Sachs Dolmar Chainsaws Thread

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Would a 120 tank fit it, or would it have to come from a 120si/6800i? Any other parts interchangeable with the 120si? Also what puller will fit the flywheel (would the Bosch moped one fit)? Thanks!!
 
Can`t say for sure about the tanks, most likely will fit but things like tank vents may be different. The Bosch flywheel puller will work, the 22mm end, I use both the Stihl and Bosch ones and both work equally well.
Pioneerguy600
 
dolmar 143

just picked one up, a little bit rough condition, needs a new handle which i ordered already, and picked up a couple new bars for it. other than that starts right up, runs like a beast. just wondering if i got a good deal, on average what are the 143's going for these days in decent condition? ALSO i need a chain brake for it....so if anyone knows where i can get one, im not overly concerned about it, but it would be nice to have.
 
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Muffler needed Makita DCS 9000

Begging:cry: for NOS or used muffler for a Dolmar 9010 / Makita 9000 if anyone has a spare they are willing let go. Been rebuilding an older Makita 9000 and trying to save a few on parts. Thanks, Roger
 
115 v 111?

Got a question for the experts. Can a person tell the difference between The Sachs 111 & a 115 with out a look at the P & C? From pics only? Its an auction saw, so I don't have it in hand....
 
Well.... I gotta split the case on my 6800i. It won't hold pressure at .5 bar, hence the scoring on the exhaust side of the piston and roached rings. I have the shop manual for the 120si and hopefully it is close enough. Do I have to remove the radial rings from the case before I split it? If so is there a way to do it without ordering the special Radial Ring Extractor? Thanks!!
 
Well.... I gotta split the case on my 6800i. It won't hold pressure at .5 bar, hence the scoring on the exhaust side of the piston and roached rings. I have the shop manual for the 120si and hopefully it is close enough. Do I have to remove the radial rings from the case before I split it? If so is there a way to do it without ordering the special Radial Ring Extractor? Thanks!!

Is the case gasket leaking or just the radial seals?
Pioneerguy600
 
I didn't get that far.

I seperated the tank from the crankcase and popped the cylinder off to take a look inside. I saw a little metal/oil crud, not shavings (prob from aluminum from the piston as it transferred to the cylinder). Big end bearing seems fine (no up and down movement).

When i pressurized it I blocked off the exhaust by putting innertube material on the cylinder side of the muffler and bolted it on. Intake side I put innertube material on the cylinder side with a fitting from my mityvac in it and bolted on the intake block. I had to work hard to get it up to 7psi, it was leaking moderately fast. I was pretty satisfied that it was a tight seal but I might try to make something similar to the factory tools in the 120si manual.

Is there a way to determine between radial seal or crankcase seal if I can do an accurate pressure test? Soapy water sprayed on the seal?
 
I have a Dolmar 144 (same saw as Poulan 5500)and I'll like to get it running. Does anyone know where I could get a Filter Housing (plastic part that holds air filter and is fastened to carburetor) for it? used or NOS.

I don't think parts for older Dolmars are easy to find, but good luck! :)
 
I didn't get that far.

I seperated the tank from the crankcase and popped the cylinder off to take a look inside. I saw a little metal/oil crud, not shavings (prob from aluminum from the piston as it transferred to the cylinder). Big end bearing seems fine (no up and down movement).

When i pressurized it I blocked off the exhaust by putting innertube material on the cylinder side of the muffler and bolted it on. Intake side I put innertube material on the cylinder side with a fitting from my mityvac in it and bolted on the intake block. I had to work hard to get it up to 7psi, it was leaking moderately fast. I was pretty satisfied that it was a tight seal but I might try to make something similar to the factory tools in the 120si manual.

Is there a way to determine between radial seal or crankcase seal if I can do an accurate pressure test? Soapy water sprayed on the seal?

With the cylinder and all openings blocked and low air pressure applied then soapy water it is. It may save you from splitting the case. No need for special tools to remove the seals, don`t they just come out like regular seals?
Pioneerguy600
 
I am pretty shure that tool would do the job, I just use a homemade sharp scribe and punch the metal part of the seal, put a fulcrum under the shaft and pry the seal up, grab with needle nose pliers and pull it out. Even works better if the seal is tapped in just a ltttle to break it free before piercing the metal part of the seal with the scribe, it must be very sharp with a long taper.
Pioneerguy600
 
Begging:cry: for NOS or used muffler for a Dolmar 9010 / Makita 9000 if anyone has a spare they are willing let go. Been rebuilding an older Makita 9000 and trying to save a few on parts. Thanks, Roger


I believe this part is still available from dealers.

Looks like it should be part # 024 174 153 for USA saws. There is at least one sponsor here that can get the parts if you can't find them locally.



Mr. HE:cool:
 
Going EURO-----Muffler that is

Begging:cry: for NOS or used muffler for a Dolmar 9010 / Makita 9000 if anyone has a spare they are willing let go. Been rebuilding an older Makita 9000 and trying to save a few on parts. Thanks, Roger

Solved problem, looks like there is not any 9000 cans out there even in the new parts they now show as obsolete:bang: so the next best option unless I TIG one up is to go EURO style that I think comes chrome plated with like a turbo flare or something! Way bad bling for Ms Makita:yoyo:
 
Any viewers of this thread have any Sachs Dolmar 117 parts they would part with reasonably? I am in need of a crank & con rod, & the clutch side part of the crankcase. Or the whole lower end...
I had a fellow give me (thank goodness) a 117 that he had left outside,:mad::mad: because it "wasn't running right". But he said "It wasn't that long" that it had sat. However, it was long enough for water to trickle down from the air cleaner screw, through the carb, to the piston, (rings stopped above the intake port) fill up the crankcase with water & seize up both crank bearings & the lower rod bearing. At least I didn't buy it!
 

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