Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Yea looking for something small and non catalytic since I have alot of popple to burn. The N-S loading will be easier for the wife to maintain a fire in. Looks like a place in Standish is a dealer for jotol stoves I will stop and see. Some wood burners I looked at have 6-12mo delivery time
I cant believe how low a stock these places have. I'm starting to believe these places are going to build per order where they wont carry it anymore in stock they build it per order.
 
Yes, Bluestone absorbs heat quite well.

It is a flat, fairly soft, puros stone. The only place in the world that has it are that part of NY and PA. Bluestone mining and Logging are big industries up there, especially as the farming has receded. Mostly Hard Maple, Ash, Black Cherry, and Red Oak. There are also some Birch and Beech, but I never see any White Oak, Chestnut Oak, Tulip or Hickory up there, all of which are fairly common down here. Logging is generally only trees over 14" diameter, there is no clear cutting.

It is ideal for walkways, steps and patios because you will not slip when it is wet. It is also very commonly used for windowsills and fireplace mantles.

In my old (small) cabin I have two pieces of it against the wall where the woodstove is. I tell folks I have "real sheetrock"!
That's good to know thanks ill have to use that when we cook with the cast iron up north.
 
If a person cleans the rails out on thier saw bar with a horse shoe nail or some other thin pointy piece if metal every time he takes his chain off when swapping out chains.

I've always cleaned the bar rails on a regular basis

At least one of the Stihl raker filing gauges has hooks on one end specifically for cleaning the bar rails.
I have posted this before: a little ‘kit’ that I place in each saw case and tool bag, for field cleaning.

Old toothbrush, used Sawzall blade, cut off paint brush. Basically ’free’

At home I use an air compressor.

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Philbert
 
Good to know! 👍 I didn't know that the Stihl raker gage had a rail cleaner on it!

I got mine way back. I dunno if there is one currently in stock. I looked for a part number on it but there isn't any. Very convenient and don't have to go looking for something that will 'fit'.
 
I cant believe how low a stock these places have. I'm starting to believe these places are going to build per order where they wont carry it anymore in stock they build it per order.
No doubt, my dad went with pleasant hearth wood burner because it was 800$ and made in USA I believe and up to 2200 sqft. That little jotul should fit nicely where I need it to go and the clearances are alot smaller than a bigger stove. I was gonna try Vermont castings aspen but the feedback I got here was 99% negative lol.
 
I got mine way back. I dunno if there is one currently in stock. I looked for a part number on it but there isn't any. Very convenient and don't have to go looking for something that will 'fit'.
I've had this one for quite awhile, but can't recall exactly where I acquired it. I didn't think it had a brand name on it, but lo and behold, it's a Mac! I don't think I've ever used it to set my rakers or check my angles, but I do use 20220823_171144.jpgit to clean out my bars.
 
It's always better to grease bearings IMHO. I always put air tool oil in my 90s and impacts and all other air tools. I know barely anybody does it. Does it increase the life of it...who knows but grease and oil is cheap to I figure what the heck it cant hurt.
Not all roller tip bars are designed to be greased . My Pioneer Oregon are , they came with a small packable grease gun for the roller tip . I give the nose a quick squirt every usage which is perhaps twice a year for my old girls . Most modern bar the oil groove on the rail is adequate to ensure flow to the roller tip bearing if the groove is cleaned periodically usually during routine bar maintenance & truing .
 
Another day, rotary cutting!

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AND another satisfied customer! lol

SR
 
I have posted this before: a little ‘kit’ that I place in each saw case and tool bag, for field cleaning.

Old toothbrush, used Sawzall blade, cut off paint brush. Basically ’free’

At home I use an air compressor.

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Philbert
I just use the horse shoe nail on my log tape. With the exception of the air filter. I only clean my saw whenever I pack out of strip before packing into a new one. Cleaning it usually consists of a half a** blow out with air then back in the pickup. I sell my saws at half cost after six months and buy a new one. By then they've paid for themselves several times over!👍
 
We finally had some rain here today. Was up at the cabin over the WE and even though it rained up there Sat evening and Sun afternoon, nothing down here.

Supposed to be some more tomorrow.
It finally poured at our place in N.E. too and we really needed it. I was getting tired of watering the garden.
 
My Ruger M-77 in 300 Win Mag did very well today at the range. It is a Bi-Centennial gun with a tang safety.

I've put a lot of rounds through it over the years, so it prefers the bullet to be set out a little further than will fit in the magazine. If I want to hunt with 3 bullets in the gun I load one short to fit in the magazine, then put a long one on top of it and another long one in the chamber.

The short ones usually shoot 1.5 - 2" at 100 yds. Today, the long ones made a 7/16" 3 shot group. Then I adjusted the scope and the next two bullets were 5/8" apart in the pouring rain.

My load is a 168 grain Barnes TTSX over 78 grains of the original Norma MRP with a CCI mag primer. (This is the old MRP, Norma discontinued it then re-introduced it a little bit different). My Hornady third edition shows a max load of 79.2 produces 3,200 FPS.
 
Yea, we saw a pair just losing their spots on my property also, but I didn't see Mom around!

But it is encouraging we are seeing lots of twins being born.

MechanicMatt sent me a pic of 7 does in a field we have permission to hunt. Last year, there was nothing there, likely EHD.
 
Wow. I haven't been on here in a week or so. Been dealing with some stuff, and hosting family. This page gathers no moss!

I had family here over the weekend, and we took my 10 year old nephew out shooting with his dad (my brother), and our dad. I started him off on a B.B. gun that I got at the local Ace, then he moved up to a .177 pellet gun. And finally, he squeezed off a few with a .22 rifle and a 9mm handgun.

I haven't cut or split any firewood in over a week, and really need to get at it. Feeling guilty about not "earning my keep" around the house lately!FB_IMG_1661281803924.jpg

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My Ruger M-77 in 300 Win Mag did very well today at the range. It is a Bi-Centennial gun with a tang safety.

I've put a lot of rounds through it over the years, so it prefers the bullet to be set out a little further than will fit in the magazine. If I want to hunt with 3 bullets in the gun I load one short to fit in the magazine, then put a long one on top of it and another long one in the chamber.

The short ones usually shoot 1.5 - 2" at 100 yds. Today, the long ones made a 7/16" 3 shot group. Then I adjusted the scope and the next two bullets were 5/8" apart in the pouring rain.

My load is a 168 grain Barnes TTSX over 78 grains of the original Norma MRP with a CCI mag primer. (This is the old MRP, Norma discontinued it then re-introduced it a little bit different). My Hornady third edition shows a max load of 79.2 produces 3,200 FPS.
Reminds me time to pull out the new 30-378 Weatherby and hit the range also . Last Moose Season it replaced my venerable Remington 700 . A little heavier to carry , but when loading 240 gr. partition silver tips its a one shot round . :blob2:
 
I've done a lot of ballistic testing (on both wet newspaper and wet phone books) and other media and have concluded that bullet construction is far more important than bullet weight.

Because the Barns copper bullets open up with 4 pedals (instead of a full mushroom) they penetrate about 50% deeper than anything else. The spinning of the bullet makes the pedals cut veins and arteries like an arrowhead.
 

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