Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Seal dangit! Not deal.
Check your fuel and air lines. Make sure where they attach from the tank to the carb are not loose or the line damaged. The line itself may be old and need to be replaced. I just went through the exact thing you did and ended up replacing all the lines. I also found a little chunk of bug in the fuel line at the same time as well as the line rotting out under a clamp. All fuel and air lines.
 
OK, I stand corrected. I saw samples of plain Por-15 coated and uncoated sheet steel dump[ed in the Mississippi River for a year. Por-15 was unscathed. Maybe it is the steel underneath.

I have a fender that was OE, factory, in 1975, and was painted like a 40s chevrolet, Many coats of lacquer. It has tiny bubbles in about a 1/2" grid. a tiny bubble every 1/2 inch, more or less. That has to be the underlying steel, perhaps coupled with not thoroughly degreased before priming. It was ok for the first 30-40 years. Weird.
Maybe it is the Mexican steel on my truck since it was made in Mexico. Like I mentioned. I have other items that I have used it on and it is fine. That frame was blasted clean. Prepped with the POR15 pre- paint crap and painted. I'll just keep spraying it with Fluid Film.
 
We were out again around 9:30pm last night, and they are adequate to see and do things, but just not great at getting the light to the floor level. 12 foot ceilings. I think we're going to wait till the end of year sales and get something else, with deflectors. Sounds like she wants to try them out in the basement when we get different lights for the shop. I think with the lower ceiling they will be fine.
Honestly, I'm being picky and I like bright lights. I can always turn some off of it don't need the extra lights.
Don’t know if it’s an option but I’ve seen some shops with lights part way down on the walls, really helped with more light at floor level.
 
So a question for those familiar with engines on riders. ( I'm a 2 stroke only guy) I've been roped into working on a rider and it's giving me fits. My question is, knowing the case got flooded with gas due to a bad carb seal, could there be valve and or push rod damage and could it cause a " runs only on choke situation?"
Anytime I have this problem it is a collapsed fuel line from the tank, a bad fuel pump or suction line from the pump to the motor or a plugged up main jet passageway. I have done plenty of fixes on mowers and snowblowers with that same problem.
 
Check your fuel and air lines. Make sure where they attach from the tank to the carb are not loose or the line damaged. The line itself may be old and need to be replaced. I just went through the exact thing you did and ended up replacing all the lines. I also found a little chunk of bug in the fuel line at the same time as well as the line rotting out under a clamp. All fuel and air lines.
You might want to check the fuel tank if you haven't already. My had a bunch of earwigs in it. How they got there I don't know but I removed the tank and cleaned it out at the same time.
 
Don’t know if it’s an option but I’ve seen some shops with lights part way down on the walls, really helped with more light at floor level.
Yes, it could be. Basically don't have any power ran to anything other then the air compressor and main shop lights. Could run some zip cord and hang a few lights to see how it works.
 
It's possible there's a fuel supply issue too. Screen in the tank clogged up slowing fuel flow. Would be helpful to know what it's on/ what engine it is. Possibly point you in a better direction. There are some passages you won't be able to rod out depending on the carb configuration. Makes it difficult to diagnose. Does it surge while running without the choke, or on partial choke or just not run at all without the choke?
11 or 12 hp Briggs single cylinder.
Good flow to the carb.
Smooth with choke on but dies quickly if I try to back in out of the choke position.
Only other thing I could possibly imagine is the float not pulling the needle up high enough.
 
Check your fuel and air lines. Make sure where they attach from the tank to the carb are not loose or the line damaged. The line itself may be old and need to be replaced. I just went through the exact thing you did and ended up replacing all the lines. I also found a little chunk of bug in the fuel line at the same time as well as the line rotting out under a clamp. All fuel and air lines.
Hmmm I could try the fuel line. Not much for an air line except a breather tube.
 
You might want to check the fuel tank if you haven't already. My had a bunch of earwigs in it. How they got there I don't know but I removed the tank and cleaned it out at the same time.
Thanks. Good flow to the carb.
 
11 or 12 hp Briggs single cylinder.
Good flow to the carb.
Smooth with choke on but dies quickly if I try to back in out of the choke position.
Only other thing I could possibly imagine is the float not pulling the needle up high enough.
How full is the bowl when you lower it?

The float may not be adjusted correctly allowing adequate fuel

For giggles, did you do a compression test?
Air/Fuel/Spark

Compression falls under Air in my mind…
 
How full is the bowl when you lower it?

The float may not be adjusted correctly allowing adequate fuel

For giggles, did you do a compression test?
Air/Fuel/Spark

Compression falls under Air in my mind…
I have not done a compression check. Do you believe that could cause running on choke only?
 
It does seem to have plenty of resistance on the starter. I put back in the old needle and float which it had been running fine with and no change.
There almost has to be something blocked in the carb. There often are passages that can't be cleaned without taking plugs out. My two cents, hard to diagnose like this.
 
There almost has to be something blocked in the carb. There often are passages that can't be cleaned without taking plugs out. My two cents, hard to diagnose like this.
I agree. Are there any welch plugs in the fuel chamber you can pick out?
 
I agree. Are there any welch plugs in the fuel chamber you can pick out?
There was one Welch plug . I removed it and there was no crud under it. Out of curiosity, I ordered a new one. I hear it's a crap shoot on those replacements, but for $20 , I'll give it a shot.
 

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