The 2001 Blazer parasitic draw saga continues... Note the gauge positions in the photo. The engine is off, the key is not in the ignition, and the vehicle hasn't been used since last Saturday! Ugh...
Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)
- Thread starter mainewoods
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Bummer, least you got some fuel left
. Did you check for a draw across the individual fuse terminals. That will at least get it narrowed down to the right circuit.
Yes... we did that. It seemed to be the circuit for the IPC but we we're not sure if it should read zero or not... none of the others had a load. I don't know if the parasitic drain is due to a constant load or an intermittent load. Multiple mechanics have done diagnostics. Between them and I we've inactivated everything non-essential to it running and having lights... radio, climate control, power seats, etc. are all disconnected. Will be checking it again! I should note that it had been on the trickle charge since last Saturday but the battery was drawn way down. The trickle charger was not connected when I took the photo.Bummer, least you got some fuel left
Did you check for a draw across the individual fuse terminals. That will at least get it narrowed down to the right circuit.
I didn't miss that one, I saw it. But I'd rather have this one.
It's just a little too far away.
For you e-truck fans there is another option!
GrizG might be a drain back through the alternator ( rectifier- diodes), which means its on it way out. There also a time delay relay ( solid state ) on the dash display board, they go bad causing a drain also. it also turns a security system on in some units of that era.
Have you disconnected the alternator? I've seen more than one go bad and create a draw even though they charge just fine.
Got the last two loads of wood out from my oak scrounge. 9 small trailers and one monster trailer load. Some big ol prehistoric oak too 
Found this in the flower garden . I believe it’s an ash that would be nice that they are coming back 
I used my log splitter today after installing a new pump. I had to make incremental adjustments to the relief valve on the control valve. It splits most wood like before, but harder crotch wood causes it to die. I've got it adjusted to the point of where the engine almost dies when the ram hits the end plate. I don't think anymore adjustments would help. Is there some type of adjustment on the pump? The pump is not undersized is it? The splitter had a 11 gpm pump on it and that's what I replace it with.
The relief should just make noise when the ram stops while the engine continues to run. The relief should be set with a teed in pressure gauge. I think you may have a governor or carburetor issue. Maybe the carb is a little dirty. These newer engines are set so lean that any bit of dirt or varnish in the jets can cause all sorts of issues. It's really hard to diagnose something like this without seeing or hearing it run.
D@mn engineers anywho.
Driver of flag vehicle was told by boss, "Don't drive up front, you must hang back."
Disconnect the battery. Then check to see if the gauges moved. I have seen this on other vehicles and never thought a thing about it. I do know that my former 2003 BMW 330XI and my 2007 Audi A4 Quattro both could wear a battery down in 3 weeks time if not driven.
gregozedobe
ArboristSite Lurker
That's not as bad as a Ford Laser TX3 I used to own, the old oil would drip onto the flexible coupling on the exhaust, soak in and stink for days afterwards as the exhaust heated up. My solution was to wrap aluminium foil on the exhaust first, then remove it after I'd finished the oil change. It looked like the drainage path was a deliberate "design feature" to discourage owners from doing their own servicing.
MechanicMatt
Cut Split Stack Burn
Great morning fishing
Captain Kristina found the fish
Captain Kristina found the fish
And then there was none my method is to cut the ends off and dump the trailer till the logs slide down about 3 ft lower the dump cut and repeat 
Think she will notice if I put these in the hamper ?
