Safely cutting leaners

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Well, I got the job done. I did my face cuts on the top side, bore cut and left a backstrap. Used a wedge and cut the backstrap from below with a good escape route. I made sure to leave lots of hinge and the tree I was working on rolled off the snag with a little help from a line. Not too bad, but not something I want to play with on a regular basis. I left another one for the wind to take care of.
 
Glad you're okay and have a chance to put some $ in your pocket.

Last night my wife told me she heard a huge tree crash down behind my house yesterday. I was so excited that I grabbed a flashlight and went out in the snowstorm to have a look. It's @ 26" diam. oak or ash, I think. Nice firewood, which I really need for next year.
Well, my excitement was short-lived. It's hung in a large fork of a white birch which is now bent over hard. That, and the stump split up about 3' and then the backstrap let go, leaving a dutchman(?) type hang up on the stump. I know a few pro. loggers around here but I don't know if they would go near this thing with a saw. I don't know that I could pull it down with a tractor and cables due to it being in that fork.
You wanna come give this one a try ? LOLJK.
 
Brian ... that would be EASY for any pro. I'm no pro and I'd do it. Good luck

I guess the birch would help for fenceposting it. That stump just scares the hell out of me, though. It really looks like the trunk wants to shoot back further past the stump and there doesn't seem to be a lot holding it from doing so.
I dunno. I'm a newb.
 
If it isn't attached to the stump- pull it out with a truck or tractor. Only do the fencepost thing when you need to.

If there isn't a lot holding it, can you just hook up a chain and yank with a tractor or truck? Can you help with a few small cuts?

If it is attached to the stump too much too pull, there are a few options. You can cut the stump or you can cut the tree. Most of the time, cutting the tree is better, as the tree will drop straight down most of the time. If it is broken too high or you think there is back force, you can face cut the stump on the side and back cut it so the hinge is parallel to the way the tree fell and wedge or pull it over. Once over, then pull the tree out of the fork.

Hope this makes sense.
 
Loaded up branches and trees are still scary to me. Every little cut gets evaluated now before it's done. It's bad how careless I was a few months ago when I picked up a chainsaw for the first time completely clueless to the danger I was putting myself in. After much reading and cutting, I am able to "read" the wood a lot better, not pinching my bar, not cutting dirty wood, etc...oh and those wedges are not for doorstops, people actually use those things for dropping trees!
 
If it is attached to the stump too much too pull, there are a few options.

I think there is quite a bit of backforce. It's still attached to the stump and the stump is split from the ground up to the trunk. I'll have a better look at it tonight and try to get some pics.
 
The real scary thing is these trees are 1/4 mile from the road and all wood has to be removed by manpower. The trouble people go to around here for firewood would make a normal person cringe. I have done about 8 cords from this location, all transported by manpower. What I would give for a team of oxen! Green wood sells for $250 a cord so it is worth it for me!

Are you using a cart or wheelbarrow? A 1/4 mile is a heck of a distance.
 
I'm using a utility sled. 2-3 rounds at a time to the top edge of a ravine then rolling them down to the trail. Backbreaking labor for sure. I seriously envy all of you that have easy wood to get. Everything easy here has been gone for years, or is illegal. A few weeks ago, I was taking trips with the sled to the edge of the hill and saw two guys with a Toyota had loaded about a dozen of my rounds in their truck. It is ruthless around here- they made a quick exit. I have gone as far as to brush away my sled tracks and footprints in the snow to hide my trail. Woodcutting spots are as secret as good hunting spots.
 
I seriously envy all of you that have easy wood to get.
I have 6 nice maples on the ground a farmer gave me. I just need to buck them. They're only 100' down a hill behind his house. I haven't got them yet because I'm lazy and waiting for dry ground so I can pick them up at the bottom of the hill with my truck rather than haul them up by sled or something. LOL !
You're more man than I am, hauling those 1/4 mile.
 
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Getting hung ups down is fraught with danger!
Glad you got your down safely...

Some tips for the future:

Inspect the hung up and see whether it can be turned or rolled out of the one it is caught in, which is the ideal first move.

Invest in some long turning strops, either endless loops or eye/eye ones
A good long length 150' or so of bull rope.
Some more strops to use as anchors
Some big shackles or steel carabiners
A couple of decent pulleys for redirecting the line as necessary or for doubling the pull ratio
A decent come along / wire rope puller / manual winch (you did say machinery was not an option)

Assess the situation and identify risks and what could concevably go wrong
Take appropriate action to reduce risk
Wear your PPE - chaps and HELMET system
Work with a buddy
Have an emergency plan in place BEFORE cutting, truck pointing forward, keys in ignition, adequate first aid kit, cell phone, radio, written description of where you are (people can forget when a crisis hits) let others know where you will be working and when you plan to return.

Wrap a strop around the trunk such that when you attach a winch to it it will unwind and roll the tree to the side it wants to go.
If it is stuck in a fork, attach the strop to pull it out backwards.
Attach your pulling rope

Separate the trunk from the stump, there are several ways to do it, keep reading, asking questions, above all READ the tension and compression and be ready for sudden movement, it MAY just come down kerwhump! all of a sudden!

Select the anchor tree carefully, make sure it will hold against the forces.
Give yourself enough distance to complete the pull
If redirecting the pull line, NEVER stand in the 'triangle of death'
Always give yourself enough room for safety, look out for hangers and widowmakers, before AND after the pull

NEVER WALK UNDER a hungup, it can fall with no warning, stresses change and settle after cuts are made and it can fatal or life altering if you are under it when it goes!

Cutting bits off the bottom is a last resort, if you HAVE to do it, be SUPER aware, have your escape route well prepared.

Cheers
 
You're more man than I am, hauling those 1/4 mile.

Yeah right, all 155lbs of me. I am a stay at home dad so I will take drastic measures to make play money.
Also, thanks for the tips Bermie.
 
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Man you guys do it the hard way. Safest choice is simple. Move to WA. It aint cold enough here to worry about dying for firewood. Now dying of thirst waiting for the barmaid to notice you when its 3 deep on a friday night is a distinct possibility.
 
Hello, I'm brand new here, I signed up to ask questions but I thought I'd throw this in.
When I get a widow maker here it's usually over a line fence in steep woods hillsides where I can't get a line to it. I back/bottom cut as high as I can reach and as deep as I dare, then back off and cut it off with the .243 with a combination of softpoints and full metal jackets.

I have not done one as large as yours, but I have done 16/18" oak with 10 to 30 shots depending on the backcut you can get. Cheap,quick, and safe.

Oldsawman

HOLY SWEET F%#@k. THAT IS RETARDED!
Better yet dump 50 dollars of gas on it and burn it down. LOL:greenchainsaw:
 
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