Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

[igpoe]

Very nice, but some hard work ahead methinks

 

[sawdust21]

I don't get over here much ... These were rescued for me by a buddy of mine today. Enjoy!

A Super 770G with a bow bar:

A Super 660:

OOOOOOweeeeee! Nice score indeed! Oh, that we might all have buddies to make such rescues for us. Might be some saw envy raising it's ugly head if we're not careful. Congrats!!! Hope you bought dinner for your friend. Fix 'em up and post some updated shots.

 

[sawdust21]

Made my own puller out of a piece of plate steel.

Magnets must have hit the wires a few times. Does anyone know how to test it to make sure it is working right? I dont seem to have spark. Or know where i could get replacement parts?

Your coil wire is improperly routed. It goes beneath the magnet. Looks like someone has been in there before you. The tape spacing method works well for setting your pickup coil armature air gap. Keep at it, you'll get a good education on the 12a. They're really sweet sounding saws.

 

[2treeornot2tree]

Your coil wire is improperly routed. It goes beneath the magnet. Looks like someone has been in there before you. The tape spacing method works well for setting your pickup coil armature air gap. Keep at it, you'll get a good education on the 12a. They're really sweet sounding saws.

I may have found out why i have no spark. The wire for the stop button is just bolted to the handle, and the stop button is missing. I would imagine, that would keep it from sparking. I am going to replace the plug wire, re route it and see if i have spark. I did notice a small amount of play in the bearing on the crank.

 

[sawdust21]

I may have found out why i have no spark. The wire for the stop button is just bolted to the handle, and the stop button is missing. I would imagine, that would keep it from sparking. I am going to replace the plug wire, re route it and see if i have spark. I did notice a small amount of play in the bearing on the crank.

You'll also want to address the bared wire on the condenser. Make sure it isn't cut in two. Heat shrink or a couple of coats of liquid electrical tape should seal it back up sufficiently.

 

[sawdust21]

I may have found out why i have no spark. The wire for the stop button is just bolted to the handle, and the stop button is missing. I would imagine, that would keep it from sparking. I am going to replace the plug wire, re route it and see if i have spark. I did notice a small amount of play in the bearing on the crank.

Double check the needle bearings on the lower connecting rod. The earlier 12a had straight square ended bearings that seemed to be of inferior quality to the later bearings. You might have one or more that have given way. Wouldn't want to go through all the trouble of reassembly, just to have the crank go south on you.

 

[dff110]

Oiler problem on PL-4

I'm in the middle of reassembling my pl-4. And ran into 2 questions/problems. The first is at the reed valve. There is a very slight gap between the reed valve and housing. Just enough to see light through. To me it appears to be designed this way because when you loosen the two screws a turn, the reed valve lays flat, and no gap can be seen, but when re tightened, the gap appears again.

Second problem is at the manual oil pump. I tested the oil pump before assembly, and it does not work. And I can't figure out how to get it apart to clean it out, and check the o-ring.

There is not enough room to turn that brass nut. It is right up against the handle.

There is no access from the bottom. The input line was a little loose, so I put some moto seal around it to seal it off thinking it could possibly be pulling air from around the line. Neither of the compression nuts will move, and I didn't want to torque too hard, and break them.

Anyone have any idea of how to get this apart?

 

[67L36Driver]

dff110: Use a 5/8" open end wrench and remove the plunger. Check the 'O' ring for cuts or abrasions and replace if necessary. Use the straw on your WD-40 to purge the lines.

I just got done messing with one of my SL-4As today and the PL/SL saws like the 30 weight bar oil from Wally World thinned 4:1 (oil/kero) with kerosene or diesel. In this cold weather even the straight 30 weight won't flow to feed the plunger.


The pyrmid reed valve gets a cork gasket between the inlet and the carb. adaptor. Yours missing? Should be about .060" thick and kinda soft.

They also came with a flat flapper single leaf reed. (Mostly the SL-4s) No extra gasket on them.

 

[2treeornot2tree]

Good news with my rebuild, i got spark, and also picked up another 12a saw that has spark for parts if need be.

 

[dff110]

dff110: Use a 5/8" open end wrench and remove the plunger. Check the 'O' ring for cuts or abrasions and replace if necessary. Use the straw on your WD-40 to purge the lines.

I just got done messing with one of my SL-4As today and the PL/SL saws like the 30 weight bar oil from Wally World thinned 4:1 (oil/kero) with kerosene or diesel. In this cold weather even the straight 30 weight won't flow to feed the plunger.


The pyrmid reed valve gets a cork gasket between the inlet and the carb. adaptor. Yours missing? Should be about .060" thick and kinda soft.

They also came with a flat flapper single leaf reed. (Mostly the SL-4s) No extra gasket on them.

It's hard to tell in my picture, but there is no room for the nut around the plunger to turn. It is tight up against the handle. That is the part I was having problems with. I thought maybe there was something I was missing. I will try again tomorrow to turn it. I didn't want to mess with it too much and scratch my paint job. (guess I should have checked the oil pump before I painted it. :bang

As for the reed, this one has a single flat flapper. The problem is there is a very very small gap (just enough to see light through). I'm not sure if this is by design, or just slightly bent. If it should be closed, I can try to flip it over.

Thanks for the tip on the bar oil

 

[67L36Driver]

It's hard to tell in my picture, but there is no room for the nut around the plunger to turn. It is tight up against the handle. That is the part I was having problems with. I thought maybe there was something I was missing. I will try again tomorrow to turn it. I didn't want to mess with it too much and scratch my paint job. (guess I should have checked the oil pump before I painted it. :bang

As for the reed, this one has a single flat flapper. The problem is there is a very very small gap (just enough to see light through). I'm not sure if this is by design, or just slightly bent. If it should be closed, I can try to flip it over.

Thanks for the tip on the bar oil

There is almost zero clearence accross corners on the hex but it will turn.

Now I got you on the reed. Yes, turn him over. He needs to lay flat. May be a tiny bit of dirt under the mounting point holding it open.

 

[dff110]

There is almost zero clearence accross corners on the hex but it will turn.

Now I got you on the reed. Yes, turn him over. He needs to lay flat. May be a tiny bit of dirt under the mounting point holding it open.

Thanks for the help Carl, I did get the oil pump apart, and fixed the reed. Just one more question for you. I inspected the o-ring on the oil pump plunger, it was in good shape, and still a tight fit in the cylinder. I cleaned out the cylinder and both inlet and outlet lines with degreaser, oiled, and re-assembled. It still doesn't pull oil from a cup. I noticed there is no check valve in the system, so what stops the oil from being drawn up, and pushed right back down into the inlet line? Does the oil tank become pressurized, allowing it to push the oil through to the bar?

 

[67L36Driver]

I don't see anything called out in the IPL.

Take a look at the 90 deg. outlet fitting at the oil tank. I think it is also a ball check similar to what Homelite uses.


I have a couple extra handles in my Remy junk. I'll dig them out and look it over.

 

[mweba]

Posted this question in open forum, anyone have info on an electric start mighty mite?

 

[8433jeff]

Posted this question in open forum, anyone have info on an electric start mighty mite?

Does it work?

 

[dff110]

Posted this question in open forum, anyone have info on an electric start mighty mite?

I have an IPL for it. Never actually saw one in person. Cool find!

 

[mweba]

Does it work?

Not sure, haven't found the rest of the saw yet....

 

[Eccentric]

Not sure, haven't found the rest of the saw yet....

Mitch do you have an IPL for the electric start Mighty Mite? There's a local CL seller here who's been listing an IPL for them (for something like $5) off and on for about 2 years. I can try to get it for you if you'd like.

 

[heimannm]

I have / had a manual and IPL for the electric start mini Rem, not sure if it is still lurking somewhere at home or if I sent it off with the saws last fall. Check with me in a couple of weeks when I am home again.

Mark

 

[Chris J.]

Very cool find :msp_thumbup: on the elec start cover! I'm guessing that it is pretty rare. It reads patent pending, I wonder if many were actually put into production .


EDIT: Site sponsor Chainsawr has the IPL.

http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Remington Mighty Mite II Electric Start.pdf