This is for you guys that need a "new technique" for your wood cutting skills.
SR
Getting some ideas for the big one out back .
I'm wondering if that's still called a Dutchman in Indonesia .
This is for you guys that need a "new technique" for your wood cutting skills.
SR
Won't be 250 no more.thanks, I'll look into that. I know I used to be able to get 562xp cases for $200.00 to the door, and bearings alone cost all but that. $250.00 seems good for a complete case. First 572xp I've had to do any major work to. Last one was a 576xp and it wasn't worth fixing till he was done running it over with the skidder.
This is for you guys that need a "new technique" for your wood cutting skills.
SR
He's removing smaller portions to keep the saw cutting straight in the root flare, it's a real problem with a dull saw in very hard wood. They use a similar technique when cutting lumber, it's pretty cool to watch, especially when they are barefoot and smoking lol.I like how he "saws" with the chainsaw!
In town or rural?You are getting ripped off too!
I have a building that doesn't use much electricity in the winter, the TOTAL monthly bill is $13.00 a month (sometimes even less) for those months...
SR
The rural cooperatives more or less bend everyone over.No doubt I'm getting screwed.
Propane cost has gone through the roof too. My uncle fill tanks as a side gig at his shop. He used to charge customer $12.00 for a grill sized tank. Now it's $26.00. Even for me at his cost is $15.00. Just ridiculous. We keep talking about getting gas or electric heat in the house, as the furnace needs filled every 10 ish hours over winter. The cost of a new system is just more then we are comfortable spending right now for gas or electric. Heck I can get a nice used oil furnace for supplemental heat for cheap, but the oil cost an arm and a leg. What do you do?The rural cooperatives more or less bend everyone over.
What galls me the most is the monthly e-newsletter we get from their CFO telling us how great of a job they are doing.
When we first installed our dual fuel rate electric boiler, electrical heat was comparable to .65 cent per gallon propane. Now I think it is more like $2.00 a gallon propane.
No the instructions said to not remove the coating . And that the pads will seat I also used the recommended pads the copper free low dust verityIs that black paint supposed to be left on, doesn't it clog the pads?
The local big supply propane company charges $10 to refill a 20pound grill tank . He pretty much fills all tanks at all the commercial places that sell propane in my areaPropane cost has gone through the roof too. My uncle fill tanks as a side gig at his shop. He used to charge customer $12.00 for a grill sized tank. Now it's $26.00. Even for me at his cost is $15.00. Just ridiculous. We keep talking about getting gas or electric heat in the house, as the furnace needs filled every 10 ish hours over winter. The cost of a new system is just more then we are comfortable spending right now for gas or electric. Heck I can get a nice used oil furnace for supplemental heat for cheap, but the oil cost an arm and a leg. What do you do?
I didn't read those...No the instructions said to not remove the coating . And that the pads will seat I also used the recommended pads the copper free low dust verity
Have you tried using muriatic acid to remove the iron particles?Curious how long it stays on.
I did the same ones on the back of the excursion, but I removed it on the matting surfaces (cant image it not wearing off right away). They work like they should, so that's nice. Unfortunately I've got all the dang metal pieces off the old ones on my wheel and cap and it's all rusting . I found another set of wheels off a 2006 4x4 that are the same(except two of the caps have the centers missing for the lockouts), just haven't made up my mind about spending the cash just yet.
The coating didnāt last long . I did the normal break in 20mph come to a stop drive again to let the rotors cool and apply the brakes again at 20mph did this a number of times and the mating surfaces were a nice satin raw steelCurious how long it stays on.
I did the same ones on the back of the excursion, but I removed it on the matting surfaces (cant image it not wearing off right away). They work like they should, so that's nice. Unfortunately I've got all the dang metal pieces off the old ones on my wheel and cap and it's all rusting . I found another set of wheels off a 2006 4x4 that are the same(except two of the caps have the centers missing for the lockouts), just haven't made up my mind about spending the cash just yet.
Thanks man.
That makes sense. Seems like it would plug the pores of the pads up.The coating didnāt last long . I did the normal break in 20mph come to a stop drive again to let the rotors cool and apply the brakes again at 20mph did this a number of times and the mating surfaces were a nice satin raw steel
Nope.Have you tried using muriatic acid to remove the iron particles?
That's proof it's not a balanced load lol.
Yea had to take off some and move to back lolThat's proof it not a balanced load lol.