Outdoor Wood Boiler
Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)
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I believe its outside/outdoor wood burner. @H-Ranch will know. I was just messing with the only white birch.
Well lionsfan answered it. I forgot they were boilers.
Here in Rocky Mtn Colorado a winter resident robin is not unusual. Had one show up last week on our deck despite much snow and occasional single digit or less temps. Of course we also get much sun & unfrozen days too. Today we hit 60* for a bit. That and sun reflected off the weekend's 10" snow makes for about the best you can get in mid-February. Not too shabby.
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My mother grew up in Burnsville and we used to make lefse, rosettes, and krumkaka every christmas. I realize those last two are probably spelled wrong. We still have lefse but seems her and her mother always bring up lutefisk and I've heard them say exactly what you said. Maybe some day I'll try it, until then I'll continue to pile in the lefse.
Burner is probably correct too as there are "air stoves" out there.
I usually explain mine as an outdoor wood burner to those who ask. Boiler makes people think of a pressurized system and most OWB's are open to the atmosphere. Boiler may be the more commonly accepted definition though. Generally heating water to heat a building through a few different options of heat exchangers.
There are a few systems that heat air to heat the building that I would call an outdoor wood furnace. They may also grouped as OWB's.
I bought a gallon of evaporust at Tractor Supply. Poured it in a plastic bucket and I think I threw every rusty piece of metal I could find in it. It's about $30 a gal, but You can just keep reusing it and it works very well. If its oily it is best to degrease first. I actually have a very rusty cast iron stew pot I poured it in, along with a bunch of old tools, and it did remove the scaley rust, but it also turned the pot black. I don't know what's in evaporust.
I've been using electrolysis to remove rust... I bought a cheap, dumb, power supply on Amazon; use a plastic waste paper basket for a container; opened up and flattened cans for sacrificial anodes; Arm & Hammer washing soda dissolved in water for the electrolyte. It works very well in that it only removes the rust and not the sound metal and it is self limiting (i.e., when the rust is gone the process stops). In some cases the rust may be under paint, chrome, nickel, etc., and those finishes will be removed with the rust. I use a brass or steel brush and water to card off the loose material when it's done. Then I spray the item with WD-40 to displace the water and keep surface rust from forming.
Some sources recommend a battery charger for the power supply. However, I found that the newer "smart" chargers shut themselves off and the process fails.
The process is also scalable. If you want to remove the rust from something like a large bandsaw table (3' x 3') you can use a plastic kiddie pool for the container.
The guys who are really big into cast iron restoration all use electrolysis tanks. It’s much better as it removes everything in one shot versus having to do one soak for crud and then a separate one for rust. And especially if you have cast-iron that isn’t smooth, it can be a real pain to scrub the rust off.
In other lye news, corn is cooked with wood ash to loosen and remove the hulls. It is then called "nixtamal" which is then ground and use to make tortillas.
It was also a common practice to boil your traps in a pot with water and Red Devil lye to remove the old dye and wax and rust and whatnot to clean them up before fresh dye and wax.
I’ve seen set ups with old train transformers. I’ve also seen guys in the Model T and A clubs use molasses. You have to get the kind at a feed store with sulfur in it. Not grocery store eating kind. Check it out on YouTube. A piece of cast iron comes out looking like it just came out of the mold. I used evoporust on some of my old axes. It only turned the hardened part black?
I've got some of my Dad's layout tools and hammers that I want to clean the rust off. I was going to use Evaporust since I have it. What would you use to keep the rust from coming back? WD-40? I'm afraid to use that because of transfer to the wood (woodworking).
I like to use Fluid Film to prevent rust, but that would make your "transfer" problem worse.
I guess if not working with wood you eat off of Silicon would be a good choice.
I guess if not working with wood you eat off of Silicon would be a good choice.
Thinking just take a couple mins to clean the tools before use after a preventative measure to curb rust was applied
I've used WD-40 on my fine woodworking tools for decades with no ill effects. I spray the tools and then wipe them off to remove the excess. For "smooth" tools like try squares and back saws I spray a shop rag or paper towel and wipe the tool down. I avoid spraying wooden handles on tools (e.g., hand plane totes, spoke shave handles). Like with wax on hand plane soles, the WD-40 tends to wipe off the tool early in the stock prep and any initial contamination to the wood is removed via planing, scraping and/or sanding. I also wipe down the tables of my stationary tools and tailed hand tools. The cast iron tables receive a coat of paste wax also to aid in moving stock and to add some protection.
I've used either just WD-40 or rub with a rag dipped in motor oil.
Also-for those using vinegar soaks, etc it is important to rinse and dry the iron/metal over heat then IMMEDIATELY apply rust preventative. The iron will otherwise flash rust before your eyes.
Would any type of wax be acceptable? Otherwise, consider keeping them in a heated cabinet, storing with desiccant, or get some of that fancy, anti-corrosion paper that they ship those tools in.
Philbert
Linseed oil or just mineral oil . Not boiled linseed that has petroleum byproducts to speed drying
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