But is it lightweight.
I like the GB I have, and older frostbite, but it's anything but light.
Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)
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I like the GB I have, and older frostbite, but it's anything but light.
I kn
Thanks for the info. I'll check them out.
I didnt see the 24" lightweight listed in a .058. They make a .050.
I'm looking for a lightweight bar. Not too concerned about bend or wear life of it. I just want to lighten up my 372xp a little bit. All my spare chains are new factory grind. My present bar is not worn out.
Great deal on a couple chains and a standard bar.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1342309291...macYiwCXGM0p3A%3D%3D|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2047675In Canada, but ships to US from what I see on my end.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1636481694...S4gD5m5q9AcILSvqmU9aruLag=|tkp:Bk9SR8Ca39aHYQ
That showed up as the 28, here's the 24.
https://www.amazon.com/Tsmura-Bar-L...ocphy=9003417&hvtargid=pla-1224935640436&th=1
Tsumura Light bars are high quality bars have a few of them .
I see plenty of deals on the stock bar and 2 chains here in the US. I couldn't find a listing on the Tsumara in .058. Now I know that they make it. That one here lists for $109 free shipping here. I'll just have to find one. I'm in no hurry right now. I have some bigger Ash to drop once the ground freezes. I'm dropping them on my lawn. I don't want to rip it up with my tractor removing them.
Unfortunately supplies are pretty limited now with suppliers waiting in manufacturers to get the materials to actually make the bars .
Me too, Like them a lot.
The stihl lightweight bars are very nice, but
.I also like to use the standard 20 and 24" "e" bars as they are way cheaper and nice and light in the tip, but no .058 for this specific application.
If it were me, I wouldn't wait! Edit, but you could always use the standard weight bar.
The link for the one on amazon is one of about 10 I saw listed in the states and the lowest price, not that that's all that matters to me
.
WoodAbuser
aka WoodchuckAbuser
I have 3 Tsumara bars. I love them and wish I had more. They have been very hard to get over the last couple years. I was able to get 2 before they got scarce and one used but almost like new from a member on another forum.
I have 2 Sugi Lightweight bars, one in 20" .050 and one in 28" .063.
They are very tough. However, the 20" bar is very light for a 20" bar, but the 28" bar is not even close to as light as the Stihl lightweight bars of that length.
I used to love the Stihl 24" E bars as they were light, tough and inexpensive (and the 24" had the yellow [wider] tip). However, they are no longer made. I do have 2 of them.
They are very tough. However, the 20" bar is very light for a 20" bar, but the 28" bar is not even close to as light as the Stihl lightweight bars of that length.
I used to love the Stihl 24" E bars as they were light, tough and inexpensive (and the 24" had the yellow [wider] tip). However, they are no longer made. I do have 2 of them.
Tips for wood millers:
When you mill wide pieces of wood like I did for the table and bench I made for my daughter, the boards want to cup along the centerline as they dry. The bench is one piece wide, the table is two pieces wide.
To make the finished product flat, I use the circular saw to cut 3/4 of the way through the board (along the centerline), then I glue it, clamp it (to make it flat) and screw it (to keep it in place). It is a lot of work, but it works, and you can't see it on the top surface, which retains the look of a continuous piece of wood. The deck screws are about 4" apart in opposite directions.
I use Loctite PL Premium for the glue, countersink the 2" deck screws in both directions using drill bits (I don't have the special tool for doing this) and use 4' Husky clamps from HD to make things straight.
You would have to do a tremendous amount of planning if you do not do this, and your boards would no longer be uniform thickness.
When you mill wide pieces of wood like I did for the table and bench I made for my daughter, the boards want to cup along the centerline as they dry. The bench is one piece wide, the table is two pieces wide.
To make the finished product flat, I use the circular saw to cut 3/4 of the way through the board (along the centerline), then I glue it, clamp it (to make it flat) and screw it (to keep it in place). It is a lot of work, but it works, and you can't see it on the top surface, which retains the look of a continuous piece of wood. The deck screws are about 4" apart in opposite directions.
I use Loctite PL Premium for the glue, countersink the 2" deck screws in both directions using drill bits (I don't have the special tool for doing this) and use 4' Husky clamps from HD to make things straight.
You would have to do a tremendous amount of planning if you do not do this, and your boards would no longer be uniform thickness.
Sawyer Rob
Addicted to ArboristSite
It's my understanding that Sugi makes the lightweight bars for Husqvarna, so maybe you have had one? lol.
SR
Sawyer Rob
Addicted to ArboristSite
OR, you could select boards from a different place in the tree and DRY THEM PROPERLY, and you won't have the problem in the first place. lol
SR
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I'm sure there are a lot of factors including the type of wood, the width of the wood, and the width of the log.
I mostly work with Oak and try to make my boards as wide as possible. They are dried outside for two years (I don't have enough inside space to do it) and are properly stacked and stickered. I'm sure if I ripped the boards along the center (making narrower boards) this would not be a problem, but it is not what I choose to do. When I ripped boards in half to make two sides for my gun cabinets both sides remain flat. (Making a 24" wide board into two 12" wide boards).
The boards will be flat in the stack, but when you pull them out to use them, they will cup. My method of flattening them has worked well. If I mill "half round" pieces for benches, I do not have this problem, but wider boards closer to the center always do.
I love the way my daughter's bench looks. It is about 2' wide, one piece, with live edge on both sides. The bottom may not look pretty, but no one sees it, and the top is gorgeous!
Sierra_rider
Piss revver
It snowed another few inches overnight, I guess I'm not climbing trees today.
Sawyer Rob
Addicted to ArboristSite
When I said "properly dry them", that includes stickering them "inside" for a time too, not just bring them in and let them cup as they lose even more moisture. That's a very important step.
I'm a retired custom furniture/cabinet maker that used a LOT of air-dried lumber, it didn't take long to learn how to properly handle lumber, if you want it to stay flat when used inside.
Wood never stops moving, no matter what you do to try and stop it, but there are ways to minimize its movement.
SR
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