Rip Chain for 660 ?

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HansFranz

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I want to build a woodworking workbench but can't find decent lumber for the 2' x 7' x 3-6" top, so I plan to cut slab(s) from a dead tree (I think I have a dead white oak or loblolly pine that will work), then joint and glue them up if need be.

Don't have an Alaskan mill, but plan to nail a board to the tree as a guide to get a planar surface, then turn it and repeat to square it up and get it down to manageable size to bring home and work on...

Can anyone recommend a good ripping chain to use for this on my 660 with 28" bar?
The bar uses .050" chain 3/8" and IIRC 91 DL.
If I'm lucky, I think there's a WO that's been down 10+ yrs., so assume it'll be dry and hard stuff.

I googled around for a while, but kind of got lost. Thanks for any help.
 
The ripping chains I've seen have all been chisel, 10° seems to be the preferred angle. Just take one of your current chains and sharpen it at 10°.

This is a piece of Oregon 51RL; .404 .058 ripping chain that looks to be filed or ground at 0 or 90° depending on your persecpective.

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Mark
 
You can use Stihl 33RMX ripping chain.
.050 3/8 standard sequence pre made by Stihl and I think almost same price as their reg chain.
Most use semi chisel for rip chain now it seems. Before was chisel.
Oregon has greatly increased the price of their premade rip chain.
 
Just use the chain you have. It doesn't have to be 10 degree ripping chain.
You read my mind. That was my next question.

The best price I could find online for a 91 dl loop of 33RMX was about $41 on ebay.
Is it worth spending that much for a one-off, one-time job?
Since I've never used a ripping chain, I don't know. Do you still get the same noodles that clog up the saw?

I have plenty of good sharp full-chisel regular chains for that saw that I could use instead...
 
You read my mind. That was my next question.

The best price I could find online for a 91 dl loop of 33RMX was about $41 on ebay.
Is it worth spending that much for a one-off, one-time job?
Since I've never used a ripping chain, I don't know. Do you still get the same noodles that clog up the saw?

I have plenty of good sharp full-chisel regular chains for that saw that I could use instead...

You dont get noodles until you start ripping face grain, not end grain.
Think about Granberg/Alaskan mill set ups and how the bar is introduced to the log- then think about blocking up rounds of firewood and where the bar is in relationship to the round of firewood.
If you rip down the face grain- standard chain and noodles.
If you rip along the end grain- 10 degree top plate cutter angle and much finer dust/chips.
 
I just checked ebay there is a lot of the 33PMX chains.

I wonder why they don't import more of their 63PMX (3/8 0.050 picco/lo pro)? Last time I checked a Stihl they said couldn't get it. OP probably won't want to try that as need matching bar and drive sprockets.
 
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