They are very handy wood tool .Those Woodchuck Timber Jacks are super handy tools. Not just for cutting either.
This was last year and finally persuading a log that was frozen to the ground to move.
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They are very handy wood tool .Those Woodchuck Timber Jacks are super handy tools. Not just for cutting either.
This was last year and finally persuading a log that was frozen to the ground to move.
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I agree with the first part, and while the second part may be true for certain models, it's not true for all of them, especially in my BIL's hands . He leaves the 700BDL and the AK at home most times and grabs one of the SKS's. Couple yrs ago he got to the public land parking, got out and removed the SKS from it's case, loaded it up and when he turned around he saw a deer on the run at 75yrds, dropped it and went to put the gun back in his truck and there was another at 50yrds, shot it, then put the gun away .I own a SKS they are fun to blow up pumpkins and watermelons with....but it's a lead slinger and not to be confused with a accurate rifle.
The mosin was a trial thing. I did expect better from it. It was a very cheap gun.I've had guns like that 99 percent of the time I have to mess around with ammo. I have a slug gun that hates Hornandy SSTs with a passion slings them all over the place tumbling you name it. I put cheapy federal sabots in it and it's like a tack driver. And I went through quite a few kinds to figure it out. I know not everyone wants to do that but usually that's what it is.
Mosins in what I've experienced are ok plinkers but in high caliber it's like my SKS they were designed to be super cheap and send rounds downrange. I know people in Alaska use them all the time for hunting but I dont know what the success rate is for shots fired. I seen a guy here at the range that had an SKS trying to sight it in for deer season. And however I dont know everyone's predicament and what money they have maybe that's all he had to feed his family. I'll give him the benefit of the doubt, however if you were buying a gun to feed your family and to make an ethical kill on an animal and at the time I seen this SKSs were let's say 400 bucks. I do believe that there were better guns including cheap combos skope and rifle that could have been bought at the time that would do both of those jobs better. IMHO there are fun guns, and there are hunting guns. If someone is in a financial predicament and you need to feed your family you buy a hunting gun not a fun gun. I own a SKS they are fun to blow up pumpkins and watermelons with....but it's a lead slinger and not to be confused with a accurate rifle.
Very beautiful, my wife has lost her red hair, was also strawberry blond from her health issues. But I always loved her red hair and always fought against the bigoted comments she would get from people. Love it and hope you guys have a wonderful day.
I guess I got in early on the SKS... $130 and it came with 100 rounds of ammo, oil bottle, manual and some other stuff. A 1,000 round case cost about $90-100 at the time depending on the type... My buddy and I each got one and they shot quite well... We put rubber butt extensions on them as they were too short for us without them.The mosin was a trial thing. I did expect better from it. It was a very cheap gun.
As far as an sks goes, the one I have was right before they eclipsed the $200.00 mark. Unissued, and Romanian made. It's quite a nice rifle. Pretty good shooter till the barrel gets hot, then it starts climbing. Which really is pretty typical of a rifle with a hot barrel. I'd take it hunting if we were allowed. Guess I could use it for coyote, but I have a sweet 223 wyld set up for that.
I agree with the first part, and while the second part may be true for certain models, it's not true for all of them, especially in my BIL's hands . He leaves the 700BDL and the AK at home most times and grabs one of the SKS's. Couple yrs ago he got to the public land parking, got out and removed the SKS from it's case, loaded it up and when he turned around he saw a deer on the run at 75yrds, dropped it and went to put the gun back in his truck and there was another at 50yrds, shot it, then put the gun away .
He has some funny stories to tell, and since I've been there for many, I don't doubt them for a min. One day we were in his back yard sighting in something, and we started to walk to the target, about 40yrds away he says. "look, a hummingbird", and points at it. That hummingbird flew straight at his finger and hovered about a ft from it, funny stuff. He's also found a ton of arrowheads, I've never found one, but I've found a good number of broadheads .
Oh, cut some firewood .
Speaking of shooting, this one was a bit of a tight shot . But the jred 2166 combined with the Japanese falling tool, didn't have a problem with it.
If you look close you can see the ratchet strap pulling the maple to the side, she said it didn't matter if I took it out, but it was a nice maple so I tried to save it.
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Nice notch, but leaky .
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Little help to get it down.
Just missed the little maple .
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All diced up and ready for my buddy to come get it.
There was also a couple nice ash trees I bucked up, which will be ready this yr if he gets them popped open right away.
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Hope everyone has a great weekend.
The mosin was a trial thing. I did expect better from it. It was a very cheap gun.
As far as an sks goes, the one I have was right before they eclipsed the $200.00 mark. Unissued, and Romanian made. It's quite a nice rifle. Pretty good shooter till the barrel gets hot, then it starts climbing. Which really is pretty typical of a rifle with a hot barrel. I'd take it hunting if we were allowed. Guess I could use it for coyote, but I have a sweet 223 wyld set up for that.
Edit. Guess I should add that mosin was never a primary hunting rifle. Nor did I intend it too.
It for sure depends on where they were made for sure since there were so many countries that made them by and large the Russian made ones were of the best quality the others are varying from there the one I have is a yugo with a grenade launcher and is a complete joke and was also the same style I seen the guy using. Sean I get exactly what you mean it's nice to play around with stuff and go from there. I moved into using black powder awhile ago for the challenge I'd one day like to do recurve bow hunting for the added challenge.I guess I got in early on the SKS... $130 and it came with 100 rounds of ammo, oil bottle, manual and some other stuff. A 1,000 round case cost about $90-100 at the time depending on the type... My buddy and I each got one and they shot quite well... We put rubber butt extensions on them as they were too short for us without them.
Yup that's about the time I got mine in the 90's. I changed the stock so it fits me better. Still have lots of ammo for it. Shoots well and now I have a night scope and laser sight for coyotes if they get close to the chicken coops. I had a possum on the coop the other night . I took it out with my rugger 10/22, it was closer and the SKS would have been overkillI guess I got in early on the SKS... $130 and it came with 100 rounds of ammo, oil bottle, manual and some other stuff. A 1,000 round case cost about $90-100 at the time depending on the type... My buddy and I each got one and they shot quite well... We put rubber butt extensions on them as they were too short for us without them.
I got mine in the mid-late '80s. The AP ammo didn't punch holes through a V-8 engine but they did punch holes through a Volvo... people used to dump things in the quarry where we shot in those days.Yup that's about the time I got mine in the 90's. I changed the stock so it fits me better. Still have lots of ammo for it. Shoots well and now I have a night scope and laser sight for coyotes if they get close to the chicken coops. I had a possum on the coop the other night . I took it out with my rugger 10/22, it was closer and the SKS would have been overkill
6013 isn't a bad rod, I use them at home. Whether 6013 or 6011, the 60 is for 60,000lbs tensile strength. A 1/8 7018 would be a better choice for 10,000lbs additional tensile strength. Grind the area to be welded down to clean metal and really clean between passes. Just run stringer beads, no big weaves.I was splitting yesterday and had a nasty piece that I should have cut up and left for an overnighter. But I tried splitting it and my push plate mount weld broke. I have a Lincoln 225 ac welder and I plan to try to fix it. I normally use 6013 1/8 rod but the mount is so thick I don't think it would penetrate well enough so I am thinking 6011 5/32 . The plan is to add 3/16 2" flat stock to reinforce it as well. My welding knowledge isn't the best so any advice on this repair would be great
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Did mine the other day. Was pleased with what I found. Very thin layer of dry dusty stuff barely hanging on. Brushed off with one quick pass. Hardly worth climbing up there but at least I know I'm good!!Cleaned the chimney this year, it's been 2 years. Thank goodness I did because I got almost a third of a cup out of it! Probably would have blown that chimney clean off the house! Lol
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Stick with the 1/8" rods. Vee groove out both sides as best you can and run multi passes. Wouldn't be a bad idea to preheat the steel as well. Clean, clean, clean, clean in between passes. 7018 would be the best bet as mentioned before.I was splitting yesterday and had a nasty piece that I should have cut up and left for an overnighter. But I tried splitting it and my push plate mount weld broke. I have a Lincoln 225 ac welder and I plan to try to fix it. I normally use 6013 1/8 rod but the mount is so thick I don't think it would penetrate well enough so I am thinking 6011 5/32 . The plan is to add 3/16 2" flat stock to reinforce it as well. My welding knowledge isn't the best so any advice on this repair would be great
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It's hard for me to see but it looks like that weld was too hot to begin with. Where it broke it almost looks to me like its severe undercut at the back there the weld looks sunken. Either it was too many amps or to slow a travel speed. As others have said have to get all the rust off grind out the break real good and make sure where your putting your ground its ground up and clean so you get a good ground. It will tell you on the box of rod what range of amps that rod runs at, on most machines. If you want to use 7018 make sure you get 7018 AC rod since you have an AC machine. You can spray antispatter down if your concerned about the BBs. Also make sure when you weld it it's not on some big hunk of steel like the splitter or anything that can act like a big heat sync. You dont want it cooling off too rapidly and cracking your welds. I'm assuming when you say your adding flat stock you mean your adding gussets on the outside edge that will add allot of strength buy itself.I was splitting yesterday and had a nasty piece that I should have cut up and left for an overnighter. But I tried splitting it and my push plate mount weld broke. I have a Lincoln 225 ac welder and I plan to try to fix it. I normally use 6013 1/8 rod but the mount is so thick I don't think it would penetrate well enough so I am thinking 6011 5/32 . The plan is to add 3/16 2" flat stock to reinforce it as well. My welding knowledge isn't the best so any advice on this repair would be great
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