaw could talk."
Did you leave something out of your post, such as photo(s) and/or a link?
sawdust21
ArboristSite Operative
Would you repaint this saw if you where gonna restore it, or leave it original paint?
Looks like a piece worthy of restoration. I have one almost finished, along with a Golden Logmaster and others. I'll be posting them soon.
Thanks for the help on the oil pump Carl! Got most of the PL-4 put back together, and the oiler works like a charm. Now just waiting on some fresh decals from Sugar Creek Supply. It should look great all finished up.
per my research these are all equivalent
Champion J6J
NGK B6S
Accel 124
Autolite 3014
thread size - 14mm
reach - 0.375
hex size - 0.813
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sawdust21
ArboristSite Operative
You are correct sir; my experience has been that the NGK is closest in performance to the original J6J. Champions nearest current match, is the Champion J8C, but quality has dropped. Off center electrodes and inner insulator issues seem to plague them. Fouling and resistance breakdown are common. The AC 45 also works well.
andrew price
New Member
Pioneer fan
ArboristSite Operative
Hello all. Please excuse me, if this has been asked before. I need to location of the oiler check valve on a Remington SL-55a? I have one here that smokes like a freight train. It is not in the same location as my pl-5, and i do not have an I.P.L for it. Also, does anyone know how to disable the trigger lock on the manual oiler?
drolds1818
New Member
remington sl-4as chainsaw
Does anyone have info on this model I just got one in running condition model is SL-4AS with serial # YJ 388
Does anyone have info on this model I just got one in running condition model is SL-4AS with serial # YJ 388
Can't find an IPL for the SL-55A but here is the PL-55A. http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Remington PL-55 and PL-55A.pdf
My usual move on the oiler shut off valve is to wrap a zip tie or spacer around the plunger to hold it open.
Find a Lombard check valve. They can be repaired with a Poulan or Homelite duckbill.
Blowing big clouds of smoke.
I've run accross two Remys that use a plastic flapper disc check valve instead of the duckbill type on the auto-oiler.
If your auto-oiler Remington is blowing big clouds of smoke and you know that the check valve is in good condition, you need to releave oil tank pressure before storing the saw. Just loosen the fill cap before you put it back on the shelf.
'Burp' it.
My PL-7A had pressure in it five days after running him. Enuff to put half the oil tank contents in the engine.
I've run accross two Remys that use a plastic flapper disc check valve instead of the duckbill type on the auto-oiler.
If your auto-oiler Remington is blowing big clouds of smoke and you know that the check valve is in good condition, you need to releave oil tank pressure before storing the saw. Just loosen the fill cap before you put it back on the shelf.
'Burp' it.
My PL-7A had pressure in it five days after running him. Enuff to put half the oil tank contents in the engine.
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Pioneer fan
ArboristSite Operative
[video=youtube_share;rhYwNh46CGA]http://youtu.be/rhYwNh46CGA[/video]
Started a new thread on this, but i figured it would be good to post this here also.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/226242.htm <----link to thread
Started a new thread on this, but i figured it would be good to post this here also.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/226242.htm <----link to thread
Pioneer fan
ArboristSite Operative
The third hole, is usually the result of the clutch nut loosening up, sometime in the saw's history, and rubbing through the clutch cover. Homelites had a problem with it also.
The auto oiler check valve fix.
Running this by again for the newcomers to the wonderfull world of Remys.
The original rubber duckbill has turned to tar in almost every Remington and there are no replacements available at all. Fortunately, the 90 deg. check valve in a Lombard AP-42 type will, most times, interchange and you can fix them with a Homelite or Poulan duckbill.
Run a #10-24 tap into the brass sleeve of the Lombard valve outlet port untill it starts to turn. Using the tap or a machine screw pull the sleeve from the fitting body. (don't be bending on the tap and break it!!)
Clean him up and insert a new duckbill (Poulan preferred) and press the sleeve back in the fitting. You may want to scrunch the brass sleeve in your bench vice just a bit to make it tight.
The Lombard valve is a direct fit in PL/SL-4s and PL-5s. On larger models you may have to adapt the Lombard valve as the pipe/tubing size is larger.
I had to drll the inlet port to 3/16" and drill out a 1/8" comp. nut to adapt a Lombard valve to my PL-7A.
Running this by again for the newcomers to the wonderfull world of Remys.
The original rubber duckbill has turned to tar in almost every Remington and there are no replacements available at all. Fortunately, the 90 deg. check valve in a Lombard AP-42 type will, most times, interchange and you can fix them with a Homelite or Poulan duckbill.
Run a #10-24 tap into the brass sleeve of the Lombard valve outlet port untill it starts to turn. Using the tap or a machine screw pull the sleeve from the fitting body. (don't be bending on the tap and break it!!)
Clean him up and insert a new duckbill (Poulan preferred) and press the sleeve back in the fitting. You may want to scrunch the brass sleeve in your bench vice just a bit to make it tight.
The Lombard valve is a direct fit in PL/SL-4s and PL-5s. On larger models you may have to adapt the Lombard valve as the pipe/tubing size is larger.
I had to drll the inlet port to 3/16" and drill out a 1/8" comp. nut to adapt a Lombard valve to my PL-7A.
Just a side note to the above: All four of the tapped holes for mouting the recoil cover on my PL-7 have been helicoiled.:msp_unsure:
Built that way? I dunno.......................................
Built that way? I dunno.......................................
Pioneer fan
ArboristSite Operative
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ and that is how you fix the "External" type valve. Cool, now we have information on both types, in one thread.
Mr. Bow Saw
Addicted to ArboristSite
i don't get over here much ... These were rescued for me by a buddy of mine today. Enjoy!
A super 770g with a bow bar:
I traded for this 770G. :msp_biggrin:
It looks like it was not used much, just sat most of the time.
Was real clean inside and no wear on the sprocket.
Has a low serial number 191.
