Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[mountainguyed67]

That's a big boy there, but as you said, it's probably more appropriate for your machine size.

I’ve been breaking 1/2” cables pulling on stumps, I’m considering going to 3/4” cable. That snatch block can handle that and bigger. I just use a length of cable, I don’t have a winch on the loader. I don’t risk my 8-10 thousand lb winches, not when I have a loader to use.

 

[sean donato]

I’ve been breaking 1/2” cables pulling on stumps, I’m considering going to 3/4” cable. That snatch block can handle that and bigger. I just use a length of cable, I don’t have a winch on the loader. I don’t risk my 8-10 thousand lb winch, not when I have a loader to use.

That's because 1/2" cable isn't rated for that kind of pull. Your way over it's working load limit. We have a 2.5" winch cable that reliable pulls 17 tons hundreds of times a day. Your way under rated for your size of loader with 1/2" cable.
This chart is for standard 6x19 wire rope. There are different types of wire rope, but 6x19 is pretty standard.

 

[mountainguyed67]

That's because 1/2" cable isn't rated for that kind of pull.

It would depend on size of stump being pulled. I’m well aware that a 1/2” cable can’t transfer the force the loader can create. In the Army, equipment that size would have an inch or bigger cable. The problem is I’m not dragging that cable up a hill through brush and branches, I’d need a smaller cable and snatch block to get it there.

 

[mountainguyed67]

I also don’t know how to calculate how much force it’ll take to pull a stump out, its trial and error. I don’t want to end up pulling the counterweight off the back of the loader.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

I also don’t know how to calculate how much force it’ll take to pull a stump out, its trial and error. I don’t want to end up pulling the counterweight off the back of the loader.

I would think you'd be pretty hard pressed to rip that counterweight off! You'll probably loose traction long before that would happen.

 

[mountainguyed67]

I would think you'd be pretty hard pressed to rip that counterweight off! You'll probably loose traction long before that would happen.

Good point.

Here you can see the counterweight, that’s what the tow pin goes through.



The counterweight is actually more than one piece.

 

[Bill G]

Hi guys. Picked up this sporterized Nagant today for 200 clams. We had a bunch of ammo for this caliber laying around so the gun will literally pay for itself as we use it. Boy, I can remember back in the day when these guns were listed for $69 new in box

View attachment 1022561

If that is a 7.62x54 it is loud as hell

 

[Squareground3691]

My cut'n partner and I started to brake in our new primary's today!
He went with a 585.
I went with a 661C with a WCS barkbox
We'll port them soon, and I've got a max flow intake on the way.

View attachment 1024515View attachment 1024516View attachment 1024518

Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!

Good looking saw , and doggie to ,

 

[Vtrombly]

I've seen some scary stuff with cables, but man do I like using the winch cable over rope when I can, much easier to gauge exactly how much pull I have on a tree.
That's a big boy there, but as you said, it's probably more appropriate for your machine size.

We used to take those cheap moving blankets from harbor freight and soak them in water and drape them over the cable if it snaps it will soak up allot of the energy.

 

[Logger nate]

What size cable and chain?

Think it was 1/2” cable and 3/8 or 5/16” chain, I don’t remember for sure.

 

[sean donato]

Good point.

Here you can see the counterweight, that’s what the tow pin goes through.

View attachment 1024546

The counterweight is actually more than one piece.
View attachment 1024549
View attachment 1024550
View attachment 1024551

Your in at around a 30-33klb machine the limiting factor will be if the machine has the power to pull and traction. I'd assume you'll loose traction before power to pull, but I'm not familiar with this machine. Even for an older one it's pretty little compared to the stuff I worked on at the machine shop.
I would think the 3/4" would be adequate and a 1' would give more of a proper safty margin.

 

[djg james]

With any luck, I should be starting to weld on my trailer next week. I'm not a welder and only took one course at an area college. I've only got my Dad's Lincoln 220v AC tombstone welder. I want to start on welding some 1/8" thick flat stock to 1/8" thick angle. I'm guessing it can be done because it was done before MIG welders came out. I believe I have 6010s and 7018 rods around, but I don't know the diameter off-hand.
Tothose of you who still stick weld, what rod/diameter would you use on this mild steel?

I remember my Dad trying to weld on this trailer and he would burn through at points. It seems this welder is not real good at settings below 50-60? amps. But then again, it could just be the user.

The alternative would be to buy a cheap HF 120v MIG welder (my current budget).

Thanks

 

[sean donato]

Make sure you have ac rods.

 

[LondonNeil]

Damn it! Family life, rushing and saws don't mix....I hate trying to fit a bit of cutting in late afternoon for this reason

Okay, Makita 4300 (dolmar 410 I believe). First use in a couple of months but was run dry and winterised (run with choke once out of fuel/pulled over a dozen times to get the carb dry too). Filled with fresh mix. Stats right up but stalls as I pull the trigger. Repeat 3 or 6 times.... Hmm. Blocked high jet in thinking. Had once before with a different saw and managed to get it to clear itself pretty quickly so . ... Start and let it idle to warm a little, pull trigger gently and after a few goes I get it to pick up, although not quite right. Try a few cuts, still not right after 3 or so, so when it stalls I think it's time to get it apart before I do damage.

Ok, air filter clean enough, pull carb off, remove diaphragm and the cap the other side, all looks clean and saw is only a year old so diaphragm in good condition. Not sure if I'm going to need to do more or not.... Before I can try the saw again how the **** do I get this hose back where it should be!?!!! In disconnecting it from the carb I accidently pulled and disconnected it from the other end. Is that the impulse line? Whatever. How the hell do I get to it and where it should connect? Please tell me I don't need to completely dismantle the saw.... But I can't even see where it should be connected and fear I'm going to have to take the jug off to access!


So.....3 problems, 1. What was my original fault? 2 if it's the carb, how do I fix it? 3. How to reconnect the hose?

I put the saw back together to keep the bits in one place and put it away before the light went.... Now I'm sulking.

Photos of the hose, where it connects on the Zama carb and where I could see the other end.



I'm peeved as I take such care not to leave fuel in it and to use e free.....********!

 

[svk]

If that is a 7.62x54 it is loud as hell

I’m sure it would be without ear plugs!

 

[Bill G]

I’m sure it would be without ear plugs!

My son wanted one of those when he was about 12 so I bought one. They are load as hell and kick like a mule,

 

[sean donato]

Damn it! Family life, rushing and saws don't mix....I hate trying to fit a bit of cutting in late afternoon for this reason

Okay, Makita 4300 (dolmar 410 I believe). First use in a couple of months but was run dry and winterised (run with choke once out of fuel/pulled over a dozen times to get the carb dry too). Filled with fresh mix. Stats right up but stalls as I pull the trigger. Repeat 3 or 6 times.... Hmm. Blocked high jet in thinking. Had once before with a different saw and managed to get it to clear itself pretty quickly so . ... Start and let it idle to warm a little, pull trigger gently and after a few goes I get it to pick up, although not quite right. Try a few cuts, still not right after 3 or so, so when it stalls I think it's time to get it apart before I do damage.

Ok, air filter clean enough, pull carb off, remove diaphragm and the cap the other side, all looks clean and saw is only a year old so diaphragm in good condition. Not sure if I'm going to need to do more or not.... Before I can try the saw again how the **** do I get this hose back where it should be!?!!! In disconnecting it from the carb I accidently pulled and disconnected it from the other end. Is that the impulse line? Whatever. How the hell do I get to it and where it should connect? Please tell me I don't need to completely dismantle the saw.... But I can't even see where it should be connected and fear I'm going to have to take the jug off to access!


So.....3 problems, 1. What was my original fault? 2 if it's the carb, how do I fix it? 3. How to reconnect the hose?

I put the saw back together to keep the bits in one place and put it away before the light went.... Now I'm sulking.

Photos of the hose, where it connects on the Zama carb and where I could see the other end.

View attachment 1024627View attachment 1024628View attachment 1024629

I'm peeved as I take such care not to leave fuel in it and to use e free.....********!

Pair of thos locking skinny plier like drs use. I have a pile of them. Hemostat or something like that. Normally you can get the lines back on with a pair.
Not poking fun at your predicament, but we often times get hung up with the simple things. Did you check over the fuel line and clunk? That 026 my dad had ran just about the same and turned out to have a crack in the fuel supply line.

 

[Bill G]

With any luck, I should be starting to weld on my trailer next week. I'm not a welder and only took one course at an area college. I've only got my Dad's Lincoln 220v AC tombstone welder. I want to start on welding some 1/8" thick flat stock to 1/8" thick angle. I'm guessing it can be done because it was done before MIG welders came out. I believe I have 6010s and 7018 rods around, but I don't know the diameter off-hand.
Tothose of you who still stick weld, what rod/diameter would you use on this mild steel?

I remember my Dad trying to weld on this trailer and he would burn through at points. It seems this welder is not real good at settings below 50-60? amps. But then again, it could just be the user.

The alternative would be to buy a cheap HF 120v MIG welder (my current budget).

Thanks

Use 1/8 rod. If the steel is dirty I would use 6011 but others will disagree

 

[LondonNeil]

cheers, i might have to get some of those forcep things! looks like i need to strip the plastics off...and its stilla fiddle.

fuel linke and filter, no i didn't. since saw is only 16sih momths old lines should be good....hence i thought gummed jet first. I need to get some carb cleaner and get the high screw out then squirt.
seems i also need a gauze for the pump side....it may have been lost by me but tbh, i think it was missing.....the well was full of fuel when i looked but no gauze.

 

[djg james]

Use 1/8 rod. If the steel is dirty I would use 6011 but others will disagree

Thanks, 6010? I will grind a clean surface before starting.