Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[chipper1]

Reminds me of a wedding hosted at my parents house… watched my uncle get on a Yamaha 100 in his suit and take off through our large side yard. That part went well… it was at the end of the yard where it went bad. Somehow he managed to go over the handlebars and roll across the yard. That happened about 50 years ago but I can see it like it was today.

That's funny.
I saw a similar thing happen. The guy hopped on a Honda 500XR that was for sale on the side of the rd, he was all dressed up to go out on a date, fired it right up and ran it thru a few gears, got to the end of the field, which was a bit muddy, then he hit the back brakes, they didn't work, so he hits the front brakes and lays the bike down into a short stand of sumac .
It's easier to laugh about it today .

 

[MAAC]

Thought maybe you guy's that scrounge wood, might share some of your scrounging methods with the seemingly growing crowd of newbie wood burners. From what I have been reading, they would be quite appreciative to hear how you score, and where you score. There is a lot of useful and interesting information scattered throughout the firewood forum. I thought it might be nice to share some of your experiences in one thread, for those who are just starting out and maybe those who are struggling a bit. Thanks to anyone who cares to share.

Haul a load of brush to your local landfill.. Then while you are there ask them if you can have a bunch of the wood laying around everywhere for a "project" at home.

 

[chipper1]

Haul a load of brush to your local landfill.. Then while you are there ask them if you can have a bunch of the wood laying around everywhere for a "project" at home.

Great idea.
Welcome to the scrounge thread MAAC

 

[biggerstaff94]

Especially in Cottonwood I'd imagine

Yup. I made a couple cuts on some average size mulberry with it, but hadn’t run it at any length until yesterday.

Hero wood .

It works great for that .
Where you at down there. The inlaws are in Ft Wayne, Defiance, West Unity, Edgerton, I get down there often.

Ligonier/Cromwell area. Directly west of Edgerton.

Haul a load of brush to your local landfill.. Then while you are there ask them if you can have a bunch of the wood laying around everywhere for a "project" at home.

We have an unmanned compost site. Free to dump, free to take. The town brings in a giant friggin recycler once a month to grind everything left into mulch.

 

[chipper1]

Ligonier/Cromwell area. Directly west of Edgerton.

I know that area well. I ran steel out of Heidtman Steel back in the mid 90's, I actually hauled rebar in there before the plants were built too. I've ran a lot of loads into Howe IN too(also steel).
I remember one time back in 93 or 94 coming up on 5 thru Shipshewana, on whatever day the auction is open, 2hrs in traffic out in the middle of nowhere . Needless to say I stayed clear of Shipshe after that lol. It's a beautiful area, some real nice lakes and hills, and good people too.

 

[husqvarna257]

6013 isn't a bad rod, I use them at home. Whether 6013 or 6011, the 60 is for 60,000lbs tensile strength. A 1/8 7018 would be a better choice for 10,000lbs additional tensile strength. Grind the area to be welded down to clean metal and really clean between passes. Just run stringer beads, no big weaves.

Thanks for the sugestion. Went to the local hardware store and got 1/8 7018. I try the stringer bead

Stick with the 1/8" rods. Vee groove out both sides as best you can and run multi passes. Wouldn't be a bad idea to preheat the steel as well. Clean, clean, clean, clean in between passes. 7018 would be the best bet as mentioned before.

I thought of heating the bracket due to it's size. A few minutes with a map gas torch. vee groves sound like a good idea. Going to find some scrap to practice weld on. Haven't welded in a long time.

It's hard for me to see but it looks like that weld was too hot to begin with. Where it broke it almost looks to me like its severe undercut at the back there the weld looks sunken. Either it was too many amps or to slow a travel speed. As others have said have to get all the rust off grind out the break real good and make sure where your putting your ground its ground up and clean so you get a good ground. It will tell you on the box of rod what range of amps that rod runs at, on most machines. If you want to use 7018 make sure you get 7018 AC rod since you have an AC machine. You can spray antispatter down if your concerned about the BBs. Also make sure when you weld it it's not on some big hunk of steel like the splitter or anything that can act like a big heat sync. You dont want it cooling off too rapidly and cracking your welds. I'm assuming when you say your adding flat stock you mean your adding gussets on the outside edge that will add allot of strength buy itself.

Yea the flat stock is for gussets, Should help spread the load out.

 

[JimR]

Yeah poor barrels are a known issue with them, haven't found any dealers that would let you slug a barrel till you found one that was actually in spec. .313 is pretty far out of spec.

What is really nice is getting your hands on a Finn M28/30 with a .3085 bore. Those you load with .308 bullet heads. These rifles are accurate.

 

[JimR]

Are you just effectively shortening the rifling with the reamer to stop the worn rifling from affecting the bullet spin?

It was to remove the worn rifling which was causing the bullet to flop around coming out of the end of the barrel.

 

[JustJeff]

Thanks for the sugestion. Went to the local hardware store and got 1/8 7018. I try the stringer bead


I thought of heating the bracket due to it's size. A few minutes with a map gas torch. vee groves sound like a good idea. Going to find some scrap to practice weld on. Haven't welded in a long time.

Yea the flat stock is for gussets, Should help spread the load out.

Anything under 1" thick won't require a preheat unless it's cold out. 50°f or warmer and you're golden.

 

[JustJeff]

Picked our apples today. These are the good eaters, have just as many pie apples (ones with spots or a hole etc). Also managed to stack what I split yesterday.

 

[JustJeff]

7018 is a low hydrogen electrode. It's the dissolved hydrogen that bubbles in the weld pool that start cracks. This is a direct result of moisture. Rods need to be baked at 250°f and kept warm and dry. So don't keep em on your shelf in an unheated garage. Get a sealed container to keep them in and bake them for a while before using them.

 

[tfp]

Picked our apples today. These are the good eaters, have just as many pie apples (ones with spots or a hole etc). Also managed to stack what I split yesterday.

Damn Jeff that's a good haul of apples, they look great. Got any pics of the trees full of them?

 

[North by Northwest]

Hero wood .

It works great for that .
Where you at down there. The inlaws are in Ft Wayne, Defiance, West Unity, Edgerton, I get down there often.

 

[North by Northwest]

7018 is a low hydrogen electrode. It's the dissolved hydrogen that bubbles in the weld pool that start cracks. This is a direct result of moisture. Rods need to be baked at 250°f and kept warm and dry. So don't keep em on your shelf in an unheated garage. Get a sealed container to keep them in and bake them for a while before using them.

You can also purchase MSS 7018-MR ( moisture resistant) rod , which are non hydroscopic flux . I however use a heating oven because I am too lazy to go and buy another specialty flux rod .

 

[JustJeff]

They are dwarf trees but are looking pretty woolly because I suck at pruning and haven't done any in a couple years

 

[North by Northwest]

Thanks for the sugestion. Went to the local hardware store and got 1/8 7018. I try the stringer bead


I thought of heating the bracket due to it's size. A few minutes with a map gas torch. vee groves sound like a good idea. Going to find some scrap to practice weld on. Haven't welded in a long time.

Yea the flat stock is for gussets, Should help spread the load out.

If , your steel is older or dirty or corroded , 6010 / 6011 or 6012 is best for the root pass's & then either 6013 or 7018 for the supplemental caps . This will ensure good initial penetration & reduced porosity & slag inclusion along with a more polished & smooth final surface weld brother

 

[Philbert]

We can bring, but we can’t take. Concerns with EAB, and likely, people getting hurt.

Sometimes thought a guy could hang out there and watch for good loads as they entered, and try to work out a deal before the wood is technically ‘dumped’.

Philbert

 

[H-Ranch]

Got out to clean up a few pieces in the yard, then piled a bunch of miscellaneous chunks on the top of the stacks. They have definitely settled as they have dried because it seemed about the same reach as when I originally stacked the top row.

 

[GrizG]

They are dwarf trees but are looking pretty woolly because I suck at pruning and haven't done any in a couple years

Kind of amusing to read that on an arborist site.

 

[sean donato]

We can bring, but we can’t take. Concerns with EAB, and likely, people getting hurt.

Sometimes thought a guy could hang out there and watch for good loads as they entered, and try to work out a deal before the wood is technically ‘dumped’.

Philbert

Got a green dump site not in my township, but next to my friends farm. Few of the local tree guys dump chips and wood off there. I had my friend inquire about us going up there and taking the rounds/logs. Basically was told absolutely not, once there they are township property. They bring a big tub grinder in and turn it into compost, which they turn around and sell to township residents. Can't say anymore without getting political.