Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[rarefish383]

Hey Joe. Was good to finally meet you and @Multifaceted at the GTG saturday. guess i should have ran that 1050. @James Miller said it was a beast. i was to tired after cuttin firewood in that heat. i see them saws we were talking about are stihl listed.

You should have grabbed it, it's only heavy when you are holding it. Once you set it on the wood it does all the work, till it comes out the other end, then you have to pick it up again. I started to bring the other one with the 36" bar and mill, but my truck is in the shop, and it would't fit in the trunk. I know the old 1050 will hold with/out mill the 660. I'd like to see how it does against an 880. I imagine the bigger saws really start to shine when you get above 36". I wish the guys with the duel head 090's had of got them tuned in. I brought some lanyard rope to make James a safety lanyard for his climbing saw, and then forgot to make it. He's about my size, so I can make one that fits me and mail it to him. I'll give Miles a call about those saws. I figure he's about 2 hours from me, and if I take the truck, that would add about $100 to the price of anything I bought. When he told me $4000 on the Disston Bow, that knocked me out of the league. If he still has them, is there anything you would like? I would like the one Homelite he has and one of the small Bows, maybe a couple Macs. I think he understands that most of the saws are $20 fillers, filling in around the couple rare ones. I'll PM you my cell and let me know if there is anything you like in the pile.

 

[rarefish383]

That super 1050 needed more bar would have been fun to lay it into one of the big logs. Wish I'd have gotten a chance to run T rollers P60. Randy said we should make the trip down for his GTG .

I've got a couple 36" bars for it. I missed an NOS 60" a few years ago. You can't tell any difference in how it pulls in Oak, between the 24" and 36". I've always wanted to stick a bigger bar on it and see where it starts to give out. A few pics up is my old Homelite 7-29 gear drive with a 52" bar on it. I never got it running, and Chris, in Australia, told me he needed one for his collection. So, it now lives in Australia. Was Randy there? I should have shaken more hands. I'd like to make his GTG. That P60 was nice. I bought a Pioneer 700D at the scrap yard for $12.50. The 700D is a little bigger at 107CC's, but I have no idea how the two compare. I posted pics of it and another member here wanted it, so, down the road it went too. Are you going to pursue climbing. I can mail you that safety strap, it probably wouldn't cost $1 to ship, and I have miles of that size rope. So it's no big deal. There are nicer store bought ones available in the $20-$30 range, but mine is free.

 

[chipper1]

Do you not use ripping chain, or file a chain to rip? I've a feeling it's just a smaller angle, 5 or 10, instead of 15 degrees, could be wrong though.

Milling chain typically has a top place angle of 10-11 degrees vs standard cross cut chain at 25-30.

 

[rarefish383]

Hey Joe. Was good to finally meet you and @Multifaceted at the GTG saturday. guess i should have ran that 1050. @James Miller said it was a beast. i was to tired after cuttin firewood in that heat. i see them saws we were talking about are stihl listed.

He just called back, they all sold in a single sale this weekend.

 

[chipper1]

He just called back, they all sold in a single sale this weekend.

Bummer, but sometimes I've found it's better that way, I just don't always see it that way right after it happens lol.

 

[farmer steve]

He just called back, they all sold in a single sale this weekend.

i wonder if it was the big money guy you told me about.

 

[rarefish383]

He told me he saw one of the Disston DA211's with the big bow sell on ebay last year for $4000, and that was his offer. I didn't see enough other pricey stuff to go that high. I thought there were 5 or 6 desirable saws there. But others know a lot more than me. I was happy for him it all went at once. It's a pain to part out a big collection of anything, and then you get stuck with all of the leftovers.

 

[James Miller]

My uncle handed me his saw today and said it runs for 10 minutes and then want restart if you shut it off. Any ideas be or I start a new thread in the chainsaw section. Iv never worked with an AT saw before.

 

[chipper1]

View attachment 656005 My uncle handed me his saw today and said it runs for 10 minutes and then want restart if you shut it off. Any ideas be or I start a new thread in the chainsaw section. Iv never worked with an AT saw before.

Most common cause for that symptom is the saw is flooding. Run it for 10 minutes then shut it off, restart without any choke. Some of them start well with the high speed idle on, each saw is different.

 

[rarefish383]

View attachment 656005 My uncle handed me his saw today and said it runs for 10 minutes and then want restart if you shut it off. Any ideas be or I start a new thread in the chainsaw section. Iv never worked with an AT saw before.

AT? is that Automatic Transmission, I prefer a 4 speed.

 

[chipper1]

Most common cause for that symptom is the saw is flooding. Run it for 10 minutes then shut it off, restart without any choke. Some of them start well with the high speed idle on, each saw is different.

I should have said; The most common cause for that symptom is the operator is flooding the saw.

 

[chipper1]

AT? is that Automatic Transmission, I prefer a 4 speed.

Your age is showing again, and I'm not talking about in regards to driving a stick, but a 4 speed lol.
We are talking about stick in the good morning thread right now, too funny.

 

[James Miller]

Most common cause for that symptom is the saw is flooding. Run it for 10 minutes then shut it off, restart without any choke. Some of them start well with the high speed idle on, each saw is different.

I maid some cuts with it. It runs fine wide open. Shuts off as soon as it drops to idle and will restart right away with the throttle lock on. Any tips for getting it to idle?

 

[chipper1]

I maid some cuts with it. It runs fine wide open. Shuts off as soon as it drops to idle and will restart right away with the throttle lock on. Any tips for getting it to idle?

The first thing I would do is to check all the hoses off the carb on the outside of the tank(that area of those saws is prone to excessive heat which was one of the main cause of issues with them), treat it just like any other saw as far as checking the simple things first.
That's an older version of that saw, it's probably a 2012-2013, the primer bulb is dark and not clear telling me that the fuel system has some build up in it.
Check the fuel filter after looking the lines over, these are all the things you would check on any saw that had a fuel problem.
Check compression right away also if you can as that will give the same symptom you just described, if you can't check compression(it's a small hole) then pull the muffler cover to inspect the piston for scoring.
Don't keep running it until you find a problem and fix it.

 

[LondonNeil]

have you done the simple first? check air filter, check fuel filter, use fresh mix

 

[James Miller]

Your age is showing again, and I'm not talking about in regards to driving a stick, but a 4 speed lol.
We are talking about stick in the good morning thread right now, too funny.

Driving stick will be a lost art by the time my kids can drive. If you take the manual trans out of the sports car you also take the sport out of the sports car. Autos are for bracket racers and daily commuters .

 

[James Miller]

The first thing I would do is to check all the hoses off the carb on the outside of the tank(that area of those saws is prone to excessive heat which was one of the main cause of issues with them), treat it just like any other saw as far as checking the simple things first.
That's an older version of that saw, it's probably a 2012-2013, the primer bulb is dark and not clear telling me that the fuel system has some build up in it.
Check the fuel filter after looking the lines over, these are all the things you would check on any saw that had a fuel problem.
Check compression right away also if you can as that will give the same symptom you just described, if you can't check compression(it's a small hole) then pull the muffler cover to inspect the piston for scoring.
Don't keep running it until you find a problem and fix it.

The P/C are spotless that' the first thing I check on any saw I work on. I'll go over the fuel lines and take a look at the filter.

 

[MustangMike]

I would dump the fuel and replace plug, air filter and fuel filter before anything else. Recently, a MS460 would not even give me a kick from a prime until I dumped the fuel + replaced it. Turns out there was water in the fuel which was likely over riding the prime. Kicked on 1st pull after that, felt foolish I had not done it earlier.

 

[MustangMike]

For round file, 30 degrees is for cross cut, and 10 degrees is usually used for rip (+ milling). You can mill with the same angle, but it will not stay sharp as long. Also, narrow kerf chain (if you can get it) will speed things up (Stihll makes narrow kerf for Logisol, but you can not buy it at a Stihl dealer, see Baileys).

With square file, you just use the same angles for all of it, and it will out rip (mill) round file.

 

[neely]

Sucking more air at idle than fuel, like Chipper and others have said ck fuel lines , manifold and boot for cracks or air lks ,