Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[SS396driver]

They spray-foamed our old work shop about 4 years ago after 40 years of working in the cold. It worked out fantastic.

I had the house in the Catskills attic spray foamed it helped tremendously. But the price wasn’t very budget friendly. I can just imagine doing the whole building

 

[SS396driver]

My rental had R3 rock wool in the walls . Attic had been re-insulated with batts . When I bought the house I gutted one room at a time and put R15 in the walls 2x4 construction .

Found a lot of beer cans Rheingold and a little nudist magazine from 1953

 

[Lionsfan]

My rental had R3 rock wool in the walls . Attic had been re-insulated with batts . When I bought the house I gutted one room at a time and put R15 in the walls 2x4 construction .

Found a lot of beer cans Rheingold and a little nudist magazine from 1953

Every boat in our fleet is sound-proofed with rock wool except for the newest one. I've stuffed and rolled in more of that **** than I ever care to remember.

 

[SS396driver]

I used Rockwool behind the woodstove when I remodeled . Steel studs rock wool cement backer board and half brick .

 

[abbott295]

I think I remember that we found bricks stacked in some of the walls of my parents’ old farmhouse when it was replaced in the early ‘70s. Presumably for insulation, maybe to block wind blowing through?

 

[Kodiak Kid]

Along with fire risks I would think the kerf waste would settle over time.

You gotta pack it when you put it in

 

[Kodiak Kid]

Cutting trees that are -arguably- 'arborist territory' is not your typical scrounge, I guess, but that's what I've been doing recently... Well, in the weekends... because I'm a weekend warrior . Which basically means only saturdays (no noise on sunday... it's a rule here). Firewood is a bit harder to come by nowadays, for free, and we chose to take on a challenge... with the help of a real 'Tirfor' (that's Tractel's brand name, from French 'tire fort', which means pull strongly) that I borrowed from a friend.
We = me and a buddy, who not only recently installed a stove, but was also seriously infected by the chainsaw virus, by me . We take on jobs together, with only the firewood as compensation. But we do clean up, which includes leaving branches on a pile... that is, in this case, slowly becoming huge.

Been there twice now, and only last time I had the 'Tirfor' available, which turned out to be a great tool... I'm definitely gonna buy one.
We got quite some firewood out of that location already, with way more work and wood to come.

Mostly used one of my 026's, and the 044 where needed... And had a lot of fun doing it, even though I let my buddy (with his 4 Husqvarna's ) do lots of things so he gets the chance to learn stuff, which is exactly what he wants.

Don't have a lot of pics to share though, there aren't much to begin with but also there were quite some people around and I'm principally not too fond of smearing people's faces all over the net... Including mine . Did a bit of blurring though...
The pics should make clear what I meant with the arborist thing, and also why I was a bit apprehensive to actually start and do this 'job'. Still consider it a hobby...

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Define "arborist territory". Looks good to me, but Im no arborist. There are only 20 licensed arborists in the state of Alaska and hundreds of tree service companies.

 

[chipper1]

You gotta pack it when you put it in

Then I'd think you would loose some of the r-value.
Up north of us they used it to insulate ice like Mike was saying.

 

[chipper1]

Got the first quote for my new shop 30x50x12 with two 10x10 roll up doors (may not go with roll up) two 24x36 windows one 36x80 man door . I also requested the Prodex R16 full insulation package. Upgraded to 145mph +43.5 PSF certified construction. Shipped and installed $26,064.00 plus my local sales tax

Will be this style View attachment 1231493

Sounds like a good price installed.

That’s not including the slab . I’ll be doing radiant heating in it too and I’ll have to see how thick for the slab as per town code . I’ll probably do two pours one for main area and one for the two pads for the two post lift so I don’t hit any of the heating pipe .

Will you put insulation under the slab, wish I would have. I know around here the guys who do radiant in the floor use insulation. I used heavy gauge poly under mine, just to keep the moisture down.
Mine slab is only 4" thick, except for the 3'x4' pads under the lift, that's 8" and has rebar in it. The rest is 6 sack with commercial fiber (longer than residential). They also used a power trowel on it and finished it to a very smooth finish, so smooth a squeegee works great on it, little slippery when wet. I sprayed it all with a concrete hardener, it holds the water in the concrete much longer. Which really pissed off the guy who was cutting it because he had to wait much longer than he thought/planned for to cut it, I'm sure the poly under it helped hold the water as well.
Will you put any drains in.
Wish I would have put water under to the main bay before the pour.

Stick built would be more than double maybe triple



This includes the Prodex insulation which is rather pricey . The insulation is close to 9k . But to install it correctly they need to add purlins to the building . The insulation needs a 1inch gap to the metal to achieve the R16 or it drops to like R5.
I could forgo it and install foam board or Spray foam but I really don’t think I’ll save much at all with 3 inch being so expensive . It’s 50-71 dollars a sheet then glue and tape and my time .

Going to get a quote from Versa tube but I really don’t think I want to install it myself

What happens to the condensation on the steel in that 1" gap?
I've installed enough insulation not to want to anytime soon, but I'll be doing more soon enough lol.
I only have equivalent to one of these stacks left, and most of that will be used to finish the main bay south wall and the rest of the east wall. The east wall gets 1.5" between the girts, already have r-19 between the studs. The south wall has 1.5 between the girts, I'll add another 1.75" and then r-13. Hope I have enough in there.

This is the bay door I'm building. Just got the last of the metal frame for the sides/ends tonight, hope to have it hung by two weekends from now. Should be starting to warm up by then lol.
4 inch thick metal roofing panels, they say they are R-32

Honestly, if I would have had the extra money I would have went with a company that included installation.
Would have saved me a ton of bs, and the shop would have been done a lot sooner.

Told my boy I wanted him to be able to see me struggle thru the process of building mine, so he wouldknow he could build whateverhe wants. He said what he learned was that he wants to make enough money so he doesn't have to . I don't blame him, but he'll learn about the realities of life soon enough.

 

[sundance]

You gotta pack it when you put it in

If you pack it the dead air space (aka insulating zone) is gone.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

If you pack it the dead air space (aka insulating zone) is gone.

Negative. Solid logs in log homes insulate quite well. Packed saw waste will insulate even better. No matter how hard you pack it. There will stihl be air in the mix.

 

[sundance]

Negative. Solid logs in log homes insulate quite well.

If you go as thick (wide) as those solid logs. They do quite well based on trapped air in the logs.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

No company that sells ammo will ship anything to Taxachusetts. Here they require outside vendors to have an ammunition permit to ship here. We are screwed for ordering ammo, powder, primers and most others items online. Many people just go out of State to buy supplies. Also having friends in nearby States helps too. Taxachusetts is now keeping records on all ammo purchases. Walmart stopped selling ammo here a few months ago. This State has gone to shat big time with our illustrious Governor. Her new gun restrictions were put in without any hearings. C U, Next Tuesday is what gunowners call her.

Road trip…
We shall see if scotus has any balls this term…

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Thought I'd post some pics of a nasty patch of wind fall I'm cleaning up for a customer. It's basically the fringe of a grove of Spruce on her property that borders an old logging clear cut. A lot of my neighbor's are having this problem ever since they logged the forest in tbis particular area. I really don't like dealing with big patches of blow down. It can be quite dangerous. Even if one has a lot of experience dealing with windfall. A lot of hidden dangers. One must look the entire patch over carefully before they begin to harvest and even then hazards can easily be overlooked or hidden. Not the most desirable scrounge for sure!

The customer is a young lady and has recently been widowed within the year. She dosent have much money, so I'm doing this job for her at a HUGE discount. She's very happy with the price and she is also giving me the majority of the wood. I truly feel for her loss and am greatful I can make her property a safer environment for her kids to play.

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With the exception of a few cuts I made the day before. This particular photo is basically a before pic of one end of the patch of wind fallen timber
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I will safely dispose of or tip the root wads back into place once the logs and tops are hauled out.

Cut safe, stay sharp and be aware.

Id have rented a trackhoe

 

[freeasaburt]

Define "arborist territory". Looks good to me, but Im no arborist. There are only 20 licensed arborists in the state of Alaska and hundreds of tree service companies.

That's why I said 'arguably . However, even if the risk factor is rather small, such trees are usually 'dismantled' top-to-bottom around here. Not the first time I fell a tree close to buildings, but closer than usual... An arborist would probably quote 300 - 600 per tree, so not a bad deal for the owners.

 

[chipper1]

Negative. Solid logs in log homes insulate quite well. Packed saw waste will insulate even better. No matter how hard you pack it. There will stihl be air in the mix.

Pine is approximately 1 R per inch, not even close to what most insulation is. If you have nothing else, it's better than nothing, but I'd say it's far from quite well.
Just looked it up, about 1R per inch.
https://safewarmdry.com/my-column-o...u compare the R,little or no thermal benefits.

The short walls on the lean-to area of my barn are only 4" with a 2x4 girt on them, I have 1.5" of foil faced isopoly, that's approximately R-9 based on 6 R per inch. Then I have another half inch standing upright, then a 2x4 wall with r-11. Overall that's 23 R for 7", that's on my thinnest wall. In that 12x24 I had no problem heating it with a 1500 watt electric heater, when the main is heated I should be able to easily heat it with 750-1000 watt, if I use electric.
I would have liked to have at least 3/8 on the whole exterior as a thermal break, and at least an inch under the concrete 4' from the perimeter, and an inch on the outside edge of the concrete inside the forms/skirt board. Unfortunately we/you can't always get what you want , but I try sometimes lol.

 

[SS396driver]

Sounds like a good price installed.

Will you put insulation under the slab, wish I would have. I know around here the guys who do radiant in the floor use insulation. I used heavy gauge poly under mine, just to keep the moisture down.
Mine slab is only 4" thick, except for the 3'x4' pads under the lift, that's 8" and has rebar in it. The rest is 6 sack with commercial fiber (longer than residential). They also used a power trowel on it and finished it to a very smooth finish, so smooth a squeegee works great on it, little slippery when wet. I sprayed it all with a concrete hardener, it holds the water in the concrete much longer. Which really pissed off the guy who was cutting it because he had to wait much longer than he thought/planned for to cut it, I'm sure the poly under it helped hold the water as well.
Will you put any drains in.
Wish I would have put water under to the main bay before the pour.

What happens to the condensation on the steel in that 1" gap?
I've installed enough insulation not to want to anytime soon, but I'll be doing more soon enough lol.
I only have equivalent to one of these stacks left, and most of that will be used to finish the main bay south wall and the rest of the east wall. The east wall gets 1.5" between the girts, already have r-19 between the studs. The south wall has 1.5 between the girts, I'll add another 1.75" and then r-13. Hope I have enough in there.
View attachment 1231824
This is the bay door I'm building. Just got the last of the metal frame for the sides/ends tonight, hope to have it hung by two weekends from now. Should be starting to warm up by then lol.
4 inch thick metal roofing panels, they say they are R-32
View attachment 1231831
View attachment 1231832

I will put insulation under and on the sides of the slab . Required here anyway as is a vapor barrier. They frown on any type of drains where autos or power equipment are stored .

The way Prodex works is it pretty much seals the inside like an envelope the warm air never gets to the metal to condensate. Also helps control radiant heat gain in summer . And the air circulates much like rafters in the house . You need the airspace for air to circulate against the roof .

 

[sean donato]

I will put insulation under and on the sides of the slab . Required here anyway as is a vapor barrier. They frown on any type of drains where autos or power equipment are stored .

The way Prodex works is it pretty much seals the inside like an envelope the warm air never gets to the metal to condensate. Also helps control radiant heat gain in summer . And the air circulates much like rafters in the house . You need the airspace for air to circulate against the roof .

is that just because you won't have eves to vent the roof? I left the gap more for fear of trapping moisture between the insulation and tin then for roof venting purposes. Put 20' of ridge vent in the peek of the roof and going with vented soffit all around. The wall cavitys do go up into the "attic" (not really an attic) space, so I guess they could follow the same principal.

 

[snobdds]

I will put insulation under and on the sides of the slab . Required here anyway as is a vapor barrier. They frown on any type of drains where autos or power equipment are stored .

The way Prodex works is it pretty much seals the inside like an envelope the warm air never gets to the metal to condensate. Also helps control radiant heat gain in summer . And the air circulates much like rafters in the house . You need the airspace for air to circulate against the roof .

I used some prodex in my cabin.

It's a cathedral ceiling and I needed a way to introduce venting, insulation and Vapor sealing all in one 8 inch cavity. At the top of the blocking between each rafter, I drilled 3 one inch holes. I then nailed 1x2 furring strips along the rafter to create a spacer for the 2 inch foam board to rest aginst creating an air gap. Then I cut prodex 4 inches wider than the rafter and used that to create an vapor and slight insulating value to make a totally sealed off rafter bay.

I don't use the cabin in the winter, so it works just fine for the times I do use it. It keeps it actually very warm and no hot air hits the roof. After a frost, the frost stays on the roof even with a hot fire going on in the inside.

I had no idea just how hard and labor intensive it was to insulate a cathedral correctly. I was going to just spray foam it, but after my experience using it on the floor, I wanted something different.

 

[sean donato]

Pine is approximately 1 R per inch, not even close to what most insulation is. If you have nothing else, it's better than nothing, but I'd say it's far from quite well.
Just looked it up, about 1R per inch.
https://safewarmdry.com/my-column-on-castanet/all-about-wood-chip-insulation/#:~:text=If you compare the R,little or no thermal benefits.
View attachment 1231863
The short walls on the lean-to area of my barn are only 4" with a 2x4 girt on them, I have 1.5" of foil faced isopoly, that's approximately R-9 based on 6 R per inch. Then I have another half inch standing upright, then a 2x4 wall with r-11. Overall that's 23 R for 7", that's on my thinnest wall. In that 12x24 I had no problem heating it with a 1500 watt electric heater, when the main is heated I should be able to easily heat it with 750-1000 watt, if I use electric.
I would have liked to have at least 3/8 on the whole exterior as a thermal break, and at least an inch under the concrete 4' from the perimeter, and an inch on the outside edge of the concrete inside the forms/skirt board. Unfortunately we/you can't always get what you want , but I try sometimes lol.

Shoot, I'm just hoping to get r20 till everything is finished up.