Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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I understand, I got that way with my saws. Dad and I were cutting a massive white oak down beside my house and both of our old faithful's let me down and got me all flustered. Dads old 702 Echo that I can't remember ever having anything wrong with it lost the throttle rod when I was half way through the back cut. My grandpas 044 wouldn't start after that and was half running when we did get it going, not a good thing when you got a 38in DBH white oak half cut off next to your house.

Needless to say I broke down and bought me a brand new chainsaw a few months later for Christmas, first brand new piece of equipment I have ever bought. Now I know I have a saw that I can count on and I can go back to enjoying my old ones as I work on them and use them instead of relying on them and some 40 year old issue letting me down for the day.

My splitter got me close to that last year.... I chased run away issues as in the governor was not controlling it really at all so it was either screaming to get it to split or it would bog out., and I was having to run it half choke to get it to run, but it would also flood out under heavy load. Turns out the Chinesium carb they (PO) put on it had an egg shaped bore so even though the governor had the throttle completely shut it was still sucking enough air to make it run away with no load. This also disrupted the venturi on the idle circuit which is why I was having to choke it at no load but when I was splitting big stuff it would flood as the throttle would open and the main would take up and........ yea. I threw that away and got an OE one to rebuild and have not had any more trouble.

Even if the adapter would not work directly on the generator engine, I would have no trouble setting it up to run the pump with a belt, I know you can get tapered pulleys, could even do a double belt if you're feeling fancy.
Like the pulley idea!!
 
Are there any 4 cylinder Wisconsin engine fans on here. I have a 30hp Vh4d serial 5088621. I'm trying to figure out what year it was built. I have searched the net but only found that the 3rd and 4th digit determine the year. I'm wondering if it is possible that this motor is a 1988? The article also stated that early years only use the 3rd number. How do they put it in a certain decade. Is it by the 1st number? The reason I need a year is because they used 2 different oil filter types in these. TIA
 
Nice deal, gotta love that :clap:.
I could have bought a decent pin on rock bucket not long ago for 200, and I have a SSQD plate I could have used. I wasn't quite ready for it and don't need a crapton of stuff laying around, already have a bunch :yes:.
I haven't really priced bolt on edges out, but I need to get it done sooner rather than later. The edge and the lower portion of my bucket is all bent up(both the front and middle), those bolt on forks are convenient; but if you use them as much as I do and for heavy work, they will tear your bucket up bad.
The toothed bucket on my little tractor turned it into a digging machine, comparing it to the flat edge one that was on my previous little tractor(same size). It will out dig my bigger tractor if there are a bunch of smaller rocks, as the standard edge just rolls over them. It's what I grab if I need to move a rock pile I can't get under with the larger bucket/tractor, it's hard to believe the difference without experiencing it myself.
As Sean was talking about, I need to remove the old welded on edge(or put a filler plate on the back side of the edge to take up the gap. I've probably worn 3" off the one on it now, guess I've gotten some good use out of it!
That is some serious bucket wear. I hope you can get that all squared away without too much trouble. I have a quick hitch setup for my bucket. Over the years I have accumulated the 6' rock bucket, a stump/root/rock grapple bucket, a hydraulic stump/tree puller and a set of 5000 pound fork attachment. The only one bought brand new was the fork attachment. All the used equipment came from. FB Marketplace and CL
 
Nice deal, gotta love that :clap:.
I could have bought a decent pin on rock bucket not long ago for 200, and I have a SSQD plate I could have used. I wasn't quite ready for it and don't need a crapton of stuff laying around, already have a bunch :yes:.
I haven't really priced bolt on edges out, but I need to get it done sooner rather than later. The edge and the lower portion of my bucket is all bent up(both the front and middle), those bolt on forks are convenient; but if you use them as much as I do and for heavy work, they will tear your bucket up bad.
The toothed bucket on my little tractor turned it into a digging machine, comparing it to the flat edge one that was on my previous little tractor(same size). It will out dig my bigger tractor if there are a bunch of smaller rocks, as the standard edge just rolls over them. It's what I grab if I need to move a rock pile I can't get under with the larger bucket/tractor, it's hard to believe the difference without experiencing it myself.
As Sean was talking about, I need to remove the old welded on edge(or put a filler plate on the back side of the edge to take up the gap. I've probably worn 3" off the one on it now, guess I've gotten some good use out of it!
Mine is bent in the middle too, bolt on tooth bar, (the kind that goes over the cut edge and bolts to the side of the bucket.) little tractor, big rock. I did get the rock out. Bent the middle of the bucket in the process. Wasn't happy about it, when I noticed.
I'd really advocate to swap out to an ssqa and get forks if you have the time and money. It's the one thing I'm glad I spent the money on when we built the loader. I was lucky enough to pick up a light set of 4 foot forks for free, just had to make the plate to hang them. Makes a lot of difference in lift capacity and load center in smaller tractors.
 
View attachment 1204359
They make an adapter from tapered to straight.... In the U S of A.
Price is in Canuck bucks
Those are also on ebay for $35-50 US .
I was wondering how well they work.
I have a nice 13hp Kawasaki engine with a tapered shaft that came off a generator.
I'd like to adapt it and use it, if these adapters fit and work ok without breaking or falling off.
 
Are there any 4 cylinder Wisconsin engine fans on here. I have a 30hp Vh4d serial 5088621. I'm trying to figure out what year it was built. I have searched the net but only found that the 3rd and 4th digit determine the year. I'm wondering if it is possible that this motor is a 1988? The article also stated that early years only use the 3rd number. How do they put it in a certain decade. Is it by the 1st number? The reason I need a year is because they used 2 different oil filter types in these. TIA
Pretty sure Vince( @Vtrombly ) is familiar with them, but he's not on here often as his schedule is very busy. Maybe @Brufab can get in touch with him and ask him to hop on and help you.
 
Just thinking about those crank adaptors, depending in the game of the engine, may be just as cost effective to grab a normal crank off ebay and swap it. Did that a few times already with broken cranks. Definatly not that difficult on a single cylinder engine with a bit of mechanical aptitude.
 
That is some serious bucket wear. I hope you can get that all squared away without too much trouble. I have a quick hitch setup for my bucket. Over the years I have accumulated the 6' rock bucket, a stump/root/rock grapple bucket, a hydraulic stump/tree puller and a set of 5000 pound fork attachment. The only one bought brand new was the fork attachment. All the used equipment came from. FB Marketplace and CL
Yeah it is. I just looked at it closer and the left side is worn just past the plate it welds to, the right side I'll still need to grind a bit, but I can see the inside of the weld.
Shouldn't be the worse thing I've ever done in my life, but we'll see how it turns out lol.
It would be nice to have a dedicated set of forks, as I could lift a lot.more weight with the load closer to the pins. But, I can flick a log up higher with the bolt ons. I can reach a bit further with the bolt ons too, which is nice when loading the firepit, because it keeps the tractor and the hydraulics away from the fire/heat.
Mine is bent in the middle too, bolt on tooth bar, (the kind that goes over the cut edge and bolts to the side of the bucket.) little tractor, big rock. I did get the rock out. Bent the middle of the bucket in the process. Wasn't happy about it, when I noticed.
I'd really advocate to swap out to an ssqa and get forks if you have the time and money. It's the one thing I'm glad I spent the money on when we built the loader. I was lucky enough to pick up a light set of 4 foot forks for free, just had to make the plate to hang them. Makes a lot of difference in lift capacity and load center in smaller tractors.
That's sucks.
That's the kind I have on my smaller tractor, I'm very pleased with it.
I have the ssqa on my L3800, but the rock bucket didn't have it. I was saying I would have needed to add the plate to the bucket as it was pin style. It wasn't a bad price and sure would have been nice to have around, but sometimes I need to say no! That doesn't happen enough 😅.
I usually use the big tractor for moving any weight, the loader is way smoother and I'd rather keep beating on that one in order to keep the smaller one in better condition a bit longer.
 
Yeah it is. I just looked at it closer and the left side is worn just past the plate it welds to, the right side I'll still need to grind a bit, but I can see the inside of the weld.
Shouldn't be the worse thing I've ever done in my life, but we'll see how it turns out lol.
It would be nice to have a dedicated set of forks, as I could lift a lot.more weight with the load closer to the pins. But, I can flick a log up higher with the bolt ons. I can reach a bit further with the bolt ons too, which is nice when loading the firepit, because it keeps the tractor and the hydraulics away from the fire/heat.

That's sucks.
That's the kind I have on my smaller tractor, I'm very pleased with it.
I have the ssqa on my L3800, but the rock bucket didn't have it. I was saying I would have needed to add the plate to the bucket as it was pin style. It wasn't a bad price and sure would have been nice to have around, but sometimes I need to say no! That doesn't happen enough 😅.
I usually use the big tractor for moving any weight, the loader is way smoother and I'd rather keep beating on that one in order to keep the smaller one in better condition a bit longer.
I only got one, so it get beat on a lot lol. Not worth the effort to run and get dad L245 or run down and grab the skid loader or backhoe from my uncle. We do what we can with what we got I guess.
Yep, I have a hard time saying "no" too. Adapter plates are cheap 😁.
 
You make an excellent point. IMO a lot of the duck boat paint is way too dark. Also, a lot of the colors have an olive base and if you take a look at a marsh, there really is no olive out there. There’s mostly tan of dead grass plus medium green of the living grass.

I own the boat that my great grandfather and grandfather originally bought new in 1954. In the mid 80s we converted it to a duck boat. My dad had it sprayed in 86 and had it painted again about 10 years later. The first color was an excellent dead grass color (similar to what I’m using now but maybe a tad more brown) and the second time we went to pick it up and it was an obnoxious shade of pea green. As soon as I was proficient enough to spray myself I covered that up. I’m guessing they didn’t feel like ordering special paint so they mixed up whatever they had left over in the shop. It was also not a very flat finish.

Grabbed a pic of this on the way to work
View attachment 1204468
That's great camo. I can't even see the boat!
 
I only got one, so it get beat on a lot lol. Not worth the effort to run and get dad L245 or run down and grab the skid loader or backhoe from my uncle. We do what we can with what we got I guess.
Yep, I have a hard time saying "no" too. Adapter plates are cheap 😁.
The little one is a B series, lot nicer and the yard. I've been trying really hard to stay off the finished areas, but I may be driving on some a bit as I have use of this beast. I already have done quite a bit, still a good 4-5hrs left depending on what I decide to do here, then I'm going to the guys place we share a drive with, quite a few hrs there too.
Firewood to the left, and a stick of oak on the ground that should be seasoned if 5 or 6 yrs, for the guys into that sort of thing 😆.
20240913_145652.jpg
 
Pretty sure Vince( @Vtrombly ) is familiar with them, but he's not on here often as his schedule is very busy. Maybe @Brufab can get in touch with him and ask him to hop on and help you.
Yea I talk to him almost daily a couple texts or more depending on time/subject
 
Pretty sure Vince( @Vtrombly ) is familiar with them, but he's not on here often as his schedule is very busy. Maybe @Brufab can get in touch with him and ask him to hop on and help you.
He just swapped cranks in a Briggs the other day
 
Just thinking about those crank adaptors, depending in the game of the engine, may be just as cost effective to grab a normal crank off ebay and swap it. Did that a few times already with broken cranks. Definatly not that difficult on a single cylinder engine with a bit of mechanical aptitude.
Replacing the crank is no big deal for me.
Finding the correct crank for this particular engine might be a problem. It's not as common as a B&S, Tecumseh or Kohler. It also came off a John Deere generator. JD is notorious for spec-ing their own engines, so you don't know what is different until you try to exchange parts.
I would have to do some research.
 
Replacing the crank is no big deal for me.
Finding the correct crank for this particular engine might be a problem. It's not as common as a B&S, Tecumseh or Kohler. It also came off a John Deere generator. JD is notorious for spec-ing their own engines, so you don't know what is different until you try to exchange parts.
I would have to do some research.
I forgot the deere bit. unfortunately, formerly working for a company that was a deere industrial dealer, I'm all too familiar with that bs. One of the things I genuinely hate, is a company running a business designed to screw the customer over. Which is every single engine besides the old k series kohler that deere ever used. Including the yanmar engines they used in the smaller tractors. Great machines when they work, hated working on them, and hate their screw you attitude with everything.
 
I forgot the deere bit. unfortunately, formerly working for a company that was a deere industrial dealer, I'm all too familiar with that bs. One of the things I genuinely hate, is a company running a business designed to screw the customer over. Which is every single engine besides the old k series kohler that deere ever used. Including the yanmar engines they used in the smaller tractors. Great machines when they work, hated working on them, and hate their screw you attitude with everything.
You should try the marine world. We have to buy parts for our big in-line 6 Yanmars through Detroit Diesel, and parts for our little 4 cylinder Yanmars through John Deere, despite the fact that we've been a Yanmar dealer for 30 years.

Don't even get me started on the Westerbeke/Kubota relationship.
 
I got a good poison ivy rash going on my gut. Didn't go near any but who knows where the wood I cut all week came from. I have been running my 27 year old Husqy 257 all week. Yesterday the top cover came off, no big deal I put it back on. Then I go for a cold start and notice the choke lever is gone. I looked in vain for it knowing the log yard is full of chips and bark, no luck. Now I'm thinking a 27 year old saw, have fun getting a part. Amazon had one with 9 still in inventory.
 
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