I think I need more throttle. Chain is moving too slow and it grabs.
Never run a chain saw at anything other than idle or WOT, they aren't designed to run at part throttle.
I think I need more throttle. Chain is moving too slow and it grabs.
395's were never taught how to plunge cut. The 661's get mandatory plunge cut 101 classes before leaving the factory.I tried that. I watched vids. Then tried it like they did in the vids. Saw spits itself out of the tree.
Start with the bottom part of the bar nose and cut a bit and then tilt your way into it.
I tried that. I watched vids. Then tried it like they did in the vids. Saw spits itself out of the tree.
I think I need more throttle. Chain is moving too slow and it grabs.
I probably plunge cut more than any other cut. I'm a little nervous when it comes to leaners and barber chairs. Make sure you got the rpm's up and angle the tip when starting. Once you get it started you can usually just push the saw through. Your gonna cut most of the side anyways so if you have to scribe it wider than the tip to make it work that doesn't matter. Pretty crazy how small of a strap can hold so much wood.
Never run a chain saw at anything other than idle or WOT, they aren't designed to run at part throttle.
ALL of my saws musta missed the class.395's were never taught how to plunge cut. The 661's get mandatory plunge cut 101 classes before leaving the factory.
Ooops "I currently have some 90-100 cord, half or more is locust, in the 'wood yard'. I took a good look this monring. Make that some 60=70 cords out there, most being Black Locust".
Tried taking a film clip of me splitting wood. Now all I have to do is figure out how to down load from the camera and if it's there, how to post it here. Someone sent me instructions and they sound simple enought for even I to do it.
Well that rules out chain types and bar nose widths. So I'm guessing youtube university for you. Won't take you long to get the hang of it. I find the worst is when plunging into a rip cut as opposed to a cross cut.ALL of my saws musta missed the class.
oh dear....that pic makes my face hurt. No way would I try that with a top handle. I must be ********.View attachment 677809 Even my t handle got plunge cutting 101.
I have all full comp/full chisel with standard .025" depth filed into the depth guage.Well that rules out chain types and bar nose widths. So I'm guessing youtube university for you. Won't take you long to get the hang of it. I find the worst is when plunging into a rip cut as opposed to a cross cut.
Edit- Are you setting your rakers pretty deep on all your chains? If so, can you try a full comp loop with a tame raker setting?
Your not ******** it takes practice. You'll get it. I did a lot of horizontal practice before I ever tried one with the saw vertical.oh dear....that pic makes my face hurt. No way would I try that with a top handle. I must be ********.
One thing to think about when you actually get the bar in the wood; when you bore into a tree next to a face cut it's best to practice with the face cut on your left/the bottom of the bar towards the notch. If you have the top of the bar on the notch side it will creep closer and closer to hinge.Its just me. I'll try again.
I agree.I think I would feel safer trying it virticle because your wrist is right behind the chain brake. When you flip the saw horizontal your arm isnt behind the brake.
Chain type and how they are sharpened can make a big difference .Are you setting your rakers pretty deep on all your chains? If so, can you try a full comp loop with a tame raker setting?
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