Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Wherever will I find a PT that would agree that firewood chores are good therapy???

@Cowboy254 are you busy this month?

well my GP doctor a few years ago said he didn't know what I was doing to stay as fit as I was in my 80s but to continue doing whatever it was. That was obviously referring to my wooding but I think he forgot about his constant hitting on my beer consumption.
 
This is true!

And don't believe everything you see on Deadliest Catch! A lot of it is scripted BS! I'm just saying.
I lived in Petersburg, Ak. for a couple years when I was in the Coast Guard, spent my share of time getting beat to pulp in The Gulf of Alaska during Black Cod and Halibut openers. Had big ambitions of going to Kodiak, but as fate would have it I ended up on an ice breaker in the Great Lakes, fell head over heels for a Polak girl and my wandering days came to an end.
 
I lived in Petersburg, Ak. for a couple years when I was in the Coast Guard, spent my share of time getting beat to pulp in The Gulf of Alaska during Black Cod and Halibut openers. Had big ambitions of going to Kodiak, but as fate would have it I ended up on an ice breaker in the Great Lakes, fell head over heels for a Polak girl and my wandering days came to an end.
So you know the secret….how many it takes to change a lightbulb...lol
 
Dropped the other half of a birch that I had started on earlier in the week, or last week. Can't remember which. When I cut the first half down, I didn't pay close enough attention. I thought it was completely dead, and as you can see in the pictures, it's not. There are parts that are definitely dead and hollowed out in the middle, but the tops are still green and getting leaves. So, it won't be ready to burn in the fireplace this year, but some of the drier stuff will be burned in our outdoor firepit. I'm new to this whole outdoor wood boiler thing, so I don't know the rules about burning "partially green" wood in it. Is that okay, or should it be completely dry for that?6-4-22 4.jpg6-4-22 5.jpg6-4-22 3.jpg6-4-22 2.jpg6-4-22 6.jpg6-4-22 7.jpg6-4-22 12.jpg
 
Dropped the other half of a birch that I had started on earlier in the week, or last week. Can't remember which. When I cut the first half down, I didn't pay close enough attention. I thought it was completely dead, and as you can see in the pictures, it's not. There are parts that are definitely dead and hollowed out in the middle, but the tops are still green and getting leaves. So, it won't be ready to burn in the fireplace this year, but some of the drier stuff will be burned in our outdoor firepit. I'm new to this whole outdoor wood boiler thing, so I don't know the rules about burning "partially green" wood in it. Is that okay, or should it be completely dry for that?View attachment 993431View attachment 993432View attachment 993433View attachment 993434View attachment 993435View attachment 993436View attachment 993438
Nice score….

and the boiler monster will eat anything that remotely looks like wood….
 
I'm new to this whole outdoor wood boiler thing, so I don't know the rules about burning "partially green" wood in it. Is that okay, or should it be completely dry for that?
Just like any other wood burning device, dry wood burns the best in an OWB. Burning wet wood means burning more and causes more smoke which gives wood burners a bad name. And that is what causes them to be banned and further regulated.
 
What’s the black thing with orange on the end? Do,you use it to maneuver your splitter around? ..lol..more power to you, those days are long gone for me….
I'm a couple months from 70, when I might just reconsider my style:

IMG_0695.jpg

Busting them to liftable size with an old Sears maul, then breaking them down to firewood size with that "black thing with orange on the end".
 
I'm a couple months from 70, when I might just reconsider my style:

View attachment 993449

Busting them to liftable size with an old Sears maul, then breaking them down to firewood size with that "black thing with orange on the end".
I think the devil made those tools…and the dethatching rake….lol
 
Ok so here's the quick and ugly of things. I'm into 1/5 scale rc. I also love chainsaws and just about anything with a 2 stroke. In rc land our 32-35cc engines typically dyno between 7 and 9hp. Very high rpm (21k) and high load demands on them. So most guys go crazy with 30-25 to 1 oil ratios. Most of these engines in stock form would be considered ported compared to our saws. I typically run 40 to 1 in mine. Now our saws for all purposes are low performance, but high load. The 50 to 1 is a pure emissions thing. There is factory documentation that most saws over 60cc (from husqvarna) should be in the 33 to 1 range. My 2 go to saws for years have been a 562xp (60cc) and my 390xp (88cc) so to avoid confusion I run them all on 40 to 1. I have yet to have issues with engine longevity, or seized any engines. Now if we want to look at my old mc cinder blocks even the pm605 suggests a 16 to 1 oil ratio on a straight 30wt engine oil. This was true for the 10-10 as well. They suggested a lighter ratio with a specified mcculloch 2 stroke oil mix. They both live (lived in the case of the 10-10, I don't own it anymore) happy lives on 40 to 1 oil mix.

Really the ratio can be determined on 2 factors alone, expected load and top rpm. 2 strokes are a wasted lubrication system. It cones in with the fuel and is burned during combustion and or expelled with the exhaust. So the faster we spin an engine the less time it has to stay (oil) in the engine to do its job. Oil saws spin pretty slow in the greater scheme of things. Then we have expected load. Our saws spend most of their time pulling a chain through wood, doing a hard job in sub optimal conditions. So they have a high load. So there for we need more oil to keep things lubricated properly. This mainly is for piston wear as the bearings can live a pretty happy life with minimal oil. (So long as they don't get excessively hot)
Once you factor in modern synthetic oils, and additive packages you fund you don't really need as much oil as you think. Really some where between 33 and 40 to 1 is sufficient for most of our saws. (Larger displacement, milling etc). Now when we look at the broad range of power equipment and their tasks, factor in epa requirements you quickly come to realize that homenowner use far out weighs that market and the higher oil ratios for moderately powered engines isn't needed. Thus you have the std 50 to 1 ratio. It's fine, just ideal in many cases. Larger displacement and higher loads just need a but of extra cushion.
Really when you get down to it it can't really hurt the equipment at any rate, so long as the carb is (can be) tuned for the higher amount of oil running through the engine.
WOW! Super long-winded post. 40:1 is the answer, to the original question.......they either smoke or scream. Lets all get back to cutting wood. Science class was out 2 years ago............
 
WOW! Super long-winded post. 40:1 is the answer, to the original question.......they either smoke or scream. Lets all get back to cutting wood. Science class was out 2 years ago............
So you make decisions based on what? Emotions and feelings? Moat people out there don't really know why a certain ratio is specified or for what reasons. There's nothing wrong with sharing knowledge. If you didn't want to read my post you could have skipped right over it. I'm an engine guy, this facenates me, and I'm sure many other appreciated the background knowledge as well.
 
I’ve ran K2 ahd R50 with no issues although the super premium oils don’t have much for dye in them versus the factory brand oils turn your premix to a very nice hue of purple, green, or blue. Even though I’m the person who mixes it and I know that I only use pre-mix in a couple of special cans, it’s still unnerving to pour basically clear fuel into an expensive saw.
I just use 5.2 oz of mix to 1.8 gallons of fuel and then add a splash of whatever I have on hand to add color, gets me close enough to 40:1, and for sure a bit better than the 45:1 I start with and more color. Sure I could add dye, but a little oil of any flavor does great, even if it's stihl ultra :baba:, I'm really not a fan..
 

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