Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Good morning guys

Well, I got the exterior of two boats and a canoe fully painted yesterday. There was a little bit of a learning curve with the sprayer and the paint ended up being super thick so I had to thin it a lot. Also, my large compressor wasn’t regulating so I had to use my pancake compressor which of course made the process slower.

Nonetheless, we are making progress. I ended up having to order a little bit more paint to finish the job, but I have one more boat. I would like to paint so now I’ll have more than enough to do that as well. I’m going to spray the inside of the smaller boat this afternoon.

Marina enamel dries almost immediately, but it takes several weeks to really harden up so I’m going to leave these alone until then.

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Marine enamel? Did you add a hardener? What brand did you buy? I used tractor paint and it's peeling after 3 years. Never hit the water. I like that last boat... I could use that.
 
I’m very squeaky cheap, I’ll rebuild things to get them running every time

I was at the end of my rope with this splitter

Still upset I let the original 8hp go and not fix it

But I’d figured one that came off a snowblower that had a bust gearbox would be perfect

Especially because I abused the hell out of the other engine. I’d leave it out in the weather all year, drain the gas, take the carb apart clean out all the white death and run it non-stop for two weeks just to let it sit for 50weeks all over again

It still ran, just was running out of breath

The second motor, was quite and started easier, just died too soon

Was angry and wanted something brand spanking new….

Started third pull and sipped the fuel

I figure I’ll change the oil in the spring after it’s “broken in”


So, to the tapered engine talk. My pal has a generator that runs but doesn’t make electricity anymore, I’m wondering if with that adapter can we make this other cylinder into another splitter as my nephew is finally convinced he should be selling the firewood instead of dumping it at the dump
 
Yep, but I'll need to cut the old edge off first.
Really like the toothed one on my little tractor, but I like the smooth edge on the big tractor at times too, gotta make a decision.
I will say, the toothed bucket does much better on anything with rocks or stones in it, and grades out topsoil nicely as well.
Any thoughts or suggestions, I'll probably get to it this winter sometime 🤔, or maybe I'll buy another bucket lol.
I have a bolt on edge on my 6 foot bucket. They are not cheap but save the bucket from wearing out or bending the edge of the lip. I was going to make a tooth bar for it but landed a super deal on a bunch of attachments. One was a 6 foot rock bucket. I sold the other attachments and got this rock bucket for free.
 
Thats more or less how I treat the subaru Robin on my log splitter. Got it for free, just needed the hole in the side of the block fixed and a new rod. Guy bought a concrete mixer, never put oil in the engine. Brought it into the shop demanding warranty. For some reason, he wouldn't take "it's not warranty, there's metal transfer on the crank, you didn't have oil in it." Took it apart, pictures etc. Send off to our distributor. Got a big official not warranty back from them. Guy was so mad he said to toss the hunk of junk. J b welded the hole shut, ordered a new rod, had the crank guy clean up the rod journal amd stuck it on my splitter. Been getting neglected and stored outside ever since. One day I'm sure it will bite me.
 
Today I was brush hogging this field. This cute wild dog was following me all around the field eating up little things. I wish that I had my phone at that time. The dog (coyote) got within 20 feet of me several times. It finally left when it got filled up with rodents. There was not a spot of mange on the little fella.
 

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Thats more or less how I treat the subaru Robin on my log splitter. Got it for free, just needed the hole in the side of the block fixed and a new rod. Guy bought a concrete mixer, never put oil in the engine. Brought it into the shop demanding warranty. For some reason, he wouldn't take "it's not warranty, there's metal transfer on the crank, you didn't have oil in it." Took it apart, pictures etc. Send off to our distributor. Got a big official not warranty back from them. Guy was so mad he said to toss the hunk of junk. J b welded the hole shut, ordered a new rod, had the crank guy clean up the rod journal amd stuck it on my splitter. Been getting neglected and stored outside ever since. One day I'm sure it will bite me.
I got 8 years out of the “green” Briggs. Maybe 12 spiller sessions out of the “black” Briggs

Praying the China engine lasts years

I’ll have to take lots of pictures of the splitter build if we do it this winter

Kids just tossing money away not selling that wood
 
Oh, y’all like how I used spray paint to see where to drill the holes?

She ran flawlessly BTW
I’ve done that many times! Great minds think alike lol
Nice work on the boats, Steve. That last skinnier one is pretty neat. Reed camo would be slick.
Wanted to do this to a Coleman ram-x canoe, but couldn't find any paint that would stay stuck.
Thank you.

Have you tried to sand the outside of that Coleman? That may be necessary to get the paint to stick. A lot of those composite canoes are very shiny from the factory.
Marine enamel? Did you add a hardener? What brand did you buy? I used tractor paint and it's peeling after 3 years. Never hit the water. I like that last boat... I could use that.
What I’m using right now is Duralux brand marine camo paint thinned with lacquer thinner at a rate of about three parts paint to one part thinner. No hardener. This is much cheaper paint than what I would use on nicer boat. On that note, I prefer the Pettit brand if you’re painting fresh aluminum. But like I mentioned, these boards are cheap and a couple of them had already been painted with a brush by somebody else so I’m just covering that up and making them one color. Duralux is $47 a gallon versus Pettit at $49 a quart. I will say the mileage is definitely better with Pettit.

I’ve never used hardener in any of the painting I’ve done (mostly boats and trailers and other equipment but also a few daily driver vehicles). I wonder how much it would decrease the curing time for these?

I learned a lot about painting from a good friend’s father (RIP). Marine enamel takes a long time to fully cure. Back when I worked on boats a lot in high school we would often use boats a week or two after painting, but the longer you can let them sit the better. He always said the best rule of thumb is enamel is fully cured when you can no longer smell fresh paint if you put your nose up to it. I’m going to let these guys sit for a month or so unless something comes up that requires me to use them. Will be interesting to see the durability compared to Pettit.

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This afternoon I got the smaller of the two boats fully painted. After the seemingly endless morning dew finally evaporated, we very gently flipped it over and set it on a trailer.

I ordered a couple of transom savers from Amazon and one of them arrived today. I popped that on before painting started.

I’m waiting for the next gallon of paint to arrive so I can finish the StarCraft and I have one more boat to paint before closing up the “booth” for the winter.
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Thanks guys! Just looking at the pics now I noticed there are some shiny areas, those did flatten out after drying.

I bought a reed stencil kit and a few contrasting green and brown rattle cans. Will test it out as time allows.
Best boat paint I used was True Value duck boat and blind paint. Not made anymore. It was a color that would blend In with anything.
 
I didn't know that some pressure washers have tapered shafts. Is it easy to tell if it's tapered or not? I'm looking for a used pressure washer to use the engine on my splitter.
More or less, the pump shaft mounts directly to the crank. The pump will be quite close to the engine as well. Usually it's vertical engines with underslung pumps, think home owner grade, psi ratings typically 2700 psi and under. 3k psi seems to be the change over for some reason.
 
Here is an interesting video I found on how one person cleans up old iron


I decided to try the electric method after watching this video using an old WalMart tote I had, a trickle charger and a spike for the sacrifice. It was the easiest method I found and worked decent. The leftover rust was taken off easily.
 
I’m very squeaky cheap, I’ll rebuild things to get them running every time

I was at the end of my rope with this splitter

Still upset I let the original 8hp go and not fix it

But I’d figured one that came off a snowblower that had a bust gearbox would be perfect

Especially because I abused the hell out of the other engine. I’d leave it out in the weather all year, drain the gas, take the carb apart clean out all the white death and run it non-stop for two weeks just to let it sit for 50weeks all over again

It still ran, just was running out of breath

The second motor, was quite and started easier, just died too soon

Was angry and wanted something brand spanking new….

Started third pull and sipped the fuel

I figure I’ll change the oil in the spring after it’s “broken in”


So, to the tapered engine talk. My pal has a generator that runs but doesn’t make electricity anymore, I’m wondering if with that adapter can we make this other cylinder into another splitter as my nephew is finally convinced he should be selling the firewood instead of dumping it at the dump
I understand, I got that way with my saws. Dad and I were cutting a massive white oak down beside my house and both of our old faithful's let me down and got me all flustered. Dads old 702 Echo that I can't remember ever having anything wrong with it lost the throttle rod when I was half way through the back cut. My grandpas 044 wouldn't start after that and was half running when we did get it going, not a good thing when you got a 38in DBH white oak half cut off next to your house.

Needless to say I broke down and bought me a brand new chainsaw a few months later for Christmas, first brand new piece of equipment I have ever bought. Now I know I have a saw that I can count on and I can go back to enjoying my old ones as I work on them and use them instead of relying on them and some 40 year old issue letting me down for the day.

My splitter got me close to that last year.... I chased run away issues as in the governor was not controlling it really at all so it was either screaming to get it to split or it would bog out., and I was having to run it half choke to get it to run, but it would also flood out under heavy load. Turns out the Chinesium carb they (PO) put on it had an egg shaped bore so even though the governor had the throttle completely shut it was still sucking enough air to make it run away with no load. This also disrupted the venturi on the idle circuit which is why I was having to choke it at no load but when I was splitting big stuff it would flood as the throttle would open and the main would take up and........ yea. I threw that away and got an OE one to rebuild and have not had any more trouble.

Even if the adapter would not work directly on the generator engine, I would have no trouble setting it up to run the pump with a belt, I know you can get tapered pulleys, could even do a double belt if you're feeling fancy.
 
Best boat paint I used was True Value duck boat and blind paint. Not made anymore. It was a color that would blend In with anything.
You make an excellent point. IMO a lot of the duck boat paint is way too dark. Also, a lot of the colors have an olive base and if you take a look at a marsh, there really is no olive out there. There’s mostly tan of dead grass plus medium green of the living grass.

I own the boat that my great grandfather and grandfather originally bought new in 1954. In the mid 80s we converted it to a duck boat. My dad had it sprayed in 86 and had it painted again about 10 years later. The first color was an excellent dead grass color (similar to what I’m using now but maybe a tad more brown) and the second time we went to pick it up and it was an obnoxious shade of pea green. As soon as I was proficient enough to spray myself I covered that up. I’m guessing they didn’t feel like ordering special paint so they mixed up whatever they had left over in the shop. It was also not a very flat finish.

Grabbed a pic of this on the way to work
IMG_2081.jpeg
 
I have a bolt on edge on my 6 foot bucket. They are not cheap but save the bucket from wearing out or bending the edge of the lip. I was going to make a tooth bar for it but landed a super deal on a bunch of attachments. One was a 6 foot rock bucket. I sold the other attachments and got this rock bucket for free.
Nice deal, gotta love that :clap:.
I could have bought a decent pin on rock bucket not long ago for 200, and I have a SSQD plate I could have used. I wasn't quite ready for it and don't need a crapton of stuff laying around, already have a bunch :yes:.
I haven't really priced bolt on edges out, but I need to get it done sooner rather than later. The edge and the lower portion of my bucket is all bent up(both the front and middle), those bolt on forks are convenient; but if you use them as much as I do and for heavy work, they will tear your bucket up bad.
The toothed bucket on my little tractor turned it into a digging machine, comparing it to the flat edge one that was on my previous little tractor(same size). It will out dig my bigger tractor if there are a bunch of smaller rocks, as the standard edge just rolls over them. It's what I grab if I need to move a rock pile I can't get under with the larger bucket/tractor, it's hard to believe the difference without experiencing it myself.
As Sean was talking about, I need to remove the old welded on edge(or put a filler plate on the back side of the edge to take up the gap. I've probably worn 3" off the one on it now, guess I've gotten some good use out of it!
 
You make an excellent point. IMO a lot of the duck boat paint is way too dark. Also, a lot of the colors have an olive base and if you take a look at a marsh, there really is no olive out there. There’s mostly tan of dead grass plus medium green of the living grass.

I own the boat that my great grandfather and grandfather originally bought new in 1954. In the mid 80s we converted it to a duck boat. My dad had it sprayed in 86 and had it painted again about 10 years later. The first color was an excellent dead grass color (similar to what I’m using now but maybe a tad more brown) and the second time we went to pick it up and it was an obnoxious shade of pea green. As soon as I was proficient enough to spray myself I covered that up. I’m guessing they didn’t feel like ordering special paint so they mixed up whatever they had left over in the shop. It was also not a very flat finish.

Grabbed a pic of this on the way to work
View attachment 1204468

Your post made me wonder if ducks might be colourblind, and then the shape of the camouflage would be more important than the colour.

They are not. They can see colours well. They might have better UV vision than humans.

Info here:

https://deltawaterfowl.org/what-do-ducks-see/
 

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