Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
No company that sells ammo will ship anything to Taxachusetts. Here they require outside vendors to have an ammunition permit to ship here. We are screwed for ordering ammo, powder, primers and most others items online. Many people just go out of State to buy supplies. Also having friends in nearby States helps too. Taxachusetts is now keeping records on all ammo purchases. Walmart stopped selling ammo here a few months ago. This State has gone to shat big time with our illustrious Governor. Her new gun restrictions were put in without any hearings. C U, Next Tuesday is what gunowners call her.
Road trip…
We shall see if scotus has any balls this term…
 
Thought I'd post some pics of a nasty patch of wind fall I'm cleaning up for a customer. It's basically the fringe of a grove of Spruce on her property that borders an old logging clear cut. A lot of my neighbor's are having this problem ever since they logged the forest in tbis particular area. I really don't like dealing with big patches of blow down. It can be quite dangerous. Even if one has a lot of experience dealing with windfall. A lot of hidden dangers. One must look the entire patch over carefully before they begin to harvest and even then hazards can easily be overlooked or hidden. Not the most desirable scrounge for sure! 😬

The customer is a young lady and has recently been widowed within the year. She dosent have much money, so I'm doing this job for her at a HUGE discount. She's very happy with the price and she is also giving me the majority of the wood. I truly feel for her loss and am greatful I can make her property a safer environment for her kids to play. 😔

View attachment 1229555View attachment 1229556View attachment 1229557View attachment 1229558View attachment 1229559View attachment 1229560View attachment 1229561View attachment 1229562

With the exception of a few cuts I made the day before. This particular photo is basically a before pic of one end of the patch of wind fallen timber
View attachment 1229563
View attachment 1229565

I will safely dispose of or tip the root wads back into place once the logs and tops are hauled out. 👍🏻

Cut safe, stay sharp and be aware.
Id have rented a trackhoe 😳
 
Define "arborist territory". Looks good to me, but Im no arborist.🙅 There are only 20 licensed arborists in the state of Alaska and hundreds of tree service companies.
That's why I said 'arguably :) . However, even if the risk factor is rather small, such trees are usually 'dismantled' top-to-bottom around here. Not the first time I fell a tree close to buildings, but closer than usual... An arborist would probably quote 300 - 600 per tree, so not a bad deal for the owners.
 
Negative. Solid logs in log homes insulate quite well. Packed saw waste will insulate even better. No matter how hard you pack it. There will stihl be air in the mix.
Pine is approximately 1 R per inch, not even close to what most insulation is. If you have nothing else, it's better than nothing, but I'd say it's far from quite well.
Just looked it up, about 1R per inch.
https://safewarmdry.com/my-column-o...u compare the R,little or no thermal benefits.
Screenshot_20250107_063039_Google.jpg
The short walls on the lean-to area of my barn are only 4" with a 2x4 girt on them, I have 1.5" of foil faced isopoly, that's approximately R-9 based on 6 R per inch. Then I have another half inch standing upright, then a 2x4 wall with r-11. Overall that's 23 R for 7", that's on my thinnest wall. In that 12x24 I had no problem heating it with a 1500 watt electric heater, when the main is heated I should be able to easily heat it with 750-1000 watt, if I use electric.
I would have liked to have at least 3/8 on the whole exterior as a thermal break, and at least an inch under the concrete 4' from the perimeter, and an inch on the outside edge of the concrete inside the forms/skirt board. Unfortunately we/you can't always get what you want :guitar:, but I try sometimes lol.
 
Sounds like a good price installed.

Will you put insulation under the slab, wish I would have. I know around here the guys who do radiant in the floor use insulation. I used heavy gauge poly under mine, just to keep the moisture down.
Mine slab is only 4" thick, except for the 3'x4' pads under the lift, that's 8" and has rebar in it. The rest is 6 sack with commercial fiber (longer than residential). They also used a power trowel on it and finished it to a very smooth finish, so smooth a squeegee works great on it, little slippery when wet. I sprayed it all with a concrete hardener, it holds the water in the concrete much longer. Which really pissed off the guy who was cutting it because he had to wait much longer than he thought/planned for to cut it, I'm sure the poly under it helped hold the water as well.
Will you put any drains in.
Wish I would have put water under to the main bay before the pour.

What happens to the condensation on the steel in that 1" gap?
I've installed enough insulation not to want to anytime soon, but I'll be doing more soon enough lol.
I only have equivalent to one of these stacks left, and most of that will be used to finish the main bay south wall and the rest of the east wall. The east wall gets 1.5" between the girts, already have r-19 between the studs. The south wall has 1.5 between the girts, I'll add another 1.75" and then r-13. Hope I have enough in there.
View attachment 1231824
This is the bay door I'm building. Just got the last of the metal frame for the sides/ends tonight, hope to have it hung by two weekends from now. Should be starting to warm up by then lol.
4 inch thick metal roofing panels, they say they are R-32
View attachment 1231831
View attachment 1231832
I will put insulation under and on the sides of the slab . Required here anyway as is a vapor barrier. They frown on any type of drains where autos or power equipment are stored .

The way Prodex works is it pretty much seals the inside like an envelope the warm air never gets to the metal to condensate. Also helps control radiant heat gain in summer . And the air circulates much like rafters in the house . You need the airspace for air to circulate against the roof .
 
I will put insulation under and on the sides of the slab . Required here anyway as is a vapor barrier. They frown on any type of drains where autos or power equipment are stored .

The way Prodex works is it pretty much seals the inside like an envelope the warm air never gets to the metal to condensate. Also helps control radiant heat gain in summer . And the air circulates much like rafters in the house . You need the airspace for air to circulate against the roof .
is that just because you won't have eves to vent the roof? I left the gap more for fear of trapping moisture between the insulation and tin then for roof venting purposes. Put 20' of ridge vent in the peek of the roof and going with vented soffit all around. The wall cavitys do go up into the "attic" (not really an attic) space, so I guess they could follow the same principal.
 
I will put insulation under and on the sides of the slab . Required here anyway as is a vapor barrier. They frown on any type of drains where autos or power equipment are stored .

The way Prodex works is it pretty much seals the inside like an envelope the warm air never gets to the metal to condensate. Also helps control radiant heat gain in summer . And the air circulates much like rafters in the house . You need the airspace for air to circulate against the roof .
I used some prodex in my cabin.

It's a cathedral ceiling and I needed a way to introduce venting, insulation and Vapor sealing all in one 8 inch cavity. At the top of the blocking between each rafter, I drilled 3 one inch holes. I then nailed 1x2 furring strips along the rafter to create a spacer for the 2 inch foam board to rest aginst creating an air gap. Then I cut prodex 4 inches wider than the rafter and used that to create an vapor and slight insulating value to make a totally sealed off rafter bay.

I don't use the cabin in the winter, so it works just fine for the times I do use it. It keeps it actually very warm and no hot air hits the roof. After a frost, the frost stays on the roof even with a hot fire going on in the inside.

I had no idea just how hard and labor intensive it was to insulate a cathedral correctly. I was going to just spray foam it, but after my experience using it on the floor, I wanted something different.

20230814_113356.jpg
 
Pine is approximately 1 R per inch, not even close to what most insulation is. If you have nothing else, it's better than nothing, but I'd say it's far from quite well.
Just looked it up, about 1R per inch.
https://safewarmdry.com/my-column-on-castanet/all-about-wood-chip-insulation/#:~:text=If you compare the R,little or no thermal benefits.
View attachment 1231863
The short walls on the lean-to area of my barn are only 4" with a 2x4 girt on them, I have 1.5" of foil faced isopoly, that's approximately R-9 based on 6 R per inch. Then I have another half inch standing upright, then a 2x4 wall with r-11. Overall that's 23 R for 7", that's on my thinnest wall. In that 12x24 I had no problem heating it with a 1500 watt electric heater, when the main is heated I should be able to easily heat it with 750-1000 watt, if I use electric.
I would have liked to have at least 3/8 on the whole exterior as a thermal break, and at least an inch under the concrete 4' from the perimeter, and an inch on the outside edge of the concrete inside the forms/skirt board. Unfortunately we/you can't always get what you want :guitar:, but I try sometimes lol.
Shoot, I'm just hoping to get r20 till everything is finished up.
 
Road trip…
We shall see if scotus has any balls this term…
We just had an illegal living in the Quality Inn in Revere MA. arrested for having an AR-15 and $750,000 worth of drugs. He was living here courtesy of our Governor using taxpayer dollars to house and feed the SOB. Thirteen more days before the exports begin.
 
Sawdust is a VG insulator; they used to use it to preserve ice back when folks needed ice squares for their ice boxes.

The problem is that it is NOT fire retardant, which is why most building codes will require real insulation. In fact, my favorite fire starter is wood noodles.

So, I would not recommend it for any building that you sleep in.
Have you ever seen the haybale houses that they build up in Canada. It is basically a post and beam house with haybales in between the beams for insulation. I think I posted pictures of them many years ago about them.
 
Told my boy I wanted him to be able to see me struggle thru the process of building mine, so he wouldknow he could build whateverhe wants. He said what he learned was that he wants to make enough money so he doesn't have to :laugh: . I don't blame him, but he'll learn about the realities of life soon enough.
My son said that same thing when I tried showing him how to fix or build things. When he bought his first condo he found out the cost to hire contractors in Boston. He started calling his younger sister to ask her how to fix things. She was already doing repairs over at the farm we own doing her own plumbing, wiring, painting, fixing old windows and whatever else needed to be done.
 
My son said that same thing when I tried showing him how to fix or build things. When he bought his first condo he found out the cost to hire contractors in Boston. He started calling his younger sister to ask her how to fix things.
Necessity is the Mother of Invention! When the price of fuel oil tripled overnight (Jimmy Carter was President) I installed an airtight woodstove made from a 55-gallon drum and learned how to use a chainsaw (my first father-in-law was a tree guy). Wood was transported home in the back of my Pinto station wagon! I split everything by hand ... did not get a hydraulic splitter till I was in my 60s.

When I needed a larger house, but could not afford one, I purchased a building lot (w/o BOH approval), got the approval, rented an excavator to do the footings, did the foundation, bought a modular ranch and got my "Homeowner Electrical License" (they are NLA) to wire downstairs and connect to the modular. I also did all the plumbing, which my brother (a PE) certified. I did the electric and plumbing after work using Coleman lanterns for light. I called this project my second education!
 
Never know what you're gonna see at a Dollar General in January!:lol: View attachment 1231962He drives that mower from 3 miles away.

There is someone at my work who's car was totaled after hitting a deer last about 2 years ago so he started driving his mower to work but he lives in town. He still drives his mower to work whenever he can, even in the winter.
 
Necessity is the Mother of Invention! When the price of fuel oil tripled overnight (Jimmy Carter was President) I installed an airtight woodstove made from a 55-gallon drum and learned how to use a chainsaw (my first father-in-law was a tree guy). Wood was transported home in the back of my Pinto station wagon! I split everything by hand ... did not get a hydraulic splitter till I was in my 60s.

When I needed a larger house, but could not afford one, I purchased a building lot (w/o BOH approval), got the approval, rented an excavator to do the footings, did the foundation, bought a modular ranch and got my "Homeowner Electrical License" (they are NLA) to wire downstairs and connect to the modular. I also did all the plumbing, which my brother (a PE) certified. I did the electric and plumbing after work using Coleman lanterns for light. I called this project my second education!
Here we can do our own electric . No test or paperwork just need an electrical permit and have it inspected by the building inspector. Plumbing different story your suppose to get a certificate from the town after taking a test and pay your fee. Guess the plumbers union has more pull than the electricians.
 
My in-laws old farm house had newspaper in the west walls and nothing at all in the east.
That reminded me of another story about a house remodeling that had newspapers/magazines used as insulation. While going through papers pulled from the walls a complete copy of Action Comics #1, the very first comic book featuring Superman was found. Despite the wear and tear from being in the wall for years it was in decent shape and sold for around $1 million.
 
There is someone at my work who's car was totaled after hitting a deer last about 2 years ago so he started driving his mower to work but he lives in town. He still drives his mower to work whenever he can, even in the winter.
Busch is the reason here.:drinking:
 
Pffft. The last guy to drink Busch in Wisconsin was probably me, and that was in 2023.
Lol! I can't go to any of my friends houses without being offered that swill. Go to the local convenience store on any night and you'll see at least one guy walking out with a 30 pack. If I'm drinking water for beer it's gonna be Coors Light. I will, however, drink Busch Light if it's offered to me...it's rude to turn down a free beer!:cheers:
 
Lol! I can't go to any of my friends houses without being offered that swill. Go to the local convenience store on any night and you'll see at least one guy walking out with a 30 pack. If I'm drinking water for beer it's gonna be Coors Light. I will, however, drink Busch Light if it's offered to me...it's rude to turn down a free beer!:cheers:
Huh. I never got lost in Wisconsin, I could always follow the trails of Milwaukee's Best cans back to the border.
 
Back
Top