Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[zogger]

What's a peavey?

Edit: I kept looking and found it. Looks very useful http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Peavey_2_(PSF).png


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Here is mine. I will call it a log lifter and not a peavey, although it is similar. Useful for the right size logs, too big, nope, too small, nope. Around 12 to pushing it at 20 inches, and not real long. You got to have enough beef at the other end to get it to pickup and swing over a little and settle on the foot. Just for rolling though it works OK too. This one is a tractor supply special, I disremember what I paid for it, not much I think, around 30 bucks?

Bonus pic, my old 3400 when I still had it. It got heisted along with some other cool saws.

 

[nomad_archer]

marcy here is a link to a gas can you may like http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6UHHuVGtFGI#t=14

That was the one I was referring to. I have a 1.5 or 1.25 gal can and a 5 gal can. I have not had any leaking issues.

 

[nomad_archer]

Those no-spill gas cans look great - I haven't seen them up here yet, but will keep an eye out.

This guy seems to think there are leaking problems with them? Anyone experienced the same issue or is he just not tightening it adequately?

They redesigned the top nozzel in 2010 after the recalled a bunch of gas cans for a possible leak issue. The new ones that I have dont leak and have a different child safe locking mechanism

 

[nomad_archer]

What some call "rakers" (as if they were cutters, like on a hand-saw) have been called "depth gauges" by mfgs since the first chipper chain. Gee, that describes their function.

Seems like some folks are talking up randomly filing them down occasionally. Not a good idea. Once filed down too much, the chain gets really grabby, a safety problem, and very rough-cutting at best. Chain links can even be damaged. Once too low, they can't be raised.

To do them right, you file them down to .025" below the tops of the cutters. That's all. Some filing guides, like Granberg's "File-N-Joint" enable quick simple and precise setting. I even posted a quick, cheap and dirty guide to setting depth gauges with one, to reduce conscious thought requirement: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/filing-depth-gauges-with-granberg-guide.238512/

I've found that, using that guide for filing, a chain's cutters gets worn back so slowly that the wear rate on the depth gauges keeps them in step- they almost never need filing.

Fluid containers:
In my "kit bag" are a fuel container for a backpacking stove. Holds mix tighly sealed and easily poured. Also a dish detergent bottle full of bar oil. Works great. Cost nada.

Yep I use a depth gauge tool to set my rakers. I set mine at either .025 or .030 depending on what I will be cutting. The depth guage tool is like $3 but you need to get it right or like CTYank says it can be very grabby or extremely rough.

 

[dwasifar]

When you see a pile of wood, what numbers do you use to estimate how many cords it'll end up being?

My rule of thumb is that when I've loaded my wife's little SUV with enough logs to make me start worrying about the rear springs, it's about 1/4 cord.

 

[marcy-m]

Here is mine. I will call it a log lifter and not a peavey, although it is similar. Useful for the right size logs, too big, nope, too small, nope. Around 12 to pushing it at 20 inches, and not real long. You got to have enough beef at the other end to get it to pickup and swing over a little and settle on the foot. Just for rolling though it works OK too. This one is a tractor supply special, I disremember what I paid for it, not much I think, around 30 bucks?

Bonus pic, my old 3400 when I still had it. It got heisted along with some other cool saws.

Do you use it to lift the log off the ground for sawing? Is it easier than plain ole rolling?

That was a long bar! Sorry about the sticky fingers. Stupid thieves. Nice saw!

What do you think of the poulan pro 262 42 cc that was ran one season for a few hours, winterized, now he ca't start it. It's $40. He says he just never got the hand of starting it.


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[zogger]

Do you use it to lift the log off the ground for sawing? Is it easier than plain ole rolling?

That was a long bar! Sorry about the sticky fingers. Stupid thieves. Nice saw!

What do you think of the poulan pro 262 42 cc that was ran one season for a few hours, winterized, now he ca't start it. It's $40. He says he just never got the hand of starting it.


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Yes, you go back a few cuts on the log end, grab it, roll it back and up and it sits on the foot, so you can make some clean bucking cuts.

As to the poulan, no idea on something that doesn't start and run. Could be a minor problem, just a dirty tank and a clogged up carb, to the guy could have toasted it and is giving you a story.

Rule of thumb on craigslist..the more people minimize what they say is wrong with something, the worse it really is. If it was "minor", well, mr braniac woud fix it in three minutes and ask three times the money for it. saws/cars/trucks you name it.

IF you want to try it out, to check the saw, pull the plug, add maybe 1/4 teaspoon of fresh mix down the hole, then try starting it, see if it pops and runs.

Anyway, not saying it isn't worth it, not saying it is either. 40 is pretty high for a poulan non runner, unless it is some valuable semi collectable model.

 

[MustangMike]

Marcy, Never buy a saw in the "blind". Find someone who knows their stuff to come and look at it with you, or you stand a high chance of getting burned.

 

[marcy-m]

As to the poulan, no idea on something that doesn't start and run. Could be a minor problem, just a dirty tank and a clogged up carb, to the guy could have toasted it and is giving you a story.

Rule of thumb on craigslist..the more people minimize what they say is wrong with something, the worse it really is. If it was "minor", well, mr braniac woud fix it in three minutes and ask three times the money for it. saws/cars/trucks you name it.

IF you want to try it out, to check the saw, pull the plug, add maybe 1/4 teaspoon of fresh mix down the hole, then try starting it, see if it pops and runs.

Anyway, not saying it isn't worth it, not saying it is either. 40 is pretty high for a poulan non runner, unless it is some valuable semi collectable model.

I figured since I'm having such a time starting mine, maybe it's the same with him. I'm trrying to be cautious. buyer beware. Thanks for the info about starting it. I wasn't interested in buying it unless we could reasonably be sure we could fix it cheap. What about saws that will start but not stay running? Are those a better bet?

This non-runner is supposed to be 1 yr old, so not collectible or rare.

Thanks!


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[zogger]

I figured since I'm having such a time starting mine, maybe it's the same with him. I'm trrying to be cautious. buyer beware. Thanks for the info about starting it. I wasn't interested in buying it unless we could reasonably be sure we could fix it cheap. What about saws that will start but not stay running? Are those a better bet?

This non-runner is supposed to be 1 yr old, so not collectible or rare.

Thanks!


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http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/free-craftsman-chain-saw.259989/

 

[dancan]

Marcy , go to home depot and see if they have any rental saws for sale.
Stay away from the non runners .
Plenty of good guys there. Buy new and used from here.

 

[MountainHigh]

and stay away from low octane Ethanol pump gas in your 40 to 1 mix - leaving ethanol gas mix in the tank over time, is the reason many saws gum up and won't start and/or run well.
- - -

And even worse, I was looking at a near new 555 and couldn't figure out what was wrong with it - I took it to a service guy - he pulled the muffler and showed me the scoring on the cylinder wall - indicative of running without mix oil - the almost brand new saw was a throw away.

 

[MustangMike]

Mountain, ran a MM ported 562 on Sunday, AWSOME! Also ran an un-ported 560 and it was also strong, a nice saw.

 

[marcy-m]

showed me the scoring on the cylinder wall - indicative of running without mix oil - the almost brand new saw was a throw away.

That's exactly what I thought - people running them on straight gas. My husband is going to go with me. He's no expert by a long shot, but he knows way more than I do.

I bought some canned fuel tonight to put in the saw. I wonder if that 2nd start will be easier for me once a few tanks of non ethanol fuel flow through it.


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[marcy-m]

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/free-craftsman-chain-saw.259989/

I was too late. Helping my teen son build a bag holder out of PVC for his lawn business. Thanks for passing it along.


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[MountainHigh]

Mountain, ran a MM ported 562 on Sunday, AWSOME! Also ran an un-ported 560 and it was also strong, a nice saw.

NICE! - any more details?

So I'm guessing you are now on verge of porting your 362 c-m?

 

[MountainHigh]

I bought some canned fuel tonight to put in the saw. I wonder if that 2nd start will be easier for me once a few tanks of non ethanol fuel flow through it.

It might work some loose, but depends on cause and how much gunk is in lines.

Standard practice is to check sparkplug and gap, and replace if worn badly - clean air filter (regularly), a clogged filter can cause poor running - and always use high octane gas mix (canned stuff is pricey so I use 93 octane pump gas - in Canada some 93 octane is guaranteed to contain no ethanol) -

If that doesn't fix your running issues, it may be time for a) some carb adjustment or b) a carb kit. c) carb kit and new fuel lines d) if you are mechanically challenged, a visit to your 2 stroke engine tech

 

[marcy-m]

If that doesn't fix your running issues, it may be time for a) some carb adjustment or b) a carb kit.

Is rebuilding a carbeurator something that my son and I can learn? Is that reasonable? We watched a youtube video, so you know that makes us experts, right?


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[MountainHigh]

Is rebuilding a carbeurator something that my son and I can learn? Is that reasonable? We watched a youtube video, so you know that makes us experts, right?


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sure you can learn - carb kit is cheap. Youtube is great if you're selective - if you can find same make and model instructions it makes it even easier.

Worst case scenario is you screw up and have to buy new carb - usually not that pricey as well. If the saw is mission critical, then a good idea would be to check around for parts in advance of experimenting with repairs.

imho, taking risks and learning to be self-sufficient is a good thing - seldom a straight line to your goal, but good nevertheless. "The winner is the person that failed the most times" - can't remember author but I like it.

 

[hardpan]

In the carb don't poke wire in the holes and don't power blast through them with pressurized carb cleaner spray. Check the muffler screen for clogging.